Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path - Day 6th - September 11, 2007

From Warham to Wiveton (20 km c.a)

Blackney 1,30 p.m.

Today I've already covered 11,5 km: more than half the daily stretch. Today is the shortest stage: about 20 km.

Yesterday was a tough day; not only I covered 27 km but I walked the last 4 in quick pace because it was getting late and I was afraid to loose my room. I arrived to the inn after 6,30 p.m.
Today, the breakfast was worthy the pub class. Even cotton napkins.
I set out late: half past ten. I've been chatting during breakfast with the other guests: two nice Scots, one from Edinburgh and the other from near Glasgow.
Apropos the quality of the inn, there was even a bathrobe.
Today, beside the blister, even the knees hurt. Probably walking fast with a heavy load.
Still fine weather: clouds and sun; the wind is less strong than yesterday. I took off the waterproof jacket. I'd like to wear the shorts but sometimes the wind blows a little freshly.
Along the coast I'm meeting a lot of walkers; from their gear, they seem circular walkers. The only long distance walker I've met thus far is the yesterday one and, perhaps, another one on the 3rd day along the Peddars Way.
The café where I'm writing at the moment is very nice. Board floor, light yellow walls and withe moulding. They serve food as well. I had a slice of nut cake and a coffee.



Cley next the Seas 8,00 p.m.

I'm in another splendid pub: Three Swallows. The local pub near my B&B in Wiveton was full so I had to walk to Cley (one more mile) but it is far better like this because actually it was a pub aspiring to be a restaurant (candles, etc.).
This is a genuine old pub: plank floor, tables side by side, etc.
Ordered "Venison Casserole" and one pint of bitter "Adams".
Sadly the smoked mackerel was finished.
I'm a little concerned by the return to the B&B in the night: no pavement and all my garments are black. Let's hope the napkin is light coloured: I'll use it as sign for the cars.
The waitress has just brought the casserole: a kind of stew with potatoes, carrots, broccoli and peas. I'm waiting a bit: it's very hot.
Blakney - where I stopped this afternoon and had a coffee - is a very beautiful town.
I climbed up to the hill where there is a fine medieval church.

The venison casserole was good only too much laurel and the vegetables - as a rule - only boiled. The potatoes, at least, take some gravy.
Here dogs seem to be always allowed in the pubs. Even the guests just beside me have got one which - as matter of fact - I had to disturb in order to sit down: the tables are very close and I wanted to stay with my back to the wall in order to look at the pub life; besides, the other way I would have been like secluded.
Before leaving the B&B I met the landlord: nice and handsome man, rather my age but with quite long hair.
I washed shirt and T-shirt, pressed into a towel and suspended outside the window (ah! those Italians!).

Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path - Day 5th - September 10, 2007

From Brancaster to Warham (27 km c.a.)

Wells-next-the-Sea 4,00 p.m.


I couldn't go any further: exhausted. I've walked more than 20 km. Still 6 km to the B&B. Let's hope the little train from here (the beginning of The Bank: National Grid Reference TF 915 455) to the city centre is working.
At the beginning (NGR: TF 858 459) of the big dune after Burnham Overy Staithe I lost the track.
No sign post where to turn right. I wandered a little while and then I entered the wood that, spotted on the map, I used as a reference. From the wood I could find the track again.
From Holkham Gap, instead of sticking to the National Trail, following the suggestion of a nice Welsh Walker, I went to Wells along the beach turning around the West Sands and rejoining the official track just here at the parking.

Since I got to the coast, differently than along the Peddars Way - where I encountered very few people, here I'm meeting plenty of them with whom I often stop to chat. All pretty well-disposed towards walkers.
The most amazing meeting was this morning while I was looking for the track at Burnham Deepdale. Suddenly I saw a walker around 70, apparently not that firm in his legs. Wearing ordinary shoes and old garments and carrying an old and queer rucksack slanting on one side.
Holding one banana and a map in one hand and an old hand made staff with a strap in the other one.
He too was walking the Peddars Way and the Coast Path. On his rucksack there were stitched a lot of National Trail Badges. He told me he couldn't remember how many he had walked of. Probably a score. He was from Scarborough. We walked a little while together then I lost him when I stopped to put on something more warm because the sudden North gale.
By the way my Millet Cap revealed providential. The weather is wonderful today as well but a cold and strong gale blows from the North. I've been wearing almost all day trousers, shirt, waterproof jacket and cap.

Warham 8,00 p.m.

I'm sitting at the bar of the Three Horseshoes Inn (National Grid Reference TF 943 416). Fantastic! Everything hundreds of years old. Old wood everywhere. As a matter of fact it is rightly awarded by the National Inventory of Historic Pubs. One believes to be in Fielding times. The bar is even nicer than the restaurant lounge: convivial and charming families; even the dog seems from the 18th century.
The food is traditional English. No search of originality at any cost as it is the norm today.
Such a place is unbelievable in Italy.
It one of the aspects of Britain I love the most: the sticking to the tradition (not in conservative way); I mean not throwing away the good things for new ones at any cost.
It is really the most beautiful and genuine place I've found thus far in Britain and, probably, anywhere else.
The family near me has got a nice hairy light honey coloured dog.
I got a pint of local Norfolk ale and ordered Ham and lentils soup and Local crab salad.
In the restaurant lounge there is a cast iron oven.
My room to is pretty beautiful too: lot of wood; genuine and old. Even the details: knobs, mouldings, and so on.
I need to wait because the soup is burning. By the way I've been served with a brioche shaped bread: delicious!
The today trip seemed endless; it should have been 24/25 km but, because I lost the track, I've actually covered more than 27 km.

Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path - Day 4th - September 9, 2007

From Sedgeford to Brancaster (22 km c.a.)

Gore Point 1,50 p.m.

It's now one hour since I stopped on the beach opposite Gore Point (National Grid Reference TF 706 448). I installed myself on top of the dune just on the spot where there is a descent to the beach. After my meager lunch I went down to the waterline and walked some time with the water up to the knees. The sea was warm and I could have swum. But nobody was bathing; maybe it's dangerous; undertow?
The weather is splendid; the landscape vast and unspoiled; I was so impressed and moved that my eyes watered.
Mrs. Frost breakfast (Sedgeford) was delicious; the best thus far. Home made jams; fine and complete china breakfast set; and - a touch of refined kindness - a bowl of strawberries and raspberries freshly plucked from Mrs. Frost garden.
As I had imagined, the track I noticed in the map is public (confirmed by Mr. Frost). So, instead of coming back to Fring Cross, I took the road for Ringstead and then the first on the right which, by the way, is a bridleway. So I could rejoin the Peddars Way higher than Sedgeford.
Fresh weather but wonderfully clear. Taken off the shirt. The trail went up and down up to Ringstead. Before entering the village I met a gentleman walking with his dog: a very cheerful and agreeable creature. A female of Labrador which lapped me friendly.
Ringstead is a pretty nice village. I bought some apples and visited the medieval church.

Less than a mile after Ringstead I caught - at last - the first sight of the North Sea; vision that accompanied me up to Holme beach.
The sea, the fine weather and the less hurting blister (thanks to the plaster kindly provided by Mrs. Frost) have contributed to boost my morale.
But now it's about time I set out if I don't want to pass the night on the beach.


4,40 p.m.

Halt in the inland section of the trail (National Grid Reference 745 420): I was exhausted and my back hurts a lot. It's vital to have less load!
After Thornham, on the road to Crosely, I was afraid to have missed the track on the left and got lost: I'm not yet used to the 50,000 maps.
From here to Brancaster (the stage goal) there are exactly 4 km (National Trail signpost).


7,00 p.m.

Got to Brancaster at 5,45 p.m. Waited 6,00 for the Inn's opening.
I'm not quite happy with the Ship Inn; no value for money (£55): lot of shabby details. Its advantages are en suite shower and wc and laying right on the trail.
Made a little washing: 4 sock pairs and one pants. Wrung well and then rolled up in a towel for a quarter of an hour. If it works (dried tomorrow) it shows that it's possible to further reduce the load: instead of 6 socks and 5 pants only 3 of each (one up, one to wash in the evening and one spear for emergency).
Anyway even the rucksack should be probably be replaced. Too heavy and need to take my measures before choosing a new one.
Could try reselling the present one by eBay.
While waiting the inn's opening received an SMS from Chantal which I answered to.

8,20 p.m.

Went down in the dining room. I had just the time to make the last order. Another unpleasant detail: the outside board says until 9,30 on Sundays. Perhaps it refers only to the bar.
Ordered choosing from the board: haddock (don't remember how) and boiled potatoes.
Got one pint of Abbot ale. The best tasted thus far.
After the seaside halt the trip has been pretty hard.
It seems impossible but I got sun burnt on the forearms, neck and legs. I'm feeling like feverish but, as I have never felt cold, it must due to the sun.
I've checked carefully, tomorrow - even cutting after Wells - it's the longest stretch of the whole hike.

9,30 p.m.

The haddock was deep fried; luckily I could remove the batter, dripping nauseating oil as frequently happens in Britain. If I had known I'd have had the plaice fingers, at least cheaper.
It could be a good idea not to dine: an English breakfast values for two meals.
A small snack would be enough: just to not drinking the beer with empty stomach.
The Inn closes at 10,00 even the access to the rooms so I must go to find a telephone for calling my mother.

Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path - Day 3rd - September 8, 2007

From Castle Acre to Sedgeford (23 km c.a.)

6,30 a.m.

I can't sleep any longer. Anyway I've slept quite well and gone to bed rather early.
I asked to have breakfast at 7,45 so, while I'm waiting, I take the opportunity for writing my journal.
Happily, this morning no headache at all!
The weather is cloudy but, if it's like yesterday, it should clear up and warm up as well. Anyway for walking better cold than hot so long as it doesn't rain.
The shirt and t-shirt I washed yesterday dried up fine notwithstanding the lack of fresh air (extremely tiny window).
I'm opening a new section in my notebook: Lessons learned and how to improve the next hike.

10,45 a.m

First stop of the day (National Grid Reference TF 783 223).
I've covered c.a. 8 km (nearly 1/3rd of the daily stage).
I'm a little worried about the blister; it broke out and it's hurting a lot. Let's hope it won't get infected.
The grass was so wet that the moist entered the shoes which now are quite damp as well as the socks.
Can't understand, during the Cotswold walking last July, they seemed waterproof. One more reason to change them for a lighter footwear (maybe with overshoes).
The rucksack seems more comfortable today. It's a question of adjustment in relation to the barycenter. I moved it up a bit and it works better.
Here the trail is a small grass path bordered by hedges and big trees. On the right there are cultivated fields and on the left meadows with horses.
The weather is cloudy again. Anyway the shorts are perfect for this weather even if on early morning it's a little fresh.

1,00 p.m.

Lunch halt (National Grid Reference TF 762 274).

I've just crossed the higher point of the Peddars Way: 92 m. marked by an Ordnance Survey triangulation point.The wind begins to blow: I had to put on the shirt again.
The emergency blanket is very useful for isolating the dampness when sitting or lay down.
The maps shows 11 km to the goal: so I'm further than half way.

4,00 p.m.

Last stop of the stage (National Grid Reference TF 740 330).
No more than 5 km to Sedgeford.

Sedgeford, 7,15 p.m.

I'm resting a little lying on the bed of my chamber while waiting for dinner time (reserved at the local pub for 8,30 p.m.).
B&B is very nice and fine charming people are its tenants: Mr. and Mrs. Frost (but not cold at all). Typical English house with a lot of objects.
The pain caused by the blister makes one to walk unnaturally and this - in its turn - causes pain to the ankle. I need to take some more Rhus.

Sedgeford, 8,30 p.m.

I'm in the local pub: very nice and typical. Unfortunately, as my place was already reserved by Mrs. Frost, I couldn't take place at the bar which I prefer, being less formal, more genuine and cheaper (not so sure of this: can't see a real separation between the two areas).
The village is very small and scattered; no real center.
Unfortunately the cell phone hasn't got any connection and the only public telephone is out of order. I wouldn't like Chantal worried about my silence.
This evening I've overdone it: got a whole pint instead than half one. Got a Norfolk ale: stronger the the ordinary bitter.
I ordered steak and ale pie: something really typical.
The weather has changed: very damp now; but I don't think because the rain.
I realizing that the beer is stronger than the ordinary bitter!
The waitress didn't look like native. Probably from Eastern Europe. Tall and slender. Quite nice.

Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path - Day 2nd - September 7, 2007

From Watton to Castle Acre (25 km c.a)

10,40 a.m.

First break: just a little bit before Houghton Carr (National Grid Reference: TF 861 050).

Woke up with headache and not yet over. Moreover, went to sleep very late because watched, till late, the TV documentary on Pavarotti.
Breakfasted without appetite because headache; didn't have beans nor sausages.
Earlier in the morning the sky was forecast and the air fresh; now the weather is fine.
This first pause (where I'm writing at the moment) comes after 2 hours walk (set out from Watton at 8,37 a.m.).
I've entered a freshly cut field through a broken hedge to find a quiet spot: thus far the trail has run on the very road. Only between Watton and Little Kressingham the trail was partially behind the hedge on the brim of fields and meadows. The traffic was intense and the noise disturbing.
From Kressingam to here one has to walk directly on a narrow road minding the motor vehicles (happily I counted no more than five).
Compared to yesterday the landscape has changed; no more woods but cultivated fields (mostly cereals and hay). But there are still squirrels (crossing the road) and pheasants.
Just now, one is repeating its cry at the bottom of the field before me.
I've started to take Rhus because I'm feeling some pain like inflammation.

1,30 p.m.

Snack stop: (National Grid Reference: TF 849 085).

Here the trail is bordered on both sides by hedges and scattered big trees.
Before North Pickenham it was so warm that I was obliged to take off the shirt and put on the sun hat.
The headache had decreased but now is getting fairly strong again (the food?).
Since this morning I've walked 14,5 km. Now I can slack down: only 9 km left to the stage (Castle Acre).


3,30 p.m.

I've been obliged to stop again for a little rest. I was exhausted. Still 5 km to Castle Acre (National Grid Reference: TF 825 125).
It's really hot. Water finished. Headache almost ceased but don't know whether I will eat at the pub this evening. If I find a grocer I'll get some cucumber, cheese and pear and after eating I'll go to have a beer at the pub.

Castle Acre, evening

Nowhere for buying food so I'm going to dine in one of the two local pubs.
The village is nice. There is a remarkable old gate (in flintstone), a medieval church with its churchyard just facing the B&B. There are also remnants of a castle and a priory.
Before entering the village (by the Peddars Way) one crosses a stream through a wooden foot-bridge. The stream seems quite clean; a child was bathing in.


The B&B (Willow Cottage) - nice and clean - is located in a traditional old flintstone house.

I was afraid to not being able to arrive at Castle Acre. I got a blister to a left foot toe. Let's hope for tomorrow: 26 km stretch!
According to the pedometer today I've walked 25 km.
Tomorrow there is a pretty solitary stretch. There is also the appeal of catching - perhaps - a glimpse of the sea (The Wash).

Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path - Day 1st - September 6, 2007

From Knettishall Heath to Watton (29 km)

Thetford, 9 a.m.

I'm waiting for the taxi. I've slept quite badly: an upstairs guest - probably with prostate troubles - has been getting up and down the stairs in order to go to the toilet, which is just next my room; I was waken up each time because the noise, particularly strong because the wooden stairs and the thin panelings.
The breakfast, although copious, was low quality. Consistent with the b&b.

Earlier, the weather was totally clear but now it is becoming cloudy; I've worn the shorts anyway; let's try.

9,15 a.m.

Start walking the trail (Knettissham Heath).

11,30 a.m.

First break: Roudham Heath wood (National Grid Reference: TL 931 880).
Pain to the right hip.
The pedometer marks 5.4 miles. I think it is increasing a bit, even if I reduced the pace form 75 to 74 cm. I started the trail at 9,15 so I've walked 2 hours considering the short stops (footwear adjustment, urinations, detour to take a look at Brettenham Heath information board, etc.).
Thus far the environment has been mainly woodland (red pines, birches and beeches) with some openings on meadows, cultivated fields and heathland.
Often a squirrel crosses the path quite close or a pheasant (partridge?) flies away scared. Fens and mushrooms everywhere.
At a certain point the trail skirts an open field pig-breeding. I was amazed to see them free, with plenty of space. Each one has its individual shelter (vaulted corrugated iron) with water pump.
The shorts are perfect for walking in this wather but I need to get polyamide ones for next trip (because the sweat). I'm wearing T-shirt and a shirt; the latter is even superfluous.
At 11 a.m. I put on the shoes and start again.

1,20 p.m.

Snack stop near Woodcock Hill (National Grid Reference: TL 925 923).
I was getting quite tired and, particularly, tormented by hip pain.
The place is a beech and birch wood. While I'm eating, now and then, a squirrel crosses the trail.
All the region is full of flintstones; often cleft pebbles like that used for house building.
Thus far no long distance walker met; only an angler on the river Thet, a local walker with his dog and a biker.
Roughly I should be half way (of daily stretch).

3,50 p.m.

New stop. I can't go any further! Anyway I think that probably there are only 3 km to the goal: I'm just before Home Farm (National Grid Reference: TL 900 994).
Walking with the backpack is totally different than without it!
I've finished the water: it's about time I arrived.
I'm sitting with the back to an immense oak. Ahead a meadow with thickets on the background. The sky is so beautiful with its tiny clouds.

Watton, 6,30 p.m.

Arrived, at last! (5,30 approximately).
Luckily, the hotel (Hare & Barrel) serves dinner (up to 9). For the moment I'm not hungry. Now I'll have a little rest and then I'm going to walk to the town center to buy water and a phone card. I see whether I get hungry before 9.

Watton, 9,00 p.m.

I'm in the hotel bar, waiting for the food (jacked potatoes with cheese). I've just come back from the town center (4 km more) where I bought the water and called my mother. Chantal sent me an SMS which I answered to. I saw more than one person driving very fast; is the police doing something about?

The Start of the Journey

Introduction

In the previous posts I have been talking about choosing the trail (for my first experience) and the equipment I set up.
From now on I will be narrating the very trip I made. In fact I am merely transcribing (and translating) the diary I kept during the journey.

Going away

September 5, 2007

Airport (Ciampino - Rome) - Morning

The adventure has begun! I'm waiting to board. A bit tense and tired - I haven't slept well.

As a matter of fact, I discovered that I might have brought the rucksack into the cabin but, actually, I couldn't because I've brought a knife.

Next time I won't bring any knife. I'll buy a cheap one on-the-spot which I'll drop before flying home. So I'll be able to carry the rucksack in cabin and save a lot of time after landing.

Thetford (Norfolk) - Afternoon

Boarding and flight regular. I've been even able to catch the 12,40 National Express coach thus getting to Thetford around 2 PM. By the way, as "promised" in the web site, I got the "oversixty" discount. At last an advantage of getting old!

Thetford lies in a nice vast forests area while the Newmarket region, the coach passed before, is very green being one of the most important horse racing, training and breeding center.

As soon as I alighted in Thetford I asked for the nearest supermarket which was along the river quite near the bus station.
Bought water, roquefort cheese, cucumber and a bag of Kent apples, I went to a nice place along the river with banks. Unfortunately I discovered that I had forgotten the rice cakes when I left home. So I had my lunch without any cereal stuff.


I walked a little in the town which I found not particularly nice nor well kept.
I visited St Mary, the oldest church of the town, sadly abandoned and skirted by ugly flats.
On the contrary, the priory remnants are very suggestive. The best preserved part is the Gatehouse.

Actually, now the knapsack with one liter water and the food, seems very heavy. I'm a little concerned for tomorrow.

The camera signalizes already low battery! I'm writing these notes while waiting for the opening of the b&b at 6 PM. I've still one hour ahead. A Canadian goose is repeating its cry.

Thetford (Norfolk) - Evening

The b&b is modest but clean (The Pink Cottage, 43 Magdalen St. - £25,00). Shower and toilet on the landing.
Dinner at Black Horse pub, just opposite the b&b.
Roasted lamb with potatoes (boiled and mashed), vegetables (cauliflower, broccoli and leeks). The gravy is served in an eatable container. Reasonable price: £10.
The b&b lady has kindly booked a taxi for the morning (no public transports to the start of the Peddars Way).
After dinner a short walk in the town. The weather is mild. The traditional houses are built with flint pebbles, most halved. The edges are very sharp. It's the first time I see flint stones; I understand now how they were able to make knives with and why it was so precious.
My mother called me but, sadly, I was obliged to cut short because the high roaming rates. I'll call her tomorrow evening from a public phone.

Why Peddars Way

In my last post I told why I made my first long distance walk in England.
In the present one I am going to explain how I chose the Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path among the numerous trails of Britain.

Being at my first experience I focused on the National Trails because, as I explained in the previous post, I could get a great help from the official web site and the related guide books.

The National Trail offers a set of 14 trails, actually covering almost the whole of England and Wales. From Cornwall to the Border.

Although in the beginning I was a little puzzled by such a wide choice, my fascination for the Ocean and the Celtic world lured me toward the Penbrokeshire Coast Path and the (Cornwall section of the) South West Coast Path. So I bought the relevant (National Trail) guides and I started to plan the adventure.

I intended to set out in the late spring of 2006 but, unfortunately, I was obliged to defer because my full mobility was impaired by a sudden attack of periarthritis which lasted until the beginning of the present year.

In the mean time I had the opportunity to better evaluate the options. I realized that the Ocean trails were probably a too challenging choice for a beginner: length, climate, gradient, distance from London airports, etc.

So I got back to the other trails and, after many cogitations, in the end I made up my mind and chose the Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path.

What features were determinant? Well, there were many of them:

• Length: 150 km may be easily covered in 7 days at the rate of an average 22 km per stage. For my first experience I didn't want to stay more than one week nor exceed 25 km per stage.
• Accommodation: available within 25 km from each stage.
• Climate: East Anglia is relatively dry. I was a little scared by the frequent rains and strong winds of the western coasts.
• Gradient: I wasn't quite sure to be capable to walk 25 km per day with a rucksack on steep paths. Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path are rather flat.
• How to get there: the trail is easily reachable from Stansted Airport.

Furthermore, beside the previous practical issues, the image of the Peddars Way - as it had crystallized in my mind - radiated a mysterious atmosphere of timelessness and secludedness which enchanted me.

So, during the summer I planned the trip (for the second week of September) and - at last - I booked the flight and reserved the accommodations.

In the next post I am going to bore my gentle reader with the details about the gear I was equipped with when I set out for the hike.