Wednesday, January 16, 2008

Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path - Day 4th - September 9, 2007

From Sedgeford to Brancaster (22 km c.a.)

Gore Point 1,50 p.m.

It's now one hour since I stopped on the beach opposite Gore Point (National Grid Reference TF 706 448). I installed myself on top of the dune just on the spot where there is a descent to the beach. After my meager lunch I went down to the waterline and walked some time with the water up to the knees. The sea was warm and I could have swum. But nobody was bathing; maybe it's dangerous; undertow?
The weather is splendid; the landscape vast and unspoiled; I was so impressed and moved that my eyes watered.
Mrs. Frost breakfast (Sedgeford) was delicious; the best thus far. Home made jams; fine and complete china breakfast set; and - a touch of refined kindness - a bowl of strawberries and raspberries freshly plucked from Mrs. Frost garden.
As I had imagined, the track I noticed in the map is public (confirmed by Mr. Frost). So, instead of coming back to Fring Cross, I took the road for Ringstead and then the first on the right which, by the way, is a bridleway. So I could rejoin the Peddars Way higher than Sedgeford.
Fresh weather but wonderfully clear. Taken off the shirt. The trail went up and down up to Ringstead. Before entering the village I met a gentleman walking with his dog: a very cheerful and agreeable creature. A female of Labrador which lapped me friendly.
Ringstead is a pretty nice village. I bought some apples and visited the medieval church.

Less than a mile after Ringstead I caught - at last - the first sight of the North Sea; vision that accompanied me up to Holme beach.
The sea, the fine weather and the less hurting blister (thanks to the plaster kindly provided by Mrs. Frost) have contributed to boost my morale.
But now it's about time I set out if I don't want to pass the night on the beach.

4,40 p.m.

Halt in the inland section of the trail (National Grid Reference 745 420): I was exhausted and my back hurts a lot. It's vital to have less load!
After Thornham, on the road to Crosely, I was afraid to have missed the track on the left and got lost: I'm not yet used to the 50,000 maps.
From here to Brancaster (the stage goal) there are exactly 4 km (National Trail signpost).

7,00 p.m.

Got to Brancaster at 5,45 p.m. Waited 6,00 for the Inn's opening.
I'm not quite happy with the Ship Inn; no value for money (£55): lot of shabby details. Its advantages are en suite shower and wc and laying right on the trail.
Made a little washing: 4 sock pairs and one pants. Wrung well and then rolled up in a towel for a quarter of an hour. If it works (dried tomorrow) it shows that it's possible to further reduce the load: instead of 6 socks and 5 pants only 3 of each (one up, one to wash in the evening and one spear for emergency).
Anyway even the rucksack should be probably be replaced. Too heavy and need to take my measures before choosing a new one.
Could try reselling the present one by eBay.
While waiting the inn's opening received an SMS from Chantal which I answered to.

8,20 p.m.

Went down in the dining room. I had just the time to make the last order. Another unpleasant detail: the outside board says until 9,30 on Sundays. Perhaps it refers only to the bar.
Ordered choosing from the board: haddock (don't remember how) and boiled potatoes.
Got one pint of Abbot ale. The best tasted thus far.
After the seaside halt the trip has been pretty hard.
It seems impossible but I got sun burnt on the forearms, neck and legs. I'm feeling like feverish but, as I have never felt cold, it must due to the sun.
I've checked carefully, tomorrow - even cutting after Wells - it's the longest stretch of the whole hike.

9,30 p.m.

The haddock was deep fried; luckily I could remove the batter, dripping nauseating oil as frequently happens in Britain. If I had known I'd have had the plaice fingers, at least cheaper.
It could be a good idea not to dine: an English breakfast values for two meals.
A small snack would be enough: just to not drinking the beer with empty stomach.
The Inn closes at 10,00 even the access to the rooms so I must go to find a telephone for calling my mother.

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