Tuesday, January 22, 2008

Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path - The last stage (Day 7th - September 12, 2007)

From Wiveton to Kromer (22 km c.a)

Weybourne cliffs 12 a.m.

Halt on the cliffs in front of Weybourne (National Grid Reference TG 115 437).
Fantastic weather: shorts and T-shirt only.
Yesterday getting back to the B&B from the pub was a little bit frightful: very dark night, narrow road; couldn't see not even the the road borders (in order to get off in case of cars coming). I sillily forgot my torch!
Very good breakfast at Rosemede B&B.
It's ages since I haven't seen such a bright night sky with so many crisp stars: the Milky Way pretty clear and the Ursa Minor complete!
Still 4 km to Sheringham. In a few minutes I'm going to restart. I'll have a coffee there.

The goal at last: Cromer

I got to Cromer at quarter past 4 p.m. but not by the official trail: in Sheringham I lost the signposts and I found myself on the beach under the cliffs, without any way to go up. When I found a passage it was too farther on; if I had taken it I would have made a big detour: the trail bends inland after Sheringham.
Asked about the tide (high at 8 p.m.) I continued along the beach. The boots revealed providential: many pools 2 or 3 cm deep. But I'm still convinced that these are extreme cases (well there are also boggy tracks) and so a lighter footwear would be better. The choice has to be made also in function of the average kind of the trail.

In Sheringham I had a coffee and a slice of carrot cake: I really needed it. Sadly I couldn't rest: the coffee shop was in the shadow: as soon as one stops and is not in the sun it is quite cold, especially when there is a little wind.

Sheringham looks like the typical seaside town for retired people. I didn't fall in love with it.
Cromer is even worse: the typical seaside resort: bingos and fish and chips. Besides it is a little dismal, shabby houses...and even people.
England is surprising: in many places everything is harmonic while others are squalid.
Besides the weather is magnificent at the moment; what would be with a gray and rainy one.
Nobody at the B&B. I went to the bus station (which is actually a mere bus stop) and a person waiting for a bus told me that tickets are sold by the driver.The stop is within 50 m. from the B&B: I'll be able then to catch 9,15 for Norwich in order to take a look at the cathedral and then catch the coach arriving to the airport at 2,40 p.m. instead than the 4,40 one: too just.
I'm on the seaside; a little sun but when remaining still it's a little fresh.
Now I'll go back to the B&B in order to look whether there is somebody in.
The landlady was back. Nice. Coloured. My room is in the attic. For £2 supplement I asked for an en suite room but none available. It's o.k. as well: there is a basin in the room.
I took a shower at once. Nothing stirring at floor.
It's rather a business B&B; not a family one like in Wiveton yesterday. But quite o.k.: clean and functional. Only the TV is out of order. Maybe I made wrong manouvre. Breakfast is 8,30 but on my request the landlady is kindly willing to anticipate it at 8,00. I'd like to catch the 9,15 bus to Norwich. Luckily the stop is only 50 m.
Washed my shirt: I'll be able to travel back clean. Today I've perspired a lot and I've been wearing the shirt for a good moment (around Sheringham).
After the lunch on the cliffs I lengthened the rucksack shoulder straps (1 mark more than "N"): seems better.
Went out at 8,00 for supper. Not even one pub serving still some food! The only restaurant had already closed the orders as an other shabby pub I came across later. Not that I was that hungry but I didn't want to have a beer without something solid in. Eventually, when I was going to renounce and get back to my room, I had the idea to look for a sandwich in a petrol station. Got to sandwiches with tuna and fresh onions. No sure of the local custom, I didn't dare to bring my food into a pub so I ate it seated on a bench in front of the sea. Then I went to the pub that seemed the most genuine and got 1/2 pint of ale.
The pub too confirms the impression of squalor of this town felt as my first impression.
The pub is decaying and many guest laugh with the typical drunk laugh.
I'm getting asleep; I finish my beer and go to bed.

1 comment:

Ruth Livingstone said...

Really interested to read your blog. I am walking the Norfolk coastal path and plan to continue round the British coast. I am not so ambitious as you - only walking 8-12 miles a day.


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