From Chepstow to Gloucester

From 25th to 30th of April, together with my whole family, I walked about 70 km from Chepstow (Wales) to Gloucester (England).

From Chepstow to Monmouth we followed the Wye Valley Walk; often on woody tracks and, mainly, on the Wales side of the river.

At Monmouth we took the Wysis Way through the Forest of Dean and, finally, across the Gloucester country side before getting to Gloucester.

We were jolly lucky with the weather: fresh but often sunny and no rain at all.

The landscape was beautiful but, especially in Wales, not so well kept and clean  as in other part of British trails (e.g. Ridgeway, South Down Way, etc.).

The signposting of both trails is far from satisfactory.  In spite of my long distance walking experience, we lost the track from time to time.

Gear: no sensibly different from my ultra-light equipment of previous hikes without camping gear: 4.2 kg with food and 1 l. water.
 
Highlights: woods and forests, carpets of anemones, violets and bluebells (sadly not yet in full blossom), huge oak and yew trees, red kites; Tintern Abbey, Gloucester Cathedral.






Conclusion: I would rank this hike of average quality compared to my previous ones. One week later we could have enjoyed full blossom of bluebells.

A final word about Tintern Abbey: I was a little disappointed. But, as Proust so remarkably analyses: there's the result of the real world impact on the imagination constructions!

Look at the photos taken during the hike.

Some of the Ridgeway and Thames Path

I am just back from a five days stroll along the Ridgeway and the Thames Path.

This was a very special hike in the history of my long distance walking: I had the pleasure to walk with both my daughters (Héloïse 24 and Beatrice 20) and, moreover, the last two days (on flat terrain) with my wife Chantal.

We set out the 3d of August from the East end of the Ridgeway on Beacon Hill (Buckinghamshire). The third day we left the Ridgeway about two kilometers after Watlington (Oxfordshire), and through various footpaths, we arrived at Wallingford where we met my wife (60 km from the beginning of the hike).

The following day we took the Thames Path northwards all the four and, after staying at a B&B in Sutton Courtenay, we got the following day to Oxford (the last few km by bus): the end of our journey.

We had only one day of very bad weather with rather heavy rain all the day long. My Goretex trail shoes (Innov-8 Rocklight 318 GTX), although meant to be waterproof, were soaked after only two hours! I am wondering whether it could be possible to find a lightweight shoe really waterproof!

We enjoyed the Ridgeway: varied  landscapes and gorgeous beech woods where we caught sight of squirrels and red kites.

On the contrary, we didn't like so much the Thames Path (at least the stretch we walked). We found it quite monotonous.

GEAR

I can boast to have improved my quest for ultra light walking. My rucksack with food and 1l water was only 4 k.

I learned that, at least in such populated country as Buckinghamshire and Oxfordshire, I can further reduce the food to a minimum emergency ration.

In this hike I had previously reserved the accommodation for all the legs, so I didn't carry the mattress nor the tent pole and stakes although I brought the tent because it works as a poncho as well. This, saved me a kilo.

One last detail: my Murmur, an ultra light rucksack by Gossamer Gear, has got too long shoulder straps for my size (it is made in only one size). The designer is a tall American while I am a rather short Mediterranean.

So the sternum strap is too low and the weight doesn't distribute perfectly. I will then be obliged to make some modifications.

	Number in	Number	Weight	Total weight	Total weight
Item	Rucksack	Worn	per unit	Worn	in rucksack
Camera		1	121	121	0
Camera battery charger	1		101	0	101
Camera battery spare	1		15		15
Canteen	1		29		29
Cell phone		1	77	77	0
Cell phone battery charger	1		43	0	43
Cleenex	2	1	27	27	54
Cutlery	1		39		39
Documents (maps, accommodation, timetables, etc.)	1		139	0	139
Fleece light (Montane)	1		231		231
Fleece light Active (Montane)		1	257		257
Food (rice cakes, dried fruit, sesame crunch)	1		715		715
Hat		1	107	107	0
Holdall (A.M.K. Bivvy Compression Bag)	1		7		7
Jacket	1		421		421
Medicine	1		56		56
Notebook		1	32	32	0
Orthopaedic insoles	1		90	0	90
Pants	1	1	28	28	28
Pen		1	13	13	0
Poncho-Shelter	1		323	0	323
Power adapter	1		39	0	39
Rucksack (Gossamer Gear – Murmur)	1		202	0	202
Sewing kit	1		8	0	8
Shoes		1	636	636	0
Socks	1	1	78	78	78
T-shirt	0	1	134	134	0
T-shirt (in cotton for sleeping)	1	0	118	0	118
Thermometer-Compass		1	10	10	0
Toilet paper	1		44	0	44
Tooth brush	1		15	0	15
Torch		1	9	9	9
Walking trousers		1	374	374	0
Wallet		1	143	143	0
Water 1 l.	1		1,000	0	1,000
Total (in grams)				1,668	4,061

PROJECTS

I am thinking to embark, at the end of August, on an old project: walking from my home town (Città di Castello in Umbria) to Florence. I am studying the best route: otherwise than UK, Italy is a very poor country in public footpaths (see my very first post on this matter).

Wandering through Cheshire

Chester - B&W Houses

At last I am back again!

I have been silent for quite a long time. I usually set out for a long distance walk two times a year. Sadly, because various illnesses, I haven't been able to walk since Spring 2009.

A new (for me) way of walking

This last stroll has been quite different from the previous ones (note, by the way, the term "wandering" of the title): I have tried to shift the focus from the goal to the action or, better still, as the father of backpacking says:

For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move; to feel the needs and hitches of our life more nearly; to come down off this feather-bed of civilisation, and find the globe granite underfoot and strewn with cutting flints. [R.L. Stevenson, Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes].

In the previous hikes the end of the trail was my goal and, moreover, I was obliged to stick to the planned legs, being bound to the accommodations booked long time before.


In the end, I have found that that approach spoils somehow the pleasure of walking. So I decided that, first of all, I should get rid of the reservations constraint. Therefore I changed my gear in order to be able to camp anytime I couldn't or wouldn't spend the night at some accommodation.

I was determined, if not to camp out, at least to have the means of camping out in my possession; for there is nothing more harassing to an easy mind than the necessity of reaching shelter by dusk, and the hospitality of a village inn is not always to be reckoned sure by those who trudge on foot. [R.L. Stevenson, Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes].

Apart from the night I arrived from Italy, I didn't book any accommodation at all. So, I was able to change my route or to finish the leg as the whim took me.


In fact, I camped only once; the other ones I found some kind of accommodation.


The Gear

Obviously, this change of method and my quest for lightness, have driven me to modify my gear.

Shelter

Following the multifunctional ultralight approach, I didn't choose a tent (regardless of its lightness) but something that could also work as a waterproof: a cape-tent.

Gatewood Cape set up as a tent

Gatewood Cape set up as a cape

As the photos show I used the Gatewood Cape by Six Moon Designs which works as a tent and a rainproof cape as well, for less than 400 grams, pole and stakes included.
It resisted the rain but a lot of condensation during the night; I need to learn staking the front line for better ventilation.
On the whole I am happy with this gear and I will continue to use it.

Sleeping bag

I wanted to find something lighter than a traditional sleeping bag so I used Thermo-Lite 2.0 Bivy Sack by Adventure Medical Kits.
Very light (190 g.) but too much condensation. At 4 p.m. I was nearly wet.
So, for 265 g. more, I will shift to HighLite Sleeping Bag by Western Mountaineering (already ordered) rated to 2° C.
For summer and not mountain hikes, I will balance the weight dropping the second fleece I carried for sleeping.

Sleeping mat

I used Z-Lite, a closed-cell foam accordion-plying sleeping mat by Thermarest.
It provided also a back stiffener for JAM 2 rucksack by GoLite, which I had stripped of its back foam.
I am very happy with this mat: comfortable and incredibly isolating (even laid directly on damp forest ground).

Footwear

During the last two hikes (Pennines Way and South Downs Way) I wore mid Lowa Renegade boots. Absolutely waterproof and breathable but a bit too heavy (550 g. each).
So this time I used a lighter footwear (trail runner): Rocklite 318 GTX; very light (318 g. each), comfortable, high cushioning but less waterproof and breathable than Lowa Renegade.
I will nonetheless continue to use them unless hiking very wet tracks like Pennines or Scotland where I will put on Lowa again.

Miscellaneous

Waking up after a night in the cold and damp, one needs some warm beverage in order to get in good mood.
So, I carried a very light mug (Tibetan Titanium), solid fuel tablets and instant coffee. A rewarding weight: never enjoyed a hot coffee so much!

Short description of the hike

16 July 2010

S.U. Canal - Chester

From Chester to Bulkeley Hill, firstly along the Shropshire Union Canal then along the Sandstone Trail (23 km).

17 July 2010

From the Sandstone Trail

From Bulkeley Hill to Whitchurch, along the Sandstone Trail (20,5 km).

18 July 2010

Stuck in hotel (Whitchurch) waiting footwear and garments to dry!
I took a short-cutting footpath from the Sandstone Trail to Whitchrch, that, before getting to the town, ended in man high nettles and other weeds. There I fell head first into a knee deep dark slimy water of a ditch I hadn't seen because the tangle of weeds. I lost my glasses and I got to the town (trespassing a farm) all black smeared; a sort of alarming scarecrow! Luckily I found at once a basic hotel the landlord of which didn't fuss about my look.

19 July 2010

From Nantwhich (got there by train) to Winsford along the Weaver Way (24 km).

20 July 2010

FromWinsford to Northwich via Weaver Way (12 km).
From Northwhich to Delamere by bus.

Delamere Forest

From Delamere to Frodsham along the Sandstone Trail (14 km).

Conclusion

Honestly, the excitement of this hike came especially from the new approach (see above).
Delamere Forest is gorgeous, unfortunately I walked it under unrelenting heavy rain.
Canals are very interesting (locks, manoeuvring, etc.) and often quite lovely but, in the long run, they tend to be slightly monotonous.
Weaver Navigation between Northwich and Winsford is lovely but one must walk some miles in the ugly works area of the latter town.
Chester and Nantwich are pretty nice; the other towns I have seen in the county are colourless and, sometimes, even a little bleak. I think it depends of lack of old history or de-industrialization.
Lastly, with the exception of Chester, accommodation and refreshment along the trails are rather scanty.

South Downs Way

From the 6th to the 12th of April, I walked the South Downs Way from Winchester to Eastbourne.

The main novelty of this last hike is that I didn't do it solo but with my youngest daughter Beatrice.

Unfortunately, for lack of suitable prior training, we weren't fit enough. So, at the end of the 5th day we were so tired that we skipped the next leg (from Pyecombe to Lewes).

Apart from one whole misty day under heavy rain, we had always fine weather. Fresh but good for walking.

We met nice people and we stayed in beautiful inns and hospitable B&Bs.
As we advanced we were accompanied by the delightful song of skylarks and chaffinches.

I really don't know why but, in the end, I found the South Downs Way the less exciting of all the hikes I've done in Britain.

I took the opportunity of this last walking to improve the reduction of the gear weight.
I have gained 250 g. shifting from Ferrino Cumbre 35 l. rucksack to the Golite Jam2.
I found the latter less comfortable. But being frameless it needs something to stiffen it; e.g. a mattress which I didn't carry.
I gained some more grammes replacing the waterproof jacket and the rucksack cover by a poncho and a very light windproof.

Thus far I have always stayed in B&B or inns. In the future I would like to be more free and not to be bound to legs depending on accommodations booked longtime beforehand.
Therefore I am considering to carry a light camping gear: a poncho-tarp, a foam mattress and sleeping bag.
But, before embarking in a tough trek abroad (e.g. Highlands) I would like to do some experiments near home in order to stop easily in case something should go wrong.
So, next Autumn I would like to walk a section of the Apennines trail (Grande Escursione Appenninica) from the southern border of Tuscany to Florence.

As usually, I have taken some photos which are now available through the relevant links in the Trail Pictures section.

Pennine Way

I've just finished walking a section of the Pennine Way: about 100 km in 5 days.
My legs are still stiff and aching; I new it would have been tough or, at least, quite tougher than my previous hikes: Peddars Way and Pembrokeshire Coast Path.

It is for that very reason that I decided to do it as soon as possible: being over 62 my strength can but lessen.

Compared to the above mentioned hikes, I found the Pennine Way not only much tougher but pretty more difficult as well: route often hard to find, very boggy and even flooded paths.
I've got to add that, in order to reduce the number of days out, I stretched the legs to an average of 25/26 km; which on hills trails it revealed too tough for me.

Anyway, like the other hikes, I enjoyed this one very much and I'm quite happy to have done it.

Again I took a lot of pictures (more than 500); if you are interested, please, take a look at the gallery top-right. They are arrayed by leg.

In contrast to the other hikes I did, Pennine Way was also more "adventurous". Let me just recount some of the main relevant events.

In the afternoon of the first leg (Hebden Bridge - Cowling), when I was going down Ickornshaw Moor, my knees began to hurt so acutely that I couldn't even ply them and I was obliged to descend the hill walking sideways and quite slowly.
I was so exhausted that I was unable to find the track which, as a matter of fact, was not easy in the least. In that area, as rather often along the Pennine Way, the track is actually unmarked and the rare traces of other walkers were deleted by the water flowing everywhere after the last August heavy rains. The ground was so boggy and wet that one had to mind carefully each step.
The pain to the knees was due particularly to the lack of prior training: August having been too hot at home. The general exhaustion was the result also of a too long first day on the hills (26 km plus 2 more because lost track detours) and of a beginning of dehydratation (I had sweated a lot wearing waterproof vest and trousers because the heavy rain ).

In short, as the day was starting to wear away, I began to fear of passing the night on the moor wrapped up in my safety blanket!

Luckily Mike, an Irish walker living in Scotland, came up and was so kind as to help me walk up to the evening goal.
I am very grateful to Mike whom I met again several times in the following stages and I'm sorry that he couldn't end his journey because a severe blister.

While my other hikes were quite solitary, walking the Pennine Way was a pretty sociable event: I met several walkers some of them I became friend with. Beside Mike, already mentioned, I want to remember Steve and, particularly, Roger and his son Thomas who helped me to find the track I had lost over Malham Cove. Although I usually walked alone because difference of pace, I often met them again at the B&Bs and inns.

Actually, the Pennine Way is partly an "invention". I mean that beside traditional more or less clear trails there are places, especially on the moorlands, where often there is no path at all.
There, one has to track other walkers' traces or relay on points of references (when available) or use a compass.
Sometimes, while the Pennine Way is barely perceivable, one meets secondary paths definitely more distinct which lure astray.
It is just what happened during my first leg, when, climbing towards Clough Head Hill, I loosed the track taking the only visible path on the right which, actually, bears away from the Pennine Way to the parking near the 68 road.
It was my first luck to meet soon a jogger which told me how to get to the Pennine Way again.

On Stonesdale Moor the Pennine Way faded away again and it was only thanks to the road across the dale - the only point of reference - that I didn't totally get lost.
Later on, when the dusk was beginning to fall - making me rather anxious - the thin smoke column of Tan Hill Inn, appearing in the immense and void sea of moorlands, was to me like the shore vision for the seafarer. I think I will never forget that epiphany.

Again, during the last leg, on top of Cotherstone Moor, the Pennine Way vanished. Luckily the weather was clear and I was able to point to the reservoir on the bottom of the dale where, after a careful walking through high tussocky grasses, I rejoined the Pennine Way.

I won't mention the other minor track missing occurred during the trip.

ABOUT THE GEAR

When I gave back the soaking low walking boots I had used on Pembrokeshire I bought, partly with the refund, a pair of Lowa Renegade GTX Mid which I had read many positive reviews about.
I was puzzled whether to use them because their heels were too high for me, making my legs pain. I was almost decided to take the New Balance NB985 I used one year before in Norfolk which, although very comfortable from the point of view of the set, are poorly breathable and low.
I knew that the ground would be very wet and boggy so I rasped the Lowa heels in order to get a better set.
It proved to be a quite sensible choice: after three days of heavy rain and a week of walking on often flooded and very boggy paths, my feet remained always dry! With the New Balance I would have got my feet quite soaked.

On the windy and cold tops of the hills I realized that there is no need of a heavy fleece: in my next trip I will replace it with a second light fleece to wear, in case, over the other one. I will be able thus to spare some more weight and space.

My waterproof vest leaked around the right shoulder and, like the over-trousers, it is not breathable. This makes a lot of moisture climbing the hills: I am going to look for breathable waterproof garments; if they exits.

SOME LEARNED LESSONS

I must not start without a suitable preliminary training.

On hill trails I must limit each leg to a maximum of 20/22 km.

TIMELINE

September 5, 2008. Getting there

Flown from Rome-Cimpino to Liverpool. Got to Manchester by coach. Light lunch at the Soup Kitchen. Reached Hebden Bridge by train in the afternoon. Accommodation at the splendid 17th century old White Lion Hotel Inn.

September 6, 2008. From Hebden Bridge to Cowling 28 km (with detours)
Short visit to Hebden Bridge waiting for breakfast time.
Starded the walk under rain.
Lost track around Green Hill. Found again thanks to a jogger's help. Round 1 km detour.
Exhausted and painful knees (impossible to ply) on the afternoon over Ickorshaw Moor on flooded and boggy undistinguishable track. Got to Cowling thanks to Mike's help (Irish walker from Scotland).
Gone to bed without supper (too exhausted) at Susan & Sandy Black B&B: quite charming people.

September 7, 2008. From Cowling to Malham (by bus)

Need of rest. Got to Malham (planned stage) by busses (3). Warm soup at the local café. Checked-in at Beck Hall; nice B&B in an old building along the beck. Little walking to visit Janet's Foss and Gordon Scar (5 km). Dinner with a plate of vegetables at the local pub.


September 8, 2008. From Malham to Horton-in-Ribblesdale 23 km
Climbed Malham Cove where lost the track; found again thanks to Roger and Thomas. Climbed Fountains Fell (660 m.) under rain. Little trouble with cattle during snack halt. Climbed Pen-y-Ghent (694 m.) with rather fine weather. Got to Horton-in-Ribblesdale tired but not as in the first day. Crown Hotel very nice old inn where I had a drink with the other walkers already met: Mike, Steve, Roger and Thomas.

September 9, 2008. From Horton-in-Ribblesdale to Hardraw 24 km

Rain during half day. Climbed Dodd Fell (600 m.). Walked in thick mist during 3 hours: luckily clear track and clear weather again on the moor before Hawes where the way is trackable only looking carefully for recent traces of other walkers. Cake and Coffee in Hawes, nice town. Dinner with a bowl of chips and a bitter at the Dragon Hotel where I stayed: beautiful old inn whith fire in the bar and in breakfast lounge. Long chat with charming customers.

September 10, 2008. From Hardraw to Tan Hill 26 km

Fine weather all day. Climbed Great Shunner Fell (716 m. the highest of my trip). Met a lot of walkers, even a girl on solo. Coffee and cake at Keaton Hotel in Thwaite around 13:00. Very tired. Little anxiety on Stonesdale Moor where the path fades away. Bearing thanks to the road visible on the left. Got to Tan Hill a bit before dusk: quite relieved. Tan Hill Inn very nice old inn with fire and charming landlord; celtic music. Met Roger and Thomas for the last time being their trip end. Roger offerd me a whisky: very nice. I was alone in the bunk house; need to pass by the kitchen in order to get there. Windy and rainy night; little discouraged, almost made up my mind to give up the last leg.

September 11, 2008. From Tan Hill to Middleton in Teesdale 26 km

Poor breakfast; no cerals, nor toast, nor butter and jam either; only one mug of lukewarm coffee. But the very dark brew and no forecasted rain cheered me up and set forth.
Got the route alternative to the track along the beck: dangerous in bad wheather. Lot of grouses. Lost the track at Through-Heads; entered a farm court; climbed over a locked gate hurting the knees hopping down. Extremely tired all day long. Lost track on Cotherstone Moor; luckily good visibility so no need of compass: walked through the high grasses of the moor, bearing towards the reservoir in the bootom of the dale. Got to Middleton arond 6 p.m. Went to bed after hot shower, without supper: too tired. Brunswick House quite lovely and refined B&B; forniture and food as well. Middleton looks like a fine town too.

September 12, 2008. Going home

Smooth trip to Newcastle by bus and train. Went to Marks & Spencer to buy pure wool pullover for Chantal. Got to the airport very early: alas, too tired to visit Newcastle which looks like a really alive and charming city.

Again on why not long distance walking in Italy

Well, I should have written this post in January but I've been a bit lazy.
For Christmas, my brother Luca offered me, as a gift, a book remarkably apropos the present topic.
Namely it is "Di buon passo" by Andrea Bocconi; a kind of journal, telling the author's adventures backpacking through Tuscany and Umbria, hitting the springs of the two major Central Italy rivers: Arno and Tevere.
I roughly reckoned he might have walked about 400 km during his 12 days journey.

I can hardly compare his mode of walking with mine: he carried a rather heavy backpack and he often camped while I'm aiming lightness and halting only in b&b or inns.

But I'm not going to review the book which - by the way - is rather nice. What interest me there is that Andrea implicitly confirms some of the aspects which I mentioned in an earlier post where I explained why I won't undertake any journey on foot in Italy.
In particular he often was not able to access the path because illegally blocked off by bordering real estate owners or obstructed by thorns uncut long since for lack of maintenance.
In conclusion, it seems that the journey frequently proceeded on the roads, beside motor vehicles.

That's a pity but who can help? I don't think the situation is going to improve considering the unrelenting spreading of illegality (and concrete) in this country.

I'm consoling myself by the perspective that within two week short I'm starting the Pembrokeshire Coast Path walk.

But more about that in the upcoming posts where my gentle readers will be acquainted with sundry matters like gear improvement, athlete's foot and the journey story.

Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path - Day 6th - September 11, 2007

From Warham to Wiveton (20 km c.a)

Blackney 1,30 p.m.

Today I've already covered 11,5 km: more than half the daily stretch. Today is the shortest stage: about 20 km.

Yesterday was a tough day; not only I covered 27 km but I walked the last 4 in quick pace because it was getting late and I was afraid to loose my room. I arrived to the inn after 6,30 p.m.
Today, the breakfast was worthy the pub class. Even cotton napkins.
I set out late: half past ten. I've been chatting during breakfast with the other guests: two nice Scots, one from Edinburgh and the other from near Glasgow.
Apropos the quality of the inn, there was even a bathrobe.
Today, beside the blister, even the knees hurt. Probably walking fast with a heavy load.
Still fine weather: clouds and sun; the wind is less strong than yesterday. I took off the waterproof jacket. I'd like to wear the shorts but sometimes the wind blows a little freshly.
Along the coast I'm meeting a lot of walkers; from their gear, they seem circular walkers. The only long distance walker I've met thus far is the yesterday one and, perhaps, another one on the 3rd day along the Peddars Way.
The café where I'm writing at the moment is very nice. Board floor, light yellow walls and withe moulding. They serve food as well. I had a slice of nut cake and a coffee.



Cley next the Seas 8,00 p.m.

I'm in another splendid pub: Three Swallows. The local pub near my B&B in Wiveton was full so I had to walk to Cley (one more mile) but it is far better like this because actually it was a pub aspiring to be a restaurant (candles, etc.).
This is a genuine old pub: plank floor, tables side by side, etc.
Ordered "Venison Casserole" and one pint of bitter "Adams".
Sadly the smoked mackerel was finished.
I'm a little concerned by the return to the B&B in the night: no pavement and all my garments are black. Let's hope the napkin is light coloured: I'll use it as sign for the cars.
The waitress has just brought the casserole: a kind of stew with potatoes, carrots, broccoli and peas. I'm waiting a bit: it's very hot.
Blakney - where I stopped this afternoon and had a coffee - is a very beautiful town.
I climbed up to the hill where there is a fine medieval church.

The venison casserole was good only too much laurel and the vegetables - as a rule - only boiled. The potatoes, at least, take some gravy.
Here dogs seem to be always allowed in the pubs. Even the guests just beside me have got one which - as matter of fact - I had to disturb in order to sit down: the tables are very close and I wanted to stay with my back to the wall in order to look at the pub life; besides, the other way I would have been like secluded.
Before leaving the B&B I met the landlord: nice and handsome man, rather my age but with quite long hair.
I washed shirt and T-shirt, pressed into a towel and suspended outside the window (ah! those Italians!).

Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path - Day 5th - September 10, 2007

From Brancaster to Warham (27 km c.a.)

Wells-next-the-Sea 4,00 p.m.


I couldn't go any further: exhausted. I've walked more than 20 km. Still 6 km to the B&B. Let's hope the little train from here (the beginning of The Bank: National Grid Reference TF 915 455) to the city centre is working.
At the beginning (NGR: TF 858 459) of the big dune after Burnham Overy Staithe I lost the track.
No sign post where to turn right. I wandered a little while and then I entered the wood that, spotted on the map, I used as a reference. From the wood I could find the track again.
From Holkham Gap, instead of sticking to the National Trail, following the suggestion of a nice Welsh Walker, I went to Wells along the beach turning around the West Sands and rejoining the official track just here at the parking.

Since I got to the coast, differently than along the Peddars Way - where I encountered very few people, here I'm meeting plenty of them with whom I often stop to chat. All pretty well-disposed towards walkers.
The most amazing meeting was this morning while I was looking for the track at Burnham Deepdale. Suddenly I saw a walker around 70, apparently not that firm in his legs. Wearing ordinary shoes and old garments and carrying an old and queer rucksack slanting on one side.
Holding one banana and a map in one hand and an old hand made staff with a strap in the other one.
He too was walking the Peddars Way and the Coast Path. On his rucksack there were stitched a lot of National Trail Badges. He told me he couldn't remember how many he had walked of. Probably a score. He was from Scarborough. We walked a little while together then I lost him when I stopped to put on something more warm because the sudden North gale.
By the way my Millet Cap revealed providential. The weather is wonderful today as well but a cold and strong gale blows from the North. I've been wearing almost all day trousers, shirt, waterproof jacket and cap.

Warham 8,00 p.m.

I'm sitting at the bar of the Three Horseshoes Inn (National Grid Reference TF 943 416). Fantastic! Everything hundreds of years old. Old wood everywhere. As a matter of fact it is rightly awarded by the National Inventory of Historic Pubs. One believes to be in Fielding times. The bar is even nicer than the restaurant lounge: convivial and charming families; even the dog seems from the 18th century.
The food is traditional English. No search of originality at any cost as it is the norm today.
Such a place is unbelievable in Italy.
It one of the aspects of Britain I love the most: the sticking to the tradition (not in conservative way); I mean not throwing away the good things for new ones at any cost.
It is really the most beautiful and genuine place I've found thus far in Britain and, probably, anywhere else.
The family near me has got a nice hairy light honey coloured dog.
I got a pint of local Norfolk ale and ordered Ham and lentils soup and Local crab salad.
In the restaurant lounge there is a cast iron oven.
My room to is pretty beautiful too: lot of wood; genuine and old. Even the details: knobs, mouldings, and so on.
I need to wait because the soup is burning. By the way I've been served with a brioche shaped bread: delicious!
The today trip seemed endless; it should have been 24/25 km but, because I lost the track, I've actually covered more than 27 km.

Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path - Day 4th - September 9, 2007

From Sedgeford to Brancaster (22 km c.a.)

Gore Point 1,50 p.m.

It's now one hour since I stopped on the beach opposite Gore Point (National Grid Reference TF 706 448). I installed myself on top of the dune just on the spot where there is a descent to the beach. After my meager lunch I went down to the waterline and walked some time with the water up to the knees. The sea was warm and I could have swum. But nobody was bathing; maybe it's dangerous; undertow?
The weather is splendid; the landscape vast and unspoiled; I was so impressed and moved that my eyes watered.
Mrs. Frost breakfast (Sedgeford) was delicious; the best thus far. Home made jams; fine and complete china breakfast set; and - a touch of refined kindness - a bowl of strawberries and raspberries freshly plucked from Mrs. Frost garden.
As I had imagined, the track I noticed in the map is public (confirmed by Mr. Frost). So, instead of coming back to Fring Cross, I took the road for Ringstead and then the first on the right which, by the way, is a bridleway. So I could rejoin the Peddars Way higher than Sedgeford.
Fresh weather but wonderfully clear. Taken off the shirt. The trail went up and down up to Ringstead. Before entering the village I met a gentleman walking with his dog: a very cheerful and agreeable creature. A female of Labrador which lapped me friendly.
Ringstead is a pretty nice village. I bought some apples and visited the medieval church.

Less than a mile after Ringstead I caught - at last - the first sight of the North Sea; vision that accompanied me up to Holme beach.
The sea, the fine weather and the less hurting blister (thanks to the plaster kindly provided by Mrs. Frost) have contributed to boost my morale.
But now it's about time I set out if I don't want to pass the night on the beach.


4,40 p.m.

Halt in the inland section of the trail (National Grid Reference 745 420): I was exhausted and my back hurts a lot. It's vital to have less load!
After Thornham, on the road to Crosely, I was afraid to have missed the track on the left and got lost: I'm not yet used to the 50,000 maps.
From here to Brancaster (the stage goal) there are exactly 4 km (National Trail signpost).


7,00 p.m.

Got to Brancaster at 5,45 p.m. Waited 6,00 for the Inn's opening.
I'm not quite happy with the Ship Inn; no value for money (£55): lot of shabby details. Its advantages are en suite shower and wc and laying right on the trail.
Made a little washing: 4 sock pairs and one pants. Wrung well and then rolled up in a towel for a quarter of an hour. If it works (dried tomorrow) it shows that it's possible to further reduce the load: instead of 6 socks and 5 pants only 3 of each (one up, one to wash in the evening and one spear for emergency).
Anyway even the rucksack should be probably be replaced. Too heavy and need to take my measures before choosing a new one.
Could try reselling the present one by eBay.
While waiting the inn's opening received an SMS from Chantal which I answered to.

8,20 p.m.

Went down in the dining room. I had just the time to make the last order. Another unpleasant detail: the outside board says until 9,30 on Sundays. Perhaps it refers only to the bar.
Ordered choosing from the board: haddock (don't remember how) and boiled potatoes.
Got one pint of Abbot ale. The best tasted thus far.
After the seaside halt the trip has been pretty hard.
It seems impossible but I got sun burnt on the forearms, neck and legs. I'm feeling like feverish but, as I have never felt cold, it must due to the sun.
I've checked carefully, tomorrow - even cutting after Wells - it's the longest stretch of the whole hike.

9,30 p.m.

The haddock was deep fried; luckily I could remove the batter, dripping nauseating oil as frequently happens in Britain. If I had known I'd have had the plaice fingers, at least cheaper.
It could be a good idea not to dine: an English breakfast values for two meals.
A small snack would be enough: just to not drinking the beer with empty stomach.
The Inn closes at 10,00 even the access to the rooms so I must go to find a telephone for calling my mother.

Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path - Day 3rd - September 8, 2007

From Castle Acre to Sedgeford (23 km c.a.)

6,30 a.m.

I can't sleep any longer. Anyway I've slept quite well and gone to bed rather early.
I asked to have breakfast at 7,45 so, while I'm waiting, I take the opportunity for writing my journal.
Happily, this morning no headache at all!
The weather is cloudy but, if it's like yesterday, it should clear up and warm up as well. Anyway for walking better cold than hot so long as it doesn't rain.
The shirt and t-shirt I washed yesterday dried up fine notwithstanding the lack of fresh air (extremely tiny window).
I'm opening a new section in my notebook: Lessons learned and how to improve the next hike.

10,45 a.m

First stop of the day (National Grid Reference TF 783 223).
I've covered c.a. 8 km (nearly 1/3rd of the daily stage).
I'm a little worried about the blister; it broke out and it's hurting a lot. Let's hope it won't get infected.
The grass was so wet that the moist entered the shoes which now are quite damp as well as the socks.
Can't understand, during the Cotswold walking last July, they seemed waterproof. One more reason to change them for a lighter footwear (maybe with overshoes).
The rucksack seems more comfortable today. It's a question of adjustment in relation to the barycenter. I moved it up a bit and it works better.
Here the trail is a small grass path bordered by hedges and big trees. On the right there are cultivated fields and on the left meadows with horses.
The weather is cloudy again. Anyway the shorts are perfect for this weather even if on early morning it's a little fresh.

1,00 p.m.

Lunch halt (National Grid Reference TF 762 274).

I've just crossed the higher point of the Peddars Way: 92 m. marked by an Ordnance Survey triangulation point.The wind begins to blow: I had to put on the shirt again.
The emergency blanket is very useful for isolating the dampness when sitting or lay down.
The maps shows 11 km to the goal: so I'm further than half way.

4,00 p.m.

Last stop of the stage (National Grid Reference TF 740 330).
No more than 5 km to Sedgeford.

Sedgeford, 7,15 p.m.

I'm resting a little lying on the bed of my chamber while waiting for dinner time (reserved at the local pub for 8,30 p.m.).
B&B is very nice and fine charming people are its tenants: Mr. and Mrs. Frost (but not cold at all). Typical English house with a lot of objects.
The pain caused by the blister makes one to walk unnaturally and this - in its turn - causes pain to the ankle. I need to take some more Rhus.

Sedgeford, 8,30 p.m.

I'm in the local pub: very nice and typical. Unfortunately, as my place was already reserved by Mrs. Frost, I couldn't take place at the bar which I prefer, being less formal, more genuine and cheaper (not so sure of this: can't see a real separation between the two areas).
The village is very small and scattered; no real center.
Unfortunately the cell phone hasn't got any connection and the only public telephone is out of order. I wouldn't like Chantal worried about my silence.
This evening I've overdone it: got a whole pint instead than half one. Got a Norfolk ale: stronger the the ordinary bitter.
I ordered steak and ale pie: something really typical.
The weather has changed: very damp now; but I don't think because the rain.
I realizing that the beer is stronger than the ordinary bitter!
The waitress didn't look like native. Probably from Eastern Europe. Tall and slender. Quite nice.

Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path - Day 2nd - September 7, 2007

From Watton to Castle Acre (25 km c.a)

10,40 a.m.

First break: just a little bit before Houghton Carr (National Grid Reference: TF 861 050).

Woke up with headache and not yet over. Moreover, went to sleep very late because watched, till late, the TV documentary on Pavarotti.
Breakfasted without appetite because headache; didn't have beans nor sausages.
Earlier in the morning the sky was forecast and the air fresh; now the weather is fine.
This first pause (where I'm writing at the moment) comes after 2 hours walk (set out from Watton at 8,37 a.m.).
I've entered a freshly cut field through a broken hedge to find a quiet spot: thus far the trail has run on the very road. Only between Watton and Little Kressingham the trail was partially behind the hedge on the brim of fields and meadows. The traffic was intense and the noise disturbing.
From Kressingam to here one has to walk directly on a narrow road minding the motor vehicles (happily I counted no more than five).
Compared to yesterday the landscape has changed; no more woods but cultivated fields (mostly cereals and hay). But there are still squirrels (crossing the road) and pheasants.
Just now, one is repeating its cry at the bottom of the field before me.
I've started to take Rhus because I'm feeling some pain like inflammation.

1,30 p.m.

Snack stop: (National Grid Reference: TF 849 085).

Here the trail is bordered on both sides by hedges and scattered big trees.
Before North Pickenham it was so warm that I was obliged to take off the shirt and put on the sun hat.
The headache had decreased but now is getting fairly strong again (the food?).
Since this morning I've walked 14,5 km. Now I can slack down: only 9 km left to the stage (Castle Acre).


3,30 p.m.

I've been obliged to stop again for a little rest. I was exhausted. Still 5 km to Castle Acre (National Grid Reference: TF 825 125).
It's really hot. Water finished. Headache almost ceased but don't know whether I will eat at the pub this evening. If I find a grocer I'll get some cucumber, cheese and pear and after eating I'll go to have a beer at the pub.

Castle Acre, evening

Nowhere for buying food so I'm going to dine in one of the two local pubs.
The village is nice. There is a remarkable old gate (in flintstone), a medieval church with its churchyard just facing the B&B. There are also remnants of a castle and a priory.
Before entering the village (by the Peddars Way) one crosses a stream through a wooden foot-bridge. The stream seems quite clean; a child was bathing in.


The B&B (Willow Cottage) - nice and clean - is located in a traditional old flintstone house.

I was afraid to not being able to arrive at Castle Acre. I got a blister to a left foot toe. Let's hope for tomorrow: 26 km stretch!
According to the pedometer today I've walked 25 km.
Tomorrow there is a pretty solitary stretch. There is also the appeal of catching - perhaps - a glimpse of the sea (The Wash).

Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path - Day 1st - September 6, 2007

From Knettishall Heath to Watton (29 km)

Thetford, 9 a.m.

I'm waiting for the taxi. I've slept quite badly: an upstairs guest - probably with prostate troubles - has been getting up and down the stairs in order to go to the toilet, which is just next my room; I was waken up each time because the noise, particularly strong because the wooden stairs and the thin panelings.
The breakfast, although copious, was low quality. Consistent with the b&b.

Earlier, the weather was totally clear but now it is becoming cloudy; I've worn the shorts anyway; let's try.

9,15 a.m.

Start walking the trail (Knettissham Heath).

11,30 a.m.

First break: Roudham Heath wood (National Grid Reference: TL 931 880).
Pain to the right hip.
The pedometer marks 5.4 miles. I think it is increasing a bit, even if I reduced the pace form 75 to 74 cm. I started the trail at 9,15 so I've walked 2 hours considering the short stops (footwear adjustment, urinations, detour to take a look at Brettenham Heath information board, etc.).
Thus far the environment has been mainly woodland (red pines, birches and beeches) with some openings on meadows, cultivated fields and heathland.
Often a squirrel crosses the path quite close or a pheasant (partridge?) flies away scared. Fens and mushrooms everywhere.
At a certain point the trail skirts an open field pig-breeding. I was amazed to see them free, with plenty of space. Each one has its individual shelter (vaulted corrugated iron) with water pump.
The shorts are perfect for walking in this wather but I need to get polyamide ones for next trip (because the sweat). I'm wearing T-shirt and a shirt; the latter is even superfluous.
At 11 a.m. I put on the shoes and start again.

1,20 p.m.

Snack stop near Woodcock Hill (National Grid Reference: TL 925 923).
I was getting quite tired and, particularly, tormented by hip pain.
The place is a beech and birch wood. While I'm eating, now and then, a squirrel crosses the trail.
All the region is full of flintstones; often cleft pebbles like that used for house building.
Thus far no long distance walker met; only an angler on the river Thet, a local walker with his dog and a biker.
Roughly I should be half way (of daily stretch).

3,50 p.m.

New stop. I can't go any further! Anyway I think that probably there are only 3 km to the goal: I'm just before Home Farm (National Grid Reference: TL 900 994).
Walking with the backpack is totally different than without it!
I've finished the water: it's about time I arrived.
I'm sitting with the back to an immense oak. Ahead a meadow with thickets on the background. The sky is so beautiful with its tiny clouds.

Watton, 6,30 p.m.

Arrived, at last! (5,30 approximately).
Luckily, the hotel (Hare & Barrel) serves dinner (up to 9). For the moment I'm not hungry. Now I'll have a little rest and then I'm going to walk to the town center to buy water and a phone card. I see whether I get hungry before 9.

Watton, 9,00 p.m.

I'm in the hotel bar, waiting for the food (jacked potatoes with cheese). I've just come back from the town center (4 km more) where I bought the water and called my mother. Chantal sent me an SMS which I answered to. I saw more than one person driving very fast; is the police doing something about?

Why Peddars Way

In my last post I told why I made my first long distance walk in England.
In the present one I am going to explain how I chose the Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path among the numerous trails of Britain.

Being at my first experience I focused on the National Trails because, as I explained in the previous post, I could get a great help from the official web site and the related guide books.

The National Trail offers a set of 14 trails, actually covering almost the whole of England and Wales. From Cornwall to the Border.

Although in the beginning I was a little puzzled by such a wide choice, my fascination for the Ocean and the Celtic world lured me toward the Penbrokeshire Coast Path and the (Cornwall section of the) South West Coast Path. So I bought the relevant (National Trail) guides and I started to plan the adventure.

I intended to set out in the late spring of 2006 but, unfortunately, I was obliged to defer because my full mobility was impaired by a sudden attack of periarthritis which lasted until the beginning of the present year.

In the mean time I had the opportunity to better evaluate the options. I realized that the Ocean trails were probably a too challenging choice for a beginner: length, climate, gradient, distance from London airports, etc.

So I got back to the other trails and, after many cogitations, in the end I made up my mind and chose the Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path.

What features were determinant? Well, there were many of them:

• Length: 150 km may be easily covered in 7 days at the rate of an average 22 km per stage. For my first experience I didn't want to stay more than one week nor exceed 25 km per stage.
• Accommodation: available within 25 km from each stage.
• Climate: East Anglia is relatively dry. I was a little scared by the frequent rains and strong winds of the western coasts.
• Gradient: I wasn't quite sure to be capable to walk 25 km per day with a rucksack on steep paths. Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path are rather flat.
• How to get there: the trail is easily reachable from Stansted Airport.

Furthermore, beside the previous practical issues, the image of the Peddars Way - as it had crystallized in my mind - radiated a mysterious atmosphere of timelessness and secludedness which enchanted me.

So, during the summer I planned the trip (for the second week of September) and - at last - I booked the flight and reserved the accommodations.

In the next post I am going to bore my gentle reader with the details about the gear I was equipped with when I set out for the hike.

Why England - Conclusion

To see no other verdure than its own;
To feel no other breezes than are blown
Through its tall woods with high romances blent

J. KEATS

In the last post I tried to explain why I didn't choose my home country (Italy) for my first long distance walking experience.
Today I am going to tell wherefore I preferred England to other nearer countries.

Probably there are many fine long distance walks in other European countries but, as far a I could understand exploring Internet, no other country offers like England (and Wales) such a rich choice of trails managed by an official organization (National Trail) providing - through a dedicated website and guide-books - a comprehensive support to walkers for planning their trips: maps, distances, accommodation, photo galleries, etc.

Nowhere else I have been able to find such a help which allowed me - absolute beginner - to choose the best fit trail and smoothly organize my trip.

Moreover what pleasant surprise when - perusing some maps of England - I discovered that, beside the 4,000 km covered by the 14 national trails, the whole country is reticulated by a grid of public footpaths allowing to actually go everywhere on foot.

Thus, practical motives were determinant in choosing England but this choice matched a preexistent inner inclination.

It is not that I don't like France or Germany but England has something undefinable which strikes a chord with me.

Well, how to say?

One almost magic aspect deals with the relative intactness of England: since medieval times - excepted some bombings in World War II - she has scarcely suffered from war destructions not in the least comparable to Germany or Italy. Actually it is the fire which has been the main ravager.
This aspect is also due to her inhabitants who generally don't throw away things just because they are out of fashion.
I have been fascinated by pubs where one expects to suddenly behold Tom Jones or Falstaff.
Even the very fences or signposts are quite discreet in this country, barely impacting on the landscape.

I could resume my feelings saying that, walking in England, I rarely get a clashing sensation. My sharp aesthetic sensibility is seldom upset and I feel at peace.

In the next post I going to tell why I chose the Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path among the 14 national trails.