tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-80369339955081365552024-02-19T12:09:53.322+01:00Long Distance WalkingTo share my long distance walking experience, the lessons learned and the photos taken...Sergio Baldellihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14895701664855290571noreply@blogger.comBlogger34125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8036933995508136555.post-72587910039173973112016-10-06T11:24:00.000+02:002016-10-06T11:24:55.150+02:00Farewell to long distance walking<div style="text-align: right;">
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">לַכֹּל זְמָן </span> </span></div>
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Yes, as the sage says, "<b>there is a time for everything</b>". And my time for long distance walking has run out.<br />
At 70 and with some health problems, as light the latter might be, I don't feel any more in embarking on long distance hikes; especially abroad.<br />
Already, during my last stroll a year ago in Portugal, I was obliged to skip some legs because I was unwell; it was a kind of warning. So, obtorto collo, I have reached the sad decision: "<b>farewell to long distance walking</b>".<br />
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I have enjoyed great moments in ten years of hiking. I only regret not having started earlier; but it was a kind of destiny; as I told in my very first post, I got the inspiration for long distance walking by a dream!<br />
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<b>Many thanks to all my gentle readers and plenty of nice hikes to any walker!</b><br />
<br />Sergio Baldellihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14895701664855290571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8036933995508136555.post-27895277203026287192015-10-24T23:13:00.000+02:002015-10-24T23:23:12.633+02:00A short hike along the Alentejo coast<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3q73gOPLu3hPJoqyRYFkMPGVilouozB6uYBanManrlPwAeF2KNnGC5mZUs8HP03OzV5ZMHFGts35nR-1J9OYebcVLfORSB7E6DI5csRgh43wkeUkmVR3nJ9_OpzygEFhlBWDVjQY8lb4/s1600/P_20151012_105554_SF.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3q73gOPLu3hPJoqyRYFkMPGVilouozB6uYBanManrlPwAeF2KNnGC5mZUs8HP03OzV5ZMHFGts35nR-1J9OYebcVLfORSB7E6DI5csRgh43wkeUkmVR3nJ9_OpzygEFhlBWDVjQY8lb4/s400/P_20151012_105554_SF.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
In these last years I have been learning the Portuguese language. Thus, in order to give a try to my new linguistic ability, I decided to embark on a long distance walking in Portugal.<br />
One week ago I went for the first time to Portugal where I visited Lisbon and walked along the splendid coast of Alentejo.<br />
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The Alentejo coast trail is a four legs hike of about 20 km a day.<br />
It is called "Fishermen's Trail" (<i>Trilho dos Pescadores</i>) and, with the "Historical Way" and some circular routes, it is part of the "Rota Vicentina", a recent project of a walking system in the region.<br />
The Fishermen's Trail lays along a gorgeous and unspoiled (protected area) coast of the Atlantic in southern Portugal.<br />
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The coast is mainly red sandstone around 60 meters over sea level. Sometimes the stone is also black or dark and stratified (like in Wales). But what is amazing is that on top of the cliffs (where one actually walks) there is a deep layer of sand dunes with the typical fragrant Mediterranean vegetation.<br />
In the last leg (coming from the South) there are also very long stretches on beaches. <br />
Between the end of leg villages there is definitely nothing; only savage nature!<br />
The villages are very nice: whitewashed houses, bright colour framed.<br />
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Unfortunately I was obliged to skip two legs because I wasn't well.<br />
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<b>Gear</b><br />
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Because the mild temperature I didn't carry a second fleece; neither did I carry shelter nor bedding, having booked ahead the relevant accommodations.<br />
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Thus, with 1.5 l of water and some reserve food I carried a scarce 4 kg rucksack.<br />
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<b> Highlights</b><br />
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The ocean breakers, the smell, Vila Nova de Milfontes<br />
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<br />Sergio Baldellihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14895701664855290571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8036933995508136555.post-84534944364969452482015-07-24T18:54:00.000+02:002015-07-24T23:06:07.561+02:00Hiking in the Isle of Arran<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I usually set out for linear walks and, in order to find accommodation at suitable leg distances, I avoid high season.<br />
Unfortunately this year I couldn't plan for a spring or early summer trip and I only had a free week in July at the last moment.<br />
So, beside camping every night (too bad for my age and Britain climate), a solution would be to walk in an area where public transport be available all day long.<br />
The Isle of Arran offers 3 buses lines covering most part of the island from early morning to late night. Fantastic.<br />
Moreover a few years ago I had planned to hike in Arran but, unfortunately, I was obliged to cancel my trip because a sudden illness.<br />
I was lucky to found a cheap weekly accommodation overlooking Whiting Bay in the south-east coast of the island.<br />
Arran is considered to be "Scotland in miniature": she features sea coasts, rivers, forests, moorlands and mountains. So I decided to dedicate my five days of walking to the different terrains there available.<br />
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<h4>
DAY ONE (July 16th)</h4>
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A tough walk along the pathless south-east coast from Whiting Bay to the hotel near Kildoan.<br />
Probably only 8 km but strenuous because very rough bouldery or pebbly terrain and Dipping Head to be negotiated at low tide.<br />
Gorgeous rocks, seen a seal and many sea birds, a short refreshing swim in the cold sea.<br />
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DAY TWO (July17th)</h4>
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An other tough and wet hike through forests and moorland from Whiting Bay to Lamlash.<br />
Firstly on roads and forest track to the Glenashdale Falls; then through pathless moorland (Cnoc Mòr) and forest (compass mandatory); finally forest track and road.<br />
Very demanding in the pathless section of forest because each step must be checked due to high layer of dead branches covered with moss.<br />
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DAY THREE (July 18th)</h4>
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A walk along the north-east coast from North Sannox to Lochranza.<br />
Mainly pebbly and rocky vague tracks.<br />
Gorgeous scenery and panorama of Kintire Peninsula, Firth of Clyde and Isle of Bute.<br />
Unfortunately second part walked in a hurry to catch the last bus.<br />
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DAY FOUR (July 19th)</h4>
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A tough climb from Sannox to the brow of Cioch na h-Oighe and back (7 km).<br />
My intention was to get to the top and then through the ridge gain Goat Fell from where to descend to Corrie on the coast.<br />
But, already exhausted by wet and rough partly pathless bracken and heather terrain, when I arrived to the steepest part of the mountain I couldn't find any passage to the top I could be able to climb, considering my fitness and mountaineering skill (very poor).<br />
So, a bit disappointed, I retraced my steps to the starting point.<br />
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DAY FIFTH (July 20th)</h4>
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A walk along the west coast from Blackwaterfoot to Machrie Bay with a detour inland to visit a stone circles site.<br />
Beautiful coast and megalithic monuments but partly spoiled by heavy rain all the day long.<br />
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CONCLUSION</h4>
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I enjoyed very much hiking in Arran but without the charm of the linearity of a real long distance walking.<br />
The terrain and the weather was very demanding. I must confess that I am beginning to be a little tired of the British rain and bogs. I am thinking about a long distance walk in a more mild area: Rota Vicentina in southern Portugal?<br />
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GEAR</h4>
As I was staying at the same place all the week I didn't have to carry all my normal gear so I had the advantage to walk extremely light: water, food, cutlery, poncho, fleece and jacket. A feather.<br />
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<br />Sergio Baldellihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14895701664855290571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8036933995508136555.post-18800456620297177912014-08-03T12:42:00.000+02:002014-08-03T12:42:00.730+02:00A walk in Devon<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikScCe-rgJrEPiE_jI-PKgxWuPCfgaMRodU4BMPG08FbPQwy4vDyFjFaQ4f1p9fWxFGr46QDdOJbV8PHxp6vzne6q7iissNvqzPFnvlec9w9bnseCWy87k1U1EixKZKFKAMN5Wj1dNAdc/s1600/DSC02028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikScCe-rgJrEPiE_jI-PKgxWuPCfgaMRodU4BMPG08FbPQwy4vDyFjFaQ4f1p9fWxFGr46QDdOJbV8PHxp6vzne6q7iissNvqzPFnvlec9w9bnseCWy87k1U1EixKZKFKAMN5Wj1dNAdc/s1600/DSC02028.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Short but one of the most beautiful of my long distance walks.</span><br />
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As a matter of fact it was split in two parts:<br />
<ol>
<li>Two days on the skirt of the Dartmoor National Park - mainly along the Dartmoor Way - from Ramsley (near Okehampton) to Bovey Tracey (about 40 km.);</li>
<li>Five days along the South West Coast Path from Brixham to Salcombe (about 55 km).</li>
</ol>
The latter stretch is a bit short for a five days walk but I had to cope with accommodations and ferries.<br />
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I chose to walk the first two days inland because I wanted to look closer to the inner Devon which I had found so gorgeous going on bus from Bude to Exeter a few years ago.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ZZBJB-q-y6QcHsLktzXqQOAa3E3uQZUyefyZgZkxDxCflTYdi3CZpdLsoOW6ve37veocQQSHbiM7McpnecMWJcUhxvY8F9ThYUelD3qL6UjdpYwLNjSFjwAb-dbsK1mCHkzQ5U8tZxw/s1600/DSC01870.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ZZBJB-q-y6QcHsLktzXqQOAa3E3uQZUyefyZgZkxDxCflTYdi3CZpdLsoOW6ve37veocQQSHbiM7McpnecMWJcUhxvY8F9ThYUelD3qL6UjdpYwLNjSFjwAb-dbsK1mCHkzQ5U8tZxw/s1600/DSC01870.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a>And I wasn't disappointed: the area is definitely very beautiful and
varied: woods, moorland, meadows, <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiivkhv3IV_Lo562xgsumOxsVITHUj856dFYs6bKOF8OPd4Gqh9d0joCIuvqRPk_BBEXMdJW6_qbYGbofbrNdlAaqjMlF-IU7_VOiuhK1-Dxxo-3w8ckCZ1ngMXCksUbS_QYm6QUssZhgk/s1600/DSC01897.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiivkhv3IV_Lo562xgsumOxsVITHUj856dFYs6bKOF8OPd4Gqh9d0joCIuvqRPk_BBEXMdJW6_qbYGbofbrNdlAaqjMlF-IU7_VOiuhK1-Dxxo-3w8ckCZ1ngMXCksUbS_QYm6QUssZhgk/s1600/DSC01897.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a>fields and fantastic thatched stone
cottages.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHvsG5IiylDnVl4T-PPBDrU0EFHO_G82ZwdqksQuNOwzpTPCkgnxGe-W_0JO6RCbday2ZTLQUECNfnKUNCwbfii9-Qb4LByiUc3JLkZ3y-JTQ5ZmdtDg4j9UBjVyacGuM9MAGGNKEf_GE/s1600/DSC01864.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHvsG5IiylDnVl4T-PPBDrU0EFHO_G82ZwdqksQuNOwzpTPCkgnxGe-W_0JO6RCbday2ZTLQUECNfnKUNCwbfii9-Qb4LByiUc3JLkZ3y-JTQ5ZmdtDg4j9UBjVyacGuM9MAGGNKEf_GE/s1600/DSC01864.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></div>
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Excepted the stretch behind the shingle of Slapton Sands, which I found ordinary, all the rest is simply splendid.<br />
My favourite: from Hallsands to Portlemouth Downs; fantastic coves stunning views.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKQHn9l5IGq8Vx1UF5HG05bRJOixPMsFKI9zsUOXTO5u46e5oGcgIg-fPcgHuj_prZ04qZEkXQjbZlA8olQyAN4Fm2nce7KAYd8a5A5LE2uYFFUYercxdGEAnQsSZq3z5tbEtrsTRUjfc/s1600/DSC02055.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKQHn9l5IGq8Vx1UF5HG05bRJOixPMsFKI9zsUOXTO5u46e5oGcgIg-fPcgHuj_prZ04qZEkXQjbZlA8olQyAN4Fm2nce7KAYd8a5A5LE2uYFFUYercxdGEAnQsSZq3z5tbEtrsTRUjfc/s1600/DSC02055.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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I have to say that I was blessed by a fantastic weather. Never had such in Britain. Sometimes even too hot; I had to carry more than 2 litres of water instead that the usual 1 litre.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK0gSWJMl6p4G8IZ6DT7rjo04yOWjFZpdUAzbwblO-U1IuPd9gaZx0YfbjDBru-a0JzbmcjyUUSkMutt4lOG5fdtjnsfz3LQ7EY9mJAGUOdix54sOqBkeXmMGJx7OdPWnUM6VnL65d52w/s1600/DSC01923.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK0gSWJMl6p4G8IZ6DT7rjo04yOWjFZpdUAzbwblO-U1IuPd9gaZx0YfbjDBru-a0JzbmcjyUUSkMutt4lOG5fdtjnsfz3LQ7EY9mJAGUOdix54sOqBkeXmMGJx7OdPWnUM6VnL65d52w/s1600/DSC01923.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a>I swam a lot (my first bathe in Britain) and I even got sunburnt!<br />
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I was obliged to camp in a wood 2 miles before Dartmouth because I couldn't call for accommodation due to lack of network signal.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnLnvt8rTMRDShSazYvqxicUvyoDz9Vp_y-H8j9yeSPpoDdKxNwO4i7K1MwULB3UfNnRLxtXakQPnCHP-Qwkz6q1pLTixlPQOmvG5aoQNGcAilOGXa8HJ_BWQ-Xz1OESpGK-nJRvIa4b4/s1600/DSC01945.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnLnvt8rTMRDShSazYvqxicUvyoDz9Vp_y-H8j9yeSPpoDdKxNwO4i7K1MwULB3UfNnRLxtXakQPnCHP-Qwkz6q1pLTixlPQOmvG5aoQNGcAilOGXa8HJ_BWQ-Xz1OESpGK-nJRvIa4b4/s1600/DSC01945.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a><br />
Seen a lot of birds, butterflies, wild Dartmoor ponies, a group of seals and even an adder.<br />
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Only one regret: too short!<br />
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PS: for the gear list, excepted more water, essentially the same as in my previous solo walks. <br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Please see more photos at the relevant <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/118137921553035025541/DevonJuly2014?authuser=0&feat=directlink">album</a>.</span></div>
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<br />Sergio Baldellihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14895701664855290571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8036933995508136555.post-50042549901864925782014-02-18T18:15:00.001+01:002014-02-18T18:15:26.712+01:00How To Open A Can Without A Can Opener<br />
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<img alt="" class="spotlight" height="200" src="https://scontent-b-mxp.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1/1619526_548822611882580_601242062_n.jpg" width="200" /> </div>
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I usually don't carry any can opener during my hikes nor any kind of knife.<br />
Not only because such gear is not allowed on aircraft but especially because I aim for a still ultra-lighter walking.<br />
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But, thanks to the trick you can watch in the video below, in my next hikes I will be able to open a can just with a stone or a piece of concrete.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">BRILLIANT</span></div>
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<a href="http://How To Open A Can Without A Can Opener" target="_blank">How To Open A Can Without A Can Opener</a>Sergio Baldellihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14895701664855290571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8036933995508136555.post-38494575945365123252013-07-13T09:52:00.000+02:002013-07-13T09:58:48.313+02:00A Shortened Hike in the Upper Tiber Area<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj51eUwipzQblZH06XlYP3g0qNfkQOrjZnkA7RWt-s7Y_EfAtl-jsOz8vevL5erAKkTZN94sGYpo3zW168uRZ58JdOBfB4Zwf1HtSQLq31uSZhSIi8UpgA98TdkEEnDWtunV-9_rbAqoFI/s1600/DSC01077.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj51eUwipzQblZH06XlYP3g0qNfkQOrjZnkA7RWt-s7Y_EfAtl-jsOz8vevL5erAKkTZN94sGYpo3zW168uRZ58JdOBfB4Zwf1HtSQLq31uSZhSIi8UpgA98TdkEEnDWtunV-9_rbAqoFI/s320/DSC01077.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Before the medieval Ponte alla Piera bridge</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A few days ago I decided to embark on the long distance walk I had had in mind for many years: from Città di Castello (where I was born) to Florence (where I spent most important parts of my life).<br />
I cannot say how many kilometres it might be as there isn't any definite trail.<br />
I had thought to pass through the hills where there are some paths (in the valleys it is impossible to walk on footpaths)<br />
Roughly the route should have been: Città di Castello - Citerna - Anghiari - Caprese - Chiusi - Badia Prataglia - Vallombrosa - Florence.<br />
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I knew that central Italy is normally hot in July and such a hike should be undertaken in early spring or in October (the latter to avoid because the hunting). But this year the weather seemed rather unsettled and less hot, so I decided to set out anyway without waiting for next spring. I am 67 and hill walking is getting tougher.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqmU0MGa7DzM7yNBC4rJJ3jbtebBi4Z6gw7Hm-ytVZuwixg5se5OmASiDYTCPgHCkGcm0KUWlK6mfRmzsxx90qPgY_OJg9udDRWX1KTElcEtsHW5AoI_OttLsbEUhezZrsWVW4m148FEw/s1600/DSC01044.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqmU0MGa7DzM7yNBC4rJJ3jbtebBi4Z6gw7Hm-ytVZuwixg5se5OmASiDYTCPgHCkGcm0KUWlK6mfRmzsxx90qPgY_OJg9udDRWX1KTElcEtsHW5AoI_OttLsbEUhezZrsWVW4m148FEw/s320/DSC01044.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Poplars along the Tiber at dawn</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
At 5 a.m. on last July the 7th I set off from the Northern outskirts of Città di Castello which I crossed to get to the Tiber bank. There I followed the beautiful path along the river bearing NW.<br />
At dawn I left the river bank and, after some up and downs through the hills, I got to Citerna where I admired the recently restored "<a href="http://donatelloaciterna.it/it/#" target="_blank">Madonna di Citerna</a>", a fantastic painted terracotta by Donatello.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBXWkVuRA2eh5r8vrxmxBEWtCxHG3E_x66BKEmcgby9m8bqm8FjA0vxGwTsAPE2IhX9Piz6rtlNgQSaNn6WQ3E_bCuxt8RHNI9xM05honDnbg0vsn5wo4nC0haBQiVIJPb8xpMcZ97k8Y/s1600/DSC01062.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBXWkVuRA2eh5r8vrxmxBEWtCxHG3E_x66BKEmcgby9m8bqm8FjA0vxGwTsAPE2IhX9Piz6rtlNgQSaNn6WQ3E_bCuxt8RHNI9xM05honDnbg0vsn5wo4nC0haBQiVIJPb8xpMcZ97k8Y/s320/DSC01062.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monterchi from the climb to Citerna</td></tr>
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Being still too early for lunch I continued to walk and, after a descent I started, in very hot weather, to climb the steep slope to Anghiari where I arrived exhausted around 2 p.m.<br />
I had lunch in a restaurant and being still early afternoon and having already visited Anghiari many times I went back to Città di Castello by bus where I remained at my sister's home the following day as well. I was very tired and stiff. In fact I had walked more than 28 km without previous training.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKQ3vl0eJO5wSE04sOPs5TSh3RH8eqPGD1U6TJALV7VfvttTY6Q6g8nXPBWaOjTQb1UXBIM15GO4_P-7c7-p3i3bWlJ2Mknasbxda-D-6r7A-iQJIi8RdKUdO6iNxZl5MLy7nNLB5KKqM/s1600/DSC01066.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKQ3vl0eJO5wSE04sOPs5TSh3RH8eqPGD1U6TJALV7VfvttTY6Q6g8nXPBWaOjTQb1UXBIM15GO4_P-7c7-p3i3bWlJ2Mknasbxda-D-6r7A-iQJIi8RdKUdO6iNxZl5MLy7nNLB5KKqM/s320/DSC01066.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anghiari</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The next day I went by bus to Anghiari and walked up to Caprese Michelangelo (> 20 km) where I spent the night in an hotel.<br />
Next morning I got up with a severe pain in my right knee. I realized that it would have been excruciating to continue walking the steep up and downs laying ahead. And, moreover, the heat was already unbearable so, sadly, I gave up the hike and returned to Città di Castello by bus.<br />
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LESSONS LEARNED<br />
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1. Summer is definitely too hot for hiking in that area.<br />
2. Because the long legs over hills, a suitable previous training is mandatory in order to avoid inflammations to knees, ankles, feet, etc.<br />
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GEAR<br />
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No significant difference from the previous hikes. I didn't carry the second fleece nor the power plug adapter but the gain was balanced by more water and food needed because the heat and the distance between refreshment points.<br />
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THE PATH<br />
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The landscape is gorgeous. The path is rather well signposted but scarcely a footpath: often tarmacked roads and country lanes (at least the section I have walked).<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhohdOti_0B68R5LSZ-yH_hoOAQuXDPPYQMOfCc-ZUbhJdIPR4GeGBzJKaImxQW3-sP9xYFkuFt9XpXAvMP4R23Tn9YhLs0NiAGuYYGRDkK30gNWcfwyqh6RonDcyiWeJ1o4mpukAofqlk/s1600/DSC01083.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhohdOti_0B68R5LSZ-yH_hoOAQuXDPPYQMOfCc-ZUbhJdIPR4GeGBzJKaImxQW3-sP9xYFkuFt9XpXAvMP4R23Tn9YhLs0NiAGuYYGRDkK30gNWcfwyqh6RonDcyiWeJ1o4mpukAofqlk/s320/DSC01083.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Verna in the background</td></tr>
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<br />Sergio Baldellihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14895701664855290571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8036933995508136555.post-14892173380935662162013-06-25T13:40:00.000+02:002013-07-13T09:56:11.727+02:00Fife Coastal Path<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX7H5usQX9wK3hA8HP91XBpHWrq6cnSds-RX9LDDQpj1GJF7-NW9VjXi47EZymtUKVIt1xB8C4R7J1Z4WGxhdjw3VFtmeM4OjAPC29beehCvkATZEIaG8jKFHzTUR8VTrsjiPaXiaj0BQ/s1600/DSC00906.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX7H5usQX9wK3hA8HP91XBpHWrq6cnSds-RX9LDDQpj1GJF7-NW9VjXi47EZymtUKVIt1xB8C4R7J1Z4WGxhdjw3VFtmeM4OjAPC29beehCvkATZEIaG8jKFHzTUR8VTrsjiPaXiaj0BQ/s400/DSC00906.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the start with the Rail Bridge behind</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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My second long distance walk in Scotland. But this time I was lucky (save for a severe pain in a foot): no incessant rain nor flooded terrain like last summer along the Berwickshire Coastal Path.<br />
On the contrary, dry weather (save some drizzles during the last leg) and even two shining sunny days.<br />
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As a matter of fact, I didn't walk the whole path. I started from Inverkeithing on the Firth of Forth and finished at St Andrew on the Firth of Tay.<br />
By bus I skipped some bleak conurbations (Kinghorn, Kirkcaldy, Buckhaven and Methil).<br />
I have walked about 90 km in 4 full days and 2 half days (first and last legs) which amounts to an average of 18 km per day.<br />
The shortest leg was about 10 km (Inverkeithing-Aberdour) walked on the afternoon of June the 17th arriving directly from Edinburgh Airport.<br />
The longest one was about 27 km from St Monans to Pitmilly B&B (between Kingsbarns and St Andrews).<br />
The path is generally easy with a few steep up-and-downs especially between Kingsbarns and St Andrews.<br />
The signposting is excellent; I lost the track only once probably in a moment of inattentiveness.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjavdlt5ujIDmiOUI1bAGz7BkbbQplM5oL-4cFS7BRf_A9rLoZTEpULKQ_ZHj50UVD5GYY7YO0kRHNLqtx_h9JtO2-_LmVk8UQ5bBTK_5HclTikn9UBjW6XdCj-YDAzVGVMcQ7a-iyfF00/s1600/DSC00948.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjavdlt5ujIDmiOUI1bAGz7BkbbQplM5oL-4cFS7BRf_A9rLoZTEpULKQ_ZHj50UVD5GYY7YO0kRHNLqtx_h9JtO2-_LmVk8UQ5bBTK_5HclTikn9UBjW6XdCj-YDAzVGVMcQ7a-iyfF00/s320/DSC00948.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="LS">Walking barefoot the long beach East of Lower Largo</span></td></tr>
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HIGHLIGHTS<br />
Gorgeous pink sandy beaches, birds (herons, oystercatchers, wrens, kites, etc.), some nice coastal villages, lush woods.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxShqDSKwVdici6yQoqbtrtBkrTDKZouf4NI0_vTAMmSsvKTmWIGrunCtDR2awdCPtA4gLXScESsN2Po0sL7A' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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But what I loved best was seeing three seals placidly swimming near the coast. It is the first time in my life that I see a seal in the real world (see above video).<br />
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LOWLIGHTS<br />
Bleak conurbations (Kinghorn, Kirkcaldy, Buckhaven and Methil).<br />
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GEAR<br />
Nothing new: 4 kg rucksack load with half liter of water and basic camping gear (mattress, sleeping bag, poncho shelter, pegs and pole).<br />
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NEXT<br />
Perhaps the <b><i>Cleveland Way</i></b> in September when heather in full blossom.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbNlMpLSJihioA0A5Xyj3zWW_m1aGB-cEtflygiJ4n67jJKMVnHRy14OlFcv_P0xk87m6k7JR7BN4dz1OQO5oMcfZfI7U7ssX4b3AbfPlP5SA8gqfQW7T4Yy7sJ0ZiPs8syOUOREWGJuM/s1600/DSC01022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbNlMpLSJihioA0A5Xyj3zWW_m1aGB-cEtflygiJ4n67jJKMVnHRy14OlFcv_P0xk87m6k7JR7BN4dz1OQO5oMcfZfI7U7ssX4b3AbfPlP5SA8gqfQW7T4Yy7sJ0ZiPs8syOUOREWGJuM/s400/DSC01022.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="LS">Approaching St Andrews. Tayside in the background</span></td></tr>
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<br />Sergio Baldellihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14895701664855290571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8036933995508136555.post-4882499963557446742013-05-04T13:22:00.000+02:002013-05-04T22:44:14.816+02:00From Chepstow to Gloucester<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT2khqfS2uGWnWirytQR-J5bEOWlCNp58wN0iHO8w7CSNprRqB6Nm_fZC8xTLLxK8oSgB_wiWlieD7Oi-Dk91CfOo5DujJXrhQjW9gdIliZeCPAz-CV9Pc2vBaPQWhD4us087YBKQdbEg/s1600/DSC00814.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT2khqfS2uGWnWirytQR-J5bEOWlCNp58wN0iHO8w7CSNprRqB6Nm_fZC8xTLLxK8oSgB_wiWlieD7Oi-Dk91CfOo5DujJXrhQjW9gdIliZeCPAz-CV9Pc2vBaPQWhD4us087YBKQdbEg/s320/DSC00814.JPG" width="320" /></a>From 25th to 30th of April, together with my whole family, I walked about 70 km from Chepstow (Wales) to Gloucester (England).<br />
<br />
From Chepstow to Monmouth we followed the Wye Valley Walk; often on woody tracks and, mainly, on the Wales side of the river.<br />
<br />
At Monmouth we took the <span style="background-color: yellow;">Wysis Way</span> through the <span style="background-color: yellow;">Forest of Dean</span> and, finally, across the Gloucester country side before getting to Gloucester.<br />
<br />
We were jolly lucky with the <span style="background-color: yellow;">weather</span>: fresh but often sunny and no rain at all.<br />
<br />
The <span style="background-color: yellow;">landscape</span> was beautiful but, especially in Wales, not so well kept and clean as in other part of British trails (e.g. Ridgeway, South Down Way, etc.).<br />
<br />
The <span style="background-color: yellow;">signposting</span> of both trails is far from satisfactory. In spite of my long distance walking experience, we lost the track from time to time.<br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: yellow;">Gear<span style="background-color: white;"></span></span>: no sensibly different from my ultra-light equipment of previous hikes without camping gear: 4.2 kg with food and 1 l. water.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXqinQPlhMmAVL__EFjFPnsluzAm1a_jGsqH4xHbnQzJfZNVrzxROm2cWoyyFnzSk_L5k2zB9CikOzOSvVTwKfLs5gFthZFlNHXX1Fd9oWzzW7x7B4xV_pMOV_OOppyWMzU1b4NHuZrdw/s1600/DSC00809.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXqinQPlhMmAVL__EFjFPnsluzAm1a_jGsqH4xHbnQzJfZNVrzxROm2cWoyyFnzSk_L5k2zB9CikOzOSvVTwKfLs5gFthZFlNHXX1Fd9oWzzW7x7B4xV_pMOV_OOppyWMzU1b4NHuZrdw/s200/DSC00809.jpg" width="200" /></a><span style="background-color: yellow;">Highlights</span>: woods and forests, carpets of anemones, violets and bluebells (sadly not yet in full blossom), huge oak and yew trees, red kites; Tintern Abbey, Gloucester Cathedral.<br />
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<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: yellow;">Conclusion<span style="background-color: white;"></span></span>: I would rank this hike of average quality compared to my previous ones. One week later we could have enjoyed full blossom of bluebells. <br />
<br />
A final word about <span style="background-color: yellow;">Tintern Abbey</span>: I was a little disappointed. But, as <span style="background-color: yellow;">Proust</span> so remarkably analyses: <b>there's the result of the real world impact on the imagination constructions!</b><br />
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Look at the <a href="https://plus.google.com/photos/118137921553035025541/albums/5873482332684753857">photos</a> taken during the hike.Sergio Baldellihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14895701664855290571noreply@blogger.com0Monmouth NP25, UK51.816132 -2.714501000000041151.776871500000006 -2.7951820000000414 51.8553925 -2.6338200000000409tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8036933995508136555.post-38070760785866346442012-07-28T18:32:00.000+02:002012-07-28T18:32:09.172+02:00A boggy hike through Scotland and England<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCSoSIIgioahd3mJgMP8zco1weP5WjgU7ySKIakVkBPjaSG3VbgJWdHtUByLfVM-8vKjA4z8K-zbP7EZQsHXUtRgcCTze3clkONpfSlLlwpGi5Kn_rDE2KLB0UXGg4skQHjjEKK41Di_c/s1600/DSC00521.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCSoSIIgioahd3mJgMP8zco1weP5WjgU7ySKIakVkBPjaSG3VbgJWdHtUByLfVM-8vKjA4z8K-zbP7EZQsHXUtRgcCTze3clkONpfSlLlwpGi5Kn_rDE2KLB0UXGg4skQHjjEKK41Di_c/s320/DSC00521.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The cliffs between Eyemouth and Berwick u. Tweed</td></tr>
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From the 7th to the 15th of July I walked along the South East Coast of Scotland and North East Coast of England.<br />
Initially I had planned a 180 km hike. Firstly along the coast from North Berwick (near Edinburgh) down to Holy Island (Northumberland) and then, following the St Cuthbert's Way, finishing at Jedburgh after a little stretch on the Border Abbeys Way.<br />
<br />
Unfortunately, after two months of continuous heavy rain, paths and tracks were often ankle deep boggy and sometimes even flooded. So advancing was painful and slow. During my last leg, a few miles after Belford, I had even to wade knee deep a large field in order to get to the stile.<br />
Even with gaiters, (that I could get only at Berwick upon Tweed. I had never carried any), footwear, socks and trousers were awfully soaked and muddy.<br />
Two times I had to stop for a day in order to dry footwear and socks.<br />
So, having lost two days I was obliged to shorten the hike. I changed the itinerary as well, remaining along the coast in the hope of finding a less flooded and boggy soil.<br />
<br />
<b>So, this year, my hikes are marked by pretty bad weather! </b><a href="http://longdistancewalking-sergio.blogspot.it/2012/06/stroll-through-south-west-france.html">See previous post</a>.<br />
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<h4>
SHORT DESCRIPTION OF THE HIKE</h4>
<u>July 7th North Berwick - East Linton</u><br />
<br />
Because the heavy rain that had been pouring all the night long I was quite resolved to skip the first leg and take a bus to St Abbs. As there was a spell just after breakfast I decided to set out on foot.<br />
But the path was covered by high grasses so wet that, only after half an hour walk, my feet were splashing in footwear full of water and mud.<br />
Sometimes the soil was so boggy that progressing was very difficult if at all.<br />
I decided then to quit the path and follow tarmacked country lanes. Although the traffic was scarce it was dangerous nonetheless because the narrowness of the roads and the speed of the cars. I saw even two deer killed by cars.<br />
I got exhausted to East Linton after about 7 km of hard walking. I had a cake and coffee in a nice café and then took the bus to Dunbar where I remained the following day in order to dry my footwear and socks.<br />
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<u>July 9th St Abbs - Eyemouth</u><br />
<br />
Due to the awfully bad weather and the state of the soil it would have been difficult to camp, especially with my tiny shelter. I was then obliged to skip the stretch from Dunbar to St Abbs where no accommodation is available. So I went by bus from Dunbar to St Abbs from where I walked the 6 km to Eyemouth<u></u>. A short leg indeed but hard nonetheless because the state of the soil.<br />
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<u>July 10th Eymouth - Berwick upon Tweed</u><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj9vmy9Pwcq6ck_OEjsncA978qyhGuNDiKB7JZki6I5i14b4i_tNnM_1AnUCfBs9bhxoygYCCRrMeQDrAnv517Cmf4cQNTP42SObUasRRqEXFRvs_-YVwLs-Y0fQQfJaaF8MrWU-dQD8k/s1600/DSC00538.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj9vmy9Pwcq6ck_OEjsncA978qyhGuNDiKB7JZki6I5i14b4i_tNnM_1AnUCfBs9bhxoygYCCRrMeQDrAnv517Cmf4cQNTP42SObUasRRqEXFRvs_-YVwLs-Y0fQQfJaaF8MrWU-dQD8k/s320/DSC00538.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A natural arch</td></tr>
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During the 18 km of this stretch heavy rain, wet high grasses and deep bog continued and I was obliged to stop one day at Berwick u. Tweed in order to dry footwear, socks and trousers. I also bought a pair of gaiters.<br />
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<u>July 12th Berwick upon Tweed - Brockmill Farm (near Beal)</u><br />
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Luckily a good deal of this 19 km hike was along the beach so I got to the B&B in better condition than usually.<br />
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<u>July 13th Brockmill Farm - Holy Island - Brockmill Farm</u><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The causeway to Holy Island (in the background)</td></tr>
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I had originally planned to stay in Holy Island but no accommodation was available in spite of the awful weather. So I stayed at the splendid Brockmill Farm which I warmly recommend for its quality and the niceness of the landlady.<br />
I didn't want to miss Holy Island so on the 13th I walked the 9 km to the island and came back crossing the lagoon at low tide in order to avoid the dangerous and fastidious car traffic of the causeway. I must confess that although the tide was still ebbing I was a bit thrilled when I was in the middle of the lagoon a 2,5 km from each end. The information panel said that the crossing along the poles, besides to be never undertaken by rising tide, should be always done with some guide. I proceeded warily and I was a bit comforted seeing many recent footprints.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgytoRARl32y6YLgUwSKQ3MqE01OyjQ8rAYFUd9hG0FaGyHsxEes-KtzhEPpFT75rzVGT9k6ZCRVBS2oa6qf-jjCrhNaXaiW44jvoqFAdQctGuQqILVa3-EhazCN9OAjZ3-NeDVv-RzmsQ/s1600/DSC00614.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgytoRARl32y6YLgUwSKQ3MqE01OyjQ8rAYFUd9hG0FaGyHsxEes-KtzhEPpFT75rzVGT9k6ZCRVBS2oa6qf-jjCrhNaXaiW44jvoqFAdQctGuQqILVa3-EhazCN9OAjZ3-NeDVv-RzmsQ/s320/DSC00614.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A refuge along the crossing of the lagoon</td></tr>
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<u>July 14th Brockmill Farm - Belford</u><br />
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This leg was only 11 km but hard nonetheless: bog over the ankles along a great deal of the trail. Luckily I wore gaiters but, unfortunately, they promoted inflammation to the main tendon. I had bought the only kind I could find and they are not fit for me.<br />
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<u>July 15th Belford - Bramburgh</u><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching Bramburgh from the beach</td></tr>
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I started high spirited: at last no rain and even some spells of sun!<br />
But alas my pains were not over. I found high wet grasses and deep bog until I reached the Budle Bay sands, just before the end of the leg.<br />
And it is in this very leg that I was even obliged to wade knee deep a flooded field just after Belford.<br />
When eventually I got to the beach I took off boots and socks and I walked the last 3 km naked feet in order to let the footwear dry a little: I had to spend the night in the airport waiting for my 6:30 A.M. flight.<br />
<br />
<h4>
THE GEAR</h4>
No significant differences with my previous hike in South West France (<a href="http://longdistancewalking-sergio.blogspot.it/2012/06/stroll-through-south-west-france.html">see last post</a>). I only carried an additional fleece in case of cold nights at the camp.<br />
<br />Sergio Baldellihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14895701664855290571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8036933995508136555.post-86312658063009890432012-06-17T18:06:00.000+02:002012-06-19T07:11:22.774+02:00A stroll through South West France<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPopeXQtQX8A9LAZFQn73YSOknDG39njaJyfsMyAdCUpUmfQPac4xKBKpsOUcGySRVKE0wgozYTx22ALKlUj-IIKXeAOkJ1jw0oO3MlmYEp_kgpMq52sex3KVJRcjz9rRkLfonMD4Fe_I/s1600/DSC00316.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPopeXQtQX8A9LAZFQn73YSOknDG39njaJyfsMyAdCUpUmfQPac4xKBKpsOUcGySRVKE0wgozYTx22ALKlUj-IIKXeAOkJ1jw0oO3MlmYEp_kgpMq52sex3KVJRcjz9rRkLfonMD4Fe_I/s320/DSC00316.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
I am just back home after about 80 km walking in South West France from the 7th to the 12th of June .<br />
<br />
As a matter of fact it wasn't a continuous stretch but it was divided in three sections as I am going to explain below.<br />
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Compared to my previous hikes this last one shows a lower rate km/days. This depends on various reasons:<br />
<ul>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmE1S0sQ1JvH7WFqhvGd4meRbdyejd4mJwrJc0wKOSdEWGoIsiWIuxQy1t6FTDTVlbn8bWVKhn_u7yQPDuCmaTgdYIC9UM7Eps0H2dpKQXTbkvF_0bmebUQpUA8LVheXHYXtj18O_CwnY/s1600/DSC00457.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmE1S0sQ1JvH7WFqhvGd4meRbdyejd4mJwrJc0wKOSdEWGoIsiWIuxQy1t6FTDTVlbn8bWVKhn_u7yQPDuCmaTgdYIC9UM7Eps0H2dpKQXTbkvF_0bmebUQpUA8LVheXHYXtj18O_CwnY/s1600/DSC00457.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a>
<li> In planning the hike I wanted to walk along the Aveyron Gorges by the GR 36 and then follow the Célé valley through the GR 65 and GR 651, starting from Laguépie and finishing up at Cahors. But there isn't any trail linking directly the end of the Aveyron Gorges with the Célé valley so I decided to split my hike in two sections and travel by public transport from Villefranche de Rouergue (upon the Aveyron) to Figeac (upon the Célé) avoiding thus a very long detour through a less spectacular area.</li>
<li>I started the hike without a previous training and I wasn't quite fit either because some health troubles. Moreover, the weather was pretty hot and the trail rather steep. So, I got to the end of the first day at Monteils quite exhausted and with stiff legs. In addition, during the night it started to rain which, unfortunately, continued heavily during all the following days of my walking. Thus, in the morning, I decided to skip the second leg and, by itch hike and coach I went to Figeac where started the second stretch of the route I had planned.</li>
<li>When I got to Sauliac upon Célé, my cell phone refused to work and no public phone available there. So I couldn't enquiry for any accommodation. I had mattress and shelter but, since it had been raining for two days, the ground was awfully wet and, furthermore, full of sharp pebbles. Thus camping didn't seem a pleasant solution. The village appeared desert and I began to be a little worried. Luckily, at last, a lady came out of her house and was so kind as to call the local B&Bs for me. The only one available was pretty off the trail but the landlady (English) fetched me up. She was also willing to carry me to the trail in the following morning. As her house was as far from where she had picked me up as from the next village along the trail (Cabrerets) she said she could give me a lift to any one of the two spots. Thus, a bit discouraged by the very bad weather and by the mentioned health troubles I chose the latter solution shortening the hike of about 10 km.</li>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmE1S0sQ1JvH7WFqhvGd4meRbdyejd4mJwrJc0wKOSdEWGoIsiWIuxQy1t6FTDTVlbn8bWVKhn_u7yQPDuCmaTgdYIC9UM7Eps0H2dpKQXTbkvF_0bmebUQpUA8LVheXHYXtj18O_CwnY/s1600/DSC00457.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmE1S0sQ1JvH7WFqhvGd4meRbdyejd4mJwrJc0wKOSdEWGoIsiWIuxQy1t6FTDTVlbn8bWVKhn_u7yQPDuCmaTgdYIC9UM7Eps0H2dpKQXTbkvF_0bmebUQpUA8LVheXHYXtj18O_CwnY/s200/DSC00457.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of Albi</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<li>From Cabreret upon the Célé I walked up to Bouziès where the GR 651 merges into the GR 36 (main St. James' Way) and the river Célé flows into the river Lot. I had planned to continue up to Cahors along the Lot valley but the still persisting bad weather with depressing black clouds and annoying continuous rain made me decide to finish there my hike and so I got a car to Cahors from where, after a short visit to the town (not particularly enchanting) I went to Albi, a wonderful town where I spent the two days remaining before my flight. </li>
</ul>
<h4>
Assessment</h4>
Despite the bad weather and the health troubles it was a splendid hike: gorgeous sceneries, enchanting stone villages, charming people, delicious food, ...<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYtxbwgpdFURLovtZqiXZ2VZwZvgbhz4EqyL2lh_F0fW8m4HsFJ-BZBpNAEIyteUbXdtwFggJhoPgEGROz1sKCK_a0G-pRRggVV1K-iF4c1fxFFurg1_O0cQCUQo0xFM-vDBenR4q_eTI/s1600/DSC00314.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYtxbwgpdFURLovtZqiXZ2VZwZvgbhz4EqyL2lh_F0fW8m4HsFJ-BZBpNAEIyteUbXdtwFggJhoPgEGROz1sKCK_a0G-pRRggVV1K-iF4c1fxFFurg1_O0cQCUQo0xFM-vDBenR4q_eTI/s320/DSC00314.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Falaises over the Célé valley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Apropos delicious food and charming people I want just to mention Mme Pierrete who keeps the Auberge Restaurant at Marcilhac upon Célé. She is a very pleasant lady and a magnificent cook. At that same restaurant I had a nice chat with an English couple as well.<br />
<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
</h4>
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<h4>
Gear</h4>
No significant changes to my last hikes. The only one worthwhile to mention is that, being a keen reader, for 170 g. of additional weight, I allowed me the luxury of an eBook reader which is especially agreeable when waiting at airports and stations.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaehJC_PWm6hb45b4W6ZyRzrNI3YHZNOiFXuBp5XpUML7qFaFC8z6jEhCdq9GtXjuRsnhg38EROnqvf8csPL6LbaDmNQj6OeIgohzXYNbXV1y-hoXgfqwx2lutOdTrn3rU3hBxW3bhOFM/s1600/DSC00244.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaehJC_PWm6hb45b4W6ZyRzrNI3YHZNOiFXuBp5XpUML7qFaFC8z6jEhCdq9GtXjuRsnhg38EROnqvf8csPL6LbaDmNQj6OeIgohzXYNbXV1y-hoXgfqwx2lutOdTrn3rU3hBxW3bhOFM/s320/DSC00244.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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<h4 style="text-align: center;">
Gear list</h4>
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<td align="LEFT" height="16"><br /></td>
<td bgcolor="#FFFF99" style="text-align: right;"><i>Number in</i></td>
<td bgcolor="#FFFF99" style="text-align: right;"><i>Number</i></td>
<td bgcolor="#FFFF99" style="text-align: right;"><i>Weight</i></td>
<td bgcolor="#FFFF99" style="text-align: right;"><i>Total weight</i></td>
<td bgcolor="#FFFF99" style="text-align: right;"><i>Total weight</i></td>
</tr>
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<td align="LEFT" bgcolor="#FFFF99" height="16"><i>Item</i></td>
<td bgcolor="#FFFF99" style="text-align: right;"><i>Rucksack</i></td>
<td bgcolor="#FFFF99" style="text-align: right;"><i>Worn</i></td>
<td bgcolor="#FFFF99" style="text-align: right;"><i>per unit</i></td>
<td bgcolor="#FFFF99" style="text-align: right;"><i>Worn</i></td>
<td bgcolor="#FFFF99" style="text-align: right;"><i>in rucksack</i></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Camera</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">121</td>
<td align="RIGHT">121</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Camera battery charger</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">93</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">93</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Camera battery spare</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">15</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">15</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Canteen (Gourde by Liquitainer)</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">29</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">29</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Cell phone</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">77</td>
<td align="RIGHT">77</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Cell phone battery charger</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">43</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">43</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Cleenex</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">27</td>
<td align="RIGHT">27</td>
<td align="RIGHT">27</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Cutlery</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">39</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">39</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Documents (maps, accommodation, etc.)</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">110</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">110</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Fleece light (Montane)</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">231</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Fleece light Active (Montane)</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">257</td>
<td align="RIGHT">257</td>
<td align="RIGHT">257</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Food (rice cakes, dried fruit, fruit bars)</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">670</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">670</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Ground Cloth</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">35</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">35</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Hat</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">107</td>
<td align="RIGHT">107</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Holdall (A.M.K. Bivvy Compression Bag)</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">7</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">7</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Jacket (Montane Prism 2.0)</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">421</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">421</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Kindle</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">170</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">170</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Mattress (Therm-a-Rest New Air)</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">400</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">400</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Mattress Repair Kit</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">11</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">11</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Medicine</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">61</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">61</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Notebook</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">32</td>
<td align="RIGHT">32</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Pants</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">32</td>
<td align="RIGHT"><i>32</i></td>
<td align="RIGHT">32</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Pen</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">13</td>
<td align="RIGHT">13</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Poncho-Shelter (Gatewood Cape by Six Moon Designs)</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">323</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">323</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Rucksack (Gossamer Gear – Murmur)</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">202</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">202</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Sewing kit</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">8</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">8</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Shoes</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">636</td>
<td align="RIGHT">636</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Sleeping Bag (HighLite by Western Mountaineering)</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">471</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">471</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Socks</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">78</td>
<td align="RIGHT">78</td>
<td align="RIGHT">78</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">T-shirt (DriMove BL1 by GoLite)</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">134</td>
<td align="RIGHT">134</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">T-shirt (in cotton for sleeping)</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">115</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">115</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Tent Harness</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">20</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">20</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Tent Pegs</td>
<td align="RIGHT">6</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">10</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">60</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Tent Pole</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">55</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">55</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Thermometer-Compass (by Recta)</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">10</td>
<td align="RIGHT">10</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Toilet paper</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">40</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">40</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Tooth brush</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">15</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">15</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Torch (Photon Micro-Light II)</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">9</td>
<td align="RIGHT">9</td>
<td align="RIGHT">9</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Towel</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">48</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">48</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Walking trousers</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">374</td>
<td align="RIGHT">374</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Wallet</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">143</td>
<td align="RIGHT">143</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="16">Water 1 l.</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1,000</td>
<td align="RIGHT">0</td>
<td align="RIGHT">1,000</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" bgcolor="#FFFF99" height="16"><i>Total (in grams)</i></td>
<td align="LEFT" bgcolor="#FFFF99"><br /></td>
<td align="LEFT" bgcolor="#FFFF99"><br /></td>
<td align="LEFT" bgcolor="#FFFF99"><br /></td>
<td align="RIGHT" bgcolor="#FFFF99">1,929</td>
<td align="RIGHT" bgcolor="#FFFF99">4,864</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />Sergio Baldellihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14895701664855290571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8036933995508136555.post-36119415358691808282011-08-12T19:50:00.039+02:002011-08-12T23:14:39.995+02:00Some of the Ridgeway and Thames Path<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrvpBWfTXi4DChyphenhyphenuoDqTe_-5jpxs7JwAnqyjHgVRTGKcRAAUtMdufQJNgM2yq61TEgY7Fe5dS91nnfjHzTPsYgW2WEvu2FQwBht3sAlT8Ehf16_T8zUoDTp2WaJJo2Qn_8n9bCzwM47b0/s1600/P8030002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrvpBWfTXi4DChyphenhyphenuoDqTe_-5jpxs7JwAnqyjHgVRTGKcRAAUtMdufQJNgM2yq61TEgY7Fe5dS91nnfjHzTPsYgW2WEvu2FQwBht3sAlT8Ehf16_T8zUoDTp2WaJJo2Qn_8n9bCzwM47b0/s320/P8030002.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">I am just back from a five days stroll along the Ridgeway and the Thames Path.</span></div><div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">This was a <b>very special hike</b> in the history of my long distance walking: I had the pleasure to walk with both my daughters (Héloïse 24 and Beatrice 20) and, moreover, the last two days (on flat terrain) with my wife Chantal.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixCBBHBJeQ9M0_tHyYStT9_Vs8uBN5JBEYGHbssgF7iymf5tbQydsJrPP2JXPWS2g_GfG6kneMR53eb07Tld8CO2Gb5JicHPfP7mx9wF1zgGO0mmidoQctU2G3_bS_QfQAhq8gffohCcY/s1600/P8030001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixCBBHBJeQ9M0_tHyYStT9_Vs8uBN5JBEYGHbssgF7iymf5tbQydsJrPP2JXPWS2g_GfG6kneMR53eb07Tld8CO2Gb5JicHPfP7mx9wF1zgGO0mmidoQctU2G3_bS_QfQAhq8gffohCcY/s320/P8030001.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div><div style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">We set out the 3d of August from the East end of the Ridgeway on Beacon Hill (Buckinghamshire). The third day we left the Ridgeway about two kilometers after Watlington (Oxfordshire), and through various footpaths, we arrived at Wallingford where we met my wife (60 km from the beginning of the hike).</span></div><div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">The following day we took the Thames Path northwards all the four and, after staying at a B&B in Sutton Courtenay, we got the following day to Oxford (the last few km by bus): the end of our journey.</span></div><div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">We had only one day of very bad <b>weather</b> with rather heavy rain all the day long. My Goretex trail shoes (Innov-8 Rocklight 318 GTX), although meant to be waterproof, were soaked after only two hours! I am wondering whether it could be possible to find a lightweight shoe really waterproof!</span></div><div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">We enjoyed the Ridgeway: varied landscapes and gorgeous beech woods where we caught sight of squirrels and red kites.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrjqvwBKb2JJuuxGlcQR0Y219rqPeeSNqQ2gZHWRDz_RZ07XgCbqdhbIxjK0Tr878CLmc6l_ibb1MljPk_PJRtrY7Hbm5Zd0oBvXSDf2URpwZcacX89PqGCj2kIB9YYvvgvHb5SS07jbY/s1600/P8030007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrjqvwBKb2JJuuxGlcQR0Y219rqPeeSNqQ2gZHWRDz_RZ07XgCbqdhbIxjK0Tr878CLmc6l_ibb1MljPk_PJRtrY7Hbm5Zd0oBvXSDf2URpwZcacX89PqGCj2kIB9YYvvgvHb5SS07jbY/s320/P8030007.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div><div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">On the contrary, we didn't like so much the Thames Path (at least the stretch we walked). We found it quite monotonous.</span></div><div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>GEAR</b></span></div><div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">I can boast to have improved my quest for ultra light walking. My rucksack with food and 1l water was only 4 k.</span></div><div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">I learned that, at least in such populated country as Buckinghamshire and Oxfordshire, I can further reduce the food to a minimum emergency ration.</span></div><div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">In this hike I had previously reserved the accommodation for all the legs, so I didn't carry the mattress nor the tent pole and stakes although I brought the tent because it works as a poncho as well. This, saved me a kilo.</span></div><div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">One last detail: my Murmur, an ultra light rucksack by Gossamer Gear, has got too long shoulder straps for my size (it is made in only one size). The designer is a tall American while I am a rather short Mediterranean.</span></div><div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">So the sternum strap is too low and the weight doesn't distribute perfectly. I will then be obliged to make some modifications.</span></div><br />
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<tr> <td align="LEFT" bgcolor="#FFFF99" height="17" width="337"><i><br />
</i></td> <td align="LEFT" bgcolor="#FFFF99" width="71"><i>Number in</i></td> <td align="LEFT" bgcolor="#FFFF99" width="58"><i>Number</i></td> <td align="LEFT" bgcolor="#FFFF99" width="51"><i>Weight</i></td> <td align="LEFT" bgcolor="#FFFF99" width="80"><i>Total weight</i></td> <td align="LEFT" bgcolor="#FFFF99" width="80"><i>Total weight</i></td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" bgcolor="#FFFF99" height="17"><i>Item</i></td> <td align="LEFT" bgcolor="#FFFF99"><i>Rucksack</i></td> <td align="LEFT" bgcolor="#FFFF99"><i>Worn</i></td> <td align="LEFT" bgcolor="#FFFF99"><i>per unit</i></td> <td align="LEFT" bgcolor="#FFFF99"><i>Worn</i></td> <td align="LEFT" bgcolor="#FFFF99"><i>in rucksack</i></td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Camera</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="RIGHT">121</td> <td align="RIGHT">121</td> <td align="RIGHT">0</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Camera battery charger</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">101</td> <td align="RIGHT">0</td> <td align="RIGHT">101</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Camera battery spare</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">15</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">15</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Canteen</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">29</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">29</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Cell phone</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="RIGHT">77</td> <td align="RIGHT">77</td> <td align="RIGHT">0</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Cell phone battery charger</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">43</td> <td align="RIGHT">0</td> <td align="RIGHT">43</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Cleenex</td> <td align="RIGHT">2</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="RIGHT">27</td> <td align="RIGHT">27</td> <td align="RIGHT">54</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Cutlery</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">39</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">39</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Documents (maps, accommodation, timetables, etc.)</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">139</td> <td align="RIGHT">0</td> <td align="RIGHT">139</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Fleece light (Montane)</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">231</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">231</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Fleece light Active (Montane)</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="RIGHT">257</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">257</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Food (rice cakes, dried fruit, sesame crunch)</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">715</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">715</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Hat</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="RIGHT">107</td> <td align="RIGHT">107</td> <td align="RIGHT">0</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Holdall (A.M.K. Bivvy Compression Bag)</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">7</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">7</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Jacket</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">421</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">421</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Medicine</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">56</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">56</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Notebook</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="RIGHT">32</td> <td align="RIGHT">32</td> <td align="RIGHT">0</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Orthopaedic insoles</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">90</td> <td align="RIGHT">0</td> <td align="RIGHT">90</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Pants</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="RIGHT">28</td> <td align="RIGHT"><i>28</i></td> <td align="RIGHT">28</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Pen</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="RIGHT">13</td> <td align="RIGHT">13</td> <td align="RIGHT">0</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Poncho-Shelter</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">323</td> <td align="RIGHT">0</td> <td align="RIGHT">323</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Power adapter</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">39</td> <td align="RIGHT">0</td> <td align="RIGHT">39</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Rucksack (Gossamer Gear – Murmur)</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">202</td> <td align="RIGHT">0</td> <td align="RIGHT">202</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Sewing kit</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">8</td> <td align="RIGHT">0</td> <td align="RIGHT">8</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Shoes</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="RIGHT">636</td> <td align="RIGHT">636</td> <td align="RIGHT">0</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Socks</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="RIGHT">78</td> <td align="RIGHT">78</td> <td align="RIGHT">78</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">T-shirt</td> <td align="RIGHT">0</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="RIGHT">134</td> <td align="RIGHT">134</td> <td align="RIGHT">0</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">T-shirt (in cotton for sleeping)</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="RIGHT">0</td> <td align="RIGHT">118</td> <td align="RIGHT">0</td> <td align="RIGHT">118</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Thermometer-Compass</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="RIGHT">10</td> <td align="RIGHT">10</td> <td align="RIGHT">0</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Toilet paper</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">44</td> <td align="RIGHT">0</td> <td align="RIGHT">44</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Tooth brush</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">15</td> <td align="RIGHT">0</td> <td align="RIGHT">15</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Torch</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="RIGHT">9</td> <td align="RIGHT">9</td> <td align="RIGHT">9</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Walking trousers</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="RIGHT">374</td> <td align="RIGHT">374</td> <td align="RIGHT">0</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Wallet</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="RIGHT">143</td> <td align="RIGHT">143</td> <td align="RIGHT">0</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17">Water 1 l.</td> <td align="RIGHT">1</td> <td align="LEFT"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT">1,000</td> <td align="RIGHT">0</td> <td align="RIGHT">1,000</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" bgcolor="#FFFF99" height="17"><i>Total (in grams)</i></td> <td align="LEFT" bgcolor="#FFFF99"><br />
</td> <td align="LEFT" bgcolor="#FFFF99"><br />
</td> <td align="LEFT" bgcolor="#FFFF99"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT" bgcolor="#FFFF99">1,668</td> <td align="RIGHT" bgcolor="#FFFF99">4,061</td> </tr>
</tbody> </table><div style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><br />
</div><br />
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<div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">PROJECTS<br />
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I am thinking to embark, at the end of August, on an old project: walking from my home town (Città di Castello in Umbria) to Florence. I am studying the best route: otherwise than UK, Italy is a very poor country in public footpaths (see my <a href="http://longdistancewalking-sergio.blogspot.com/2007/09/why-england.html">very first post</a> on this matter).</span></div><div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><br />
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Sergio Baldellihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14895701664855290571noreply@blogger.com0Buckinghamshire, UK51.8072204 -0.8127663999999867951.4450929 -1.2081853999999868 52.1693479 -0.41734739999998677tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8036933995508136555.post-35017182095077967302011-05-31T17:16:00.001+02:002011-06-02T13:03:24.264+02:00A (Sadly) Curtailed Hike along the South West Coast Path<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6N9jVvYYAqVOFgkndU-0F011yBm7hzru2L2F4ACsy00I4koBBU9aY95_Uan0vE-8WzbNk0ucvx3zh2LWJaPBedVVZhnwd7Ci2E7_AkSn2HQzVUfRd_MyBH_s8rErdUyrrZRbHy-9UwjU/s1600/P5220064.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6N9jVvYYAqVOFgkndU-0F011yBm7hzru2L2F4ACsy00I4koBBU9aY95_Uan0vE-8WzbNk0ucvx3zh2LWJaPBedVVZhnwd7Ci2E7_AkSn2HQzVUfRd_MyBH_s8rErdUyrrZRbHy-9UwjU/s400/P5220064.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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Being retired since the beginning of this year, I was pretty enthusiastic to be able, at last, to set out on longer hikes than my previous ones, limited to the holidays.<br />
So, last week, I flew to Bristol in order to embark on a 12 days hike along the South West Coast Path, from Padstow (Cornwall) to Minehead (Somerset) (270 km).<br />
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Unfortunately, at the end of the third leg, I didn't feel well at all. I don't know if it was due to the effect of the oceanic iodine (I suffer of a light hyperthyroidism) or to the exhaustion (it is a really tough path) or a combination of both or whatever.<br />
I was a bit concerned about the symptoms and, anyway, I didn't feel in the mode to continue the trip any further. Thus I went to Bristol and flew back home.<br />
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On the whole I walked a little bit more than 50 km, from Padstow to Crackington Haven, stopping in Port Isaac, Tintagel and Crackington Haven.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEineG8cqRk-5lILeEaPLGscjGJ3DpEE7cBNj7i9wPxhH5-hXfSDS8mzwVZIltm1qSMMl2BpzVVMEmUMwaSujsfGAD-3Q7oTy74wBZJ5xWOXKZtL8EqK5r70boO6UBy1ViItbVezP54z8MM/s1600/P5230104.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEineG8cqRk-5lILeEaPLGscjGJ3DpEE7cBNj7i9wPxhH5-hXfSDS8mzwVZIltm1qSMMl2BpzVVMEmUMwaSujsfGAD-3Q7oTy74wBZJ5xWOXKZtL8EqK5r70boO6UBy1ViItbVezP54z8MM/s320/P5230104.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>I must confess that although the coast was pretty gorgeous, I am afraid that after a few more days I would have found it a bit monotonous.<br />
I found the North Cornish Coast rather similar to Pembrokeshire (I mean the coastal landscape) but more affected by tourism. So, even if Cornish villages are definitely nicer than Welsh ones, I liked better the Pembrokeshire Coast Path: I am keen on unspoilt area.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLPZayn7OG80fpOylEgezLsY8XEPgiGbDbCrWVghRpC7GLdgPEVDcz86k6ldeEu2pIlT9vqg3K3jNiy2QlOADzIILnhzpI11fbA8WiSXAucNMvC8llQAN0feo_9u_KB5hJ_j88rYqkUNI/s1600/P5230093.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLPZayn7OG80fpOylEgezLsY8XEPgiGbDbCrWVghRpC7GLdgPEVDcz86k6ldeEu2pIlT9vqg3K3jNiy2QlOADzIILnhzpI11fbA8WiSXAucNMvC8llQAN0feo_9u_KB5hJ_j88rYqkUNI/s320/P5230093.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Mind you, gentle reader, the SWCP is <b>really very tough</b>. The coast is generally high but, at any stream (and there are so many), the path drops abruptly down to sea level and then rises steeply again. But what makes it definitely exhausting is the shape of the path. Very often, instead to go up and down in hairpin way in order to have a more gradual ascent it goes straight on and, moreover, often through very high steps. The knees get hurt going down and the muscles strain quite hard during the ascent.<br />
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<b>ABOUT THE GEAR</b> <br />
<br />
The main difference between the gear I carried in this last hike and that of the previous one (see <a href="http://longdistancewalking-sergio.blogspot.com/2010/10/from-velay-to-cevennes-variations-on.html">Cévennes</a>) concerns mattress and rucksack. I replaced the closed cell foam mat (Z-Lite) with an air mattress (Thermarest Neo Air) which is about the same weight but, being very compact when deflated, has the advantage to fit in a smaller and lighter rucksack. So I replaced the Golite Jam-2 rucksack (51 l. and 700 g.) with Gossamer Gear Murmur (35 l. and 202 g.) which, besides being pretty lighter, is definitely more comfortable because its better weight distribution.<br />
Moreover, in my quest for the ideal ultralight walking, I saved some more weight dropping mug, fuel, lighter and instant coffee: studying the map I realized that even if I had to camp I could soon find a place where to have a coffee in the morning; which for me is sacrosant.<br />
But although I saved some hundreds of grams, eventually, the total weight I carried was nearly the same as that of the previous hike. In fact, having planned to walk many more days I carried much more food.<br />
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A doleful remark: my Innov-8 Rocklite 318 GTX trail shoes have once again revealed some flaws.<br />
Firstly one cushion collapsed on the inner side causing a light inflammation to the foot and the ankle.<br />
Secondly, although due to their Goretext membrane they are advertised as waterproof, after about two hours of moderate rain my feet were thoroughly soaked. Luckily, at the inn where I stayed, the heating was working!<br />
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So if there is any walker luckier than myself in finding a really waterproof light shoe, I beg him to tell me about it.<br />
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<b>PROJECTS</b><br />
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I have already organized for next August a six day hike along part of the Ridgeway and the Thames path with my daughters and my wife.<br />
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For the next solos I am considering GR 7 Alpujarras section. I would like to go there when the almond trees are in blossom but I am wondering if in February, at about 1000 m., it is not too cold to camp. So, once again, if some gentle reader has been there, please tell me about.<br />
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In Autumn I would like to hike from Città di Castello (where I was born) to Florence (where I have spent the most important part of my life). There is not a well defined trail. One has to design it oneself and there are many choices about the route to follow.<br />
One simple, but tough and probably not the most beautiful route is to climb to the top of the Apennines directly from Città di Castello (about 15 km.) and then follow the ridge up to Florence region where to drop into the city.<br />
An other route, which seems to me more attractive, is to follow the river Tiber up to Monterchi than to pass by Anghiari, Caprese Michelangelo, Badia Prataglia, Vallombrosa. Then drop down to the stream Sieve from where to climb to Settignano. From Settignato it is possible to catch a bus for Florence or follow a large footpath with many steps which goes down to Rovezzano in the outskirts of Florence.Sergio Baldellihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14895701664855290571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8036933995508136555.post-12532519635531350522010-10-01T15:29:00.011+02:002011-01-14T11:14:53.263+01:00From Velay to Cévennes - Variations on Stevenson's Trail and Régordane Way<div><br />
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</div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisZMBX2leoOaPK9wuuzSgwK_FLwyIsTz2OKRNdwaN0kDfvbd2OnmVarpmpSI7i7oXgCjkhDFIGXesiYZcWIry-GbBRp8MvTpoy09zymGYIrFm2_EugcIgLcZFbBokOJf3MP-dJiJGx5Wc/s320/P9160443.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Régordane Way</td></tr>
</tbody></table><b><span style="font-size: small;">INTRO</span></b><br />
<br />
I am just back from a six days southbound hike over the Eastern side of French <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Massif_Central">Massif Central</a>, from Haute Loire to Gard, through Lozère. <br />
Since I started long distance walking in September 2007, this is the first time I have hiked outside Great Britain. One might wonder why. <br />
Well, among the rational motives, I would only mention that, from abroad, is pretty much easier to plan a long distance walk in Britain than in France; in particular, because there are more and better on line resources (I have already explained why I <a href="http://longdistancewalking-sergio.blogspot.com/2007/09/why-england.html">don't hike in Italy</a>).<br />
<br />
The special feeling I have with Old England and the unique and unforgettable experience of my first long hike (<a href="http://longdistancewalking-sergio.blogspot.com/2007/10/why-england-conclusion.html">Norfolk</a>) can definitely be reckoned among the most relevant inspirations. <br />
It might seem incredible but the only European country which I find quite outlandish is the selfsame England!<br />
Apart from the difference of language, I feel quite familiar in France, Belgium, Germany, etc while, in England, it is almost as I lived in a romance or a novel of old. Probably, there are also other inexplicable reasons.<br />
But, I am going astray, back to the matter! <br />
<br />
<br />
<b>A SHORT DESCRIPTION OF THE HIKE</b><br />
<br />
I would have liked to walk the whole Stevenson's Trail (252 km.) or the Régordane Way (240 km.) but I had only one week of vacation available so I made a kind of short melange: some stretches of the above ways mixed with other trails or country lanes or even roads.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMJuZUJ7_SJ-CeocY87Dy2GPo8-OQtUIDVjPhEyUbFe_yjmE-_klqNiEMQNITpksQXT3OTuvg-2GY_5U3_7Lr89vCuIQvwJu4LFRxk8-Qc5Dh1rgbphiTNVdxwNriF_0Sph_mAi-OSh9A/s128/P9110245.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Cathedral of Le Puy</td></tr>
</tbody></table><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMJuZUJ7_SJ-CeocY87Dy2GPo8-OQtUIDVjPhEyUbFe_yjmE-_klqNiEMQNITpksQXT3OTuvg-2GY_5U3_7Lr89vCuIQvwJu4LFRxk8-Qc5Dh1rgbphiTNVdxwNriF_0Sph_mAi-OSh9A/s1600/P9110245.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br />
I set out from Le-Puy-en-Velay on Monday, 12 September and walked 19 km. of the GR 430 (GR: <i>grande randonnée</i> i.e. long distance trail) up to Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille in Haute Loire (where I spent the night at the Auberge des Acacias, a small neat and lovely hotel. € 45 en suite b.i.).<br />
In the train from St. Etienne to Le Puy there where a lot of walkers but, probably, most of them were bound to San Iacopo de Compostela: I met very few hikers along my route.<br />
An over-sixty lady takes place in front of me and, as we both carry rucksacks we soon start chatting. She is just retired and she is going to Compostela (1,500 Km.). I feel a tender compassion glancing at her huge and heavy rucksack. She is even wearing sandals, carrying a pair of boots in the rucksack which I reckon to be weighing over 15 Kg.! It is her first long distance walking; I try to give her some advice on the importance to be as light as possible and she says that she will probably ship back home some gear if she realizes to be unessential. I wouldn't seem an ultra-light-backpacking evangelist but, as I read on a <a href="http://www.randonner-leger.org/forum/viewtopic.php?pid=73246">French web-site</a> on the topic: "A heavy rucksack is a rucksack crammed with anguish - Freud"<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghqruSrMkdRojiKdm95DV-0Vm8zXEHWCAFOVN1wAWRIn6F7cmsnnmPJDwKC1kFRvLAR2e0lfuv8i74UMBGNiHwzbLOTcbJ2Fdh7Ek3vdFrYo7MTHXfdgnMGvKy7Jtk1fscx_1uVJHbPK8/s128/P9130305.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Loire at Goudet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>On Monday, 13 September I walked from Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille to Landos (less than 25 Km.), crossing the Loire at Goudet. I followed the GR 70 (Stevenson's Trail) up to Ussel. Then I got to Landos shortcutting by country roads. Mind you: from Stevenson's booklet <i>A Travel with a Donkey in the Cévennes</i>, we know the places where he went but not the ways he took.<br />
Therefore the official route is a sort of hypothetical reconstruction to which one shouldn't feel obliged to stick too strictly.<br />
So from Ussel I followed the D 491 (D stands for <i>Départementale</i>: numbered local road) where cars passed each quarter of an hour. Eventually, through the D 88 I got to Landos where I stayed at the <i>Gîtes d'étape communal </i>(a sort of youth hostel managed by the town council). For € 12 I had the luxury of a four beds en suite room (with kitchenette) only for me (few people walking in the area in September).<br />
Landos is a small village but there is a nice romanesque church with "comb belfry" (<i>clocher à peigne</i>) typical of the area.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm3ExZG1BTKJJnObNwXMXr6Yj64Xva470kXkDj3_y35NuYmKi7h24gCm9DDkxZCZs5bmEy2j2O5QZLykiCNi6RP4CWCcbWp80uxTB0O5xaSuoBqVVcLADA7tMIQaKVrferomsTVuDu_lU/s128/P9140370.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Régordane Gate at Pradelles</td></tr>
</tbody></table>On Tuesday, 14 September I set out from Landos and again I took a non canonical route shorter than the Régordane Way. I reached the latter at Les Uffernets and then I sticked to it as far as Langogne (19 Km.). I stopped for a meal at a rather shabby restaurant in Pradelles, a nice though austere mountain stone village. In Langogne I stayed at the "Modest Inn" (the pun should sound familiar to the reader of the mentioned Stevenson's booklet: Modestine being the she donkey who carried the writer's pack). It is a full of books <i>chambre d’hôte</i> (i.e. B&B) run by Philippe, a nice southern Frenchman. I had my breakfast with a couple of French walkers I met again along the route.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi07EQ9CEoaPItgTRiPyRILq6imxp4oA8M1f9MB-p9ZFSvtnyP_mF9GtjlkAaO7479A2Y701beEXMaiTmTTX-Lr3xVLR-ftFbgP2sPhbOZiGiX_BmD5So2QJIRaOpXxzUKJAGaqksSTkyk/s128/P9140374.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Langogne Grain Hall</td></tr>
</tbody></table><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi07EQ9CEoaPItgTRiPyRILq6imxp4oA8M1f9MB-p9ZFSvtnyP_mF9GtjlkAaO7479A2Y701beEXMaiTmTTX-Lr3xVLR-ftFbgP2sPhbOZiGiX_BmD5So2QJIRaOpXxzUKJAGaqksSTkyk/s128/P9140374.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a>In Langogne, at last, I could buy a pair of insoles: I had forgotten to insert the original ones in my shoes before leaving home and in the long run it hurt! Actually it went even worse because the insoles I found didn't breathe and I soon got blisters!<br />
<br />
Wednesday, 15 September. Cold (8° C.) but beautiful crispy blue sky. Perfect for walking. I climb from Langogne through pastures, then, I walk mainly through forests on the uplands (over 1,000 m.). Soon I leave the Stevenson's Trail and follow the Régordane Way. A short rest, the time to eat some plums and cheese. Suddenly the air and the flora change; I am now on the Mediterranean side; the ground is dry, more similar to Italy.<br />
At Luc castle I met the couple of this morning breakfast. We take photos and we stop for a coffee at the local <i>café</i>. They move on before me: they want to stay at Notre-Dame-des-Neiges, like Stevenson. I walk leisurely directly to La Bastide where, for € 44,00, I take <i>demi-pension</i> (half-board) at Les Genêts, a basic, neat and functional hotel. The today leg has been of about 23 Km.<br />
The hotel is full of middle-aged walkers, probably doing circular hikes in the area. I chat with a Frenchman from Strasbourg who is walking the whole Stevenson's Trail. He carries a rucksack weighing more than 12 Kg.! He seems a bit puzzled when I tell him that mine is no more than 5,5 Kg. water, food and camping gear included.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAbUf0f0q_ZTKwq_QjkS7rDPIn4tU1wS_pdOPPed_p5x8vw5uWRMWFXqpyYc1j6DBPVxCSJoabAm-P0ros8oZ0Euw2tILW9VfUP08opvJMDlKIgiFkRY1xbyIShnuXOURbfU4Z-4M1E3E/s128/P9160522.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Garde-Guérin</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg21QWrJgZ7XnZ63cbahyphenhyphenS8PwRmOCvLNFf3rM4hoYzL04Xy8EibjEnWRyNeNYRyfdTrdxnHbcX0m1AXGvZ9Kiecthhf7rfJJn8Ks8LT0tsA3yelQUZR3RLg6RboaMES5YJ-VEjOyeKWAOE/s128/DSC03136.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Posing with Savoyard Hikers</td></tr>
</tbody></table><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg21QWrJgZ7XnZ63cbahyphenhyphenS8PwRmOCvLNFf3rM4hoYzL04Xy8EibjEnWRyNeNYRyfdTrdxnHbcX0m1AXGvZ9Kiecthhf7rfJJn8Ks8LT0tsA3yelQUZR3RLg6RboaMES5YJ-VEjOyeKWAOE/s128/DSC03136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a>Thursday, 16 September. After La Bastide, I walk at last, on the true Régordane Way: a trail excavated on the stone with evident cart tracks which the legend (<i>Le Charroi de Nîmes</i>)<i> </i>ascribes to the passage of Guillaume d'Orange, with a cart full of armed men, directed to reconquer Nîmes (see first picture on this post). I stop for a bite at rustic B&B (Albespeyre) where I share the table with two couples from Savoy. It turns up that the men are two brothers of Italian stock. Descendants of old emigrants from the Italian Alps (near Bergamo). We have a nice and friendly chat and we discuss even the present distracted times of Italian politics. I pose with them for a photo. They start before me but I meet them later at La Garde-Guérin, a lovely medieval walled village.<br />
Eventually, I spend the night in a pretty shabby hotel at Villefort, where I arrive exhausted after 22 Km. of walking manly on loose stones tracks. I am so tired and disheartened because of the pain from blisters ache that I am resolved to finish there and get the train to Nîmes the following morning.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj38P7fx5Hz46jlOwBMpbVhHcuLDTIhuXChD273IxZHj13fTnZ_uAhYhfZoXE8GkLaBpEYUbJHyG9H99drC0MHCrCnreSV0kwjxQsfoMDMneg47AYxIt-5QjdfI2im_dxMrakXZeuezEm4/s200/P9170615.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="200" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Cévennes</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Friday, 17 September. The arnica ointment has done miracles: nearly no more pain from the blisters! So, I decide to continue the hike. But, instead of following the Régordane - which now runs mainly on a valley - I take the GR 68. I climb the steep ascent to the ridge where wonderful views open over the Cévennes. A sea of mountains and forests as the eye can see!<br />
On the ridge the going is easy: always on tracks but for the peak of Le Bousquillou (1,115 m.) where I have some trouble in finding the path among dense brooms and in scrambling a rocky descent. At the end of the scramble I meet three middle-aged ladies bound to Villefort who ask me information about the difficulties of the route. <br />
Eventually, in the late afternoon, after a very strenuous descent on loose stones mule track, I get to Génolhac: the end of my journey.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr3B5z5MCkLgWKu9E1OnokbFXJDYajhM0Ma4BqmTClByTqBitRRGxjUf93IaHNVRBBYOktdCimqKcO4phEfx8-Rt38-f3QLy1rnWaHP7TnjBUJP2nnPXcJBCM5cTkSEGwzAqJmgIP6JJY/s200/P9170628.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="200" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Génolhac</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The leg (c. 25 Km.) has been particularly hard but worthwhile: probably the best of the whole hike.<br />
I find a room at the at <i>Le Commerce</i> (€ 32 w.b.), a basic hotel where I feel back to the fifties.<br />
<br />
All the following day I am excrutiated by a violent headache: too much gluten in French breakfasts? Sadly I cannot enjoy the lovely and lively city of Nîmes where I spend the afternoon before going to catch my flight at Lyon Airport.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>LONG DISTANCE WALKING IN FRANCE AND BRITAIN COMPARED</b><br />
<br />
It is probably wrong to compare but I cannot resist to put down some reflections I made on my journal.<br />
The landscape I saw in this French hike is probably more varied (I am starting with the positive aspects) than the average one I saw during my walks in Britain. The weather is definitely drier! Grocer's shops are easier to find and, generally, they are better-stocked.<br />
<br />
On the other end, while British villages are almost always well kept and harmonious, in the French area where I have walked the villages are a bit like in Southern Italy: old splendors mixed with buildings of any shape and style.<br />
<br />
There are other aspects similar to Italy. During my hike in France I have never walked a path in a meadow among cattle or flocks nor in any evident private land. In Britain, even let alone the special custom of Scotland, one walks mostly on private land. The right of way seems something impossible in France or Italy. Probably, while in Britain there is a consolidated awareness of the citizen's respect for other's property, in France as in Italy there is a sort of mistrust and jealousy of landowners who, at least in the latter country, tend to obstruct even public footpaths (see the relevant topic on <a href="http://longdistancewalking-sergio.blogspot.com/2007/09/why-england.html">old post</a>).<br />
<br />
An other difference I have noted concerns wildlife: I have seen in France very few animals; it is like they were scared by humans. Besides, in some area, there were many hunters.<br />
British dogs are different as well: in Britain I have very seldom heard barking while in France, like in Italy, each time I passed near a house or a farm I was welcome by furious barking. I passed even before a farm from whose open gates got out two big nasty looking dogs advancing towards me with threatening mien. Luckily they stopped in front of my aggressive insults!<br />
<br />
Public transport is sparser in France than in England. Trains are equally expensive but, in Britain, one has the resource of a dense network of relatively cheap coaches and buses.<br />
The I.G.N. 1:25 000 maps are fine but, apart of named trails (GR, GRP and PR) there isn't any indication of right of way. Ordnance Survey maps trace in green any right of way, even related to the smallest footpath. <br />
<br />
In Britain there is such a wealth of on line information that planning a hike goes on so smoothly!<br />
Let alone <a href="http://www.nationaltrail.co.uk/">National Trail web site</a>, one can find descriptions, maps, leaflets, etc for a huge number of other trails; from a couple of hours stroll to a thousand miles hike. Let me only mention <a href="http://www.ldwa.org.uk/">The Long Distance Walkers Association</a> which, among other things, allows you to find walk through various queries, combining distance, area, etc.<br />
Nothing comparable exists for French trails. Even planning hikes from scratch it is not that easy. Actually, IGN (<i>Institut Géographique National</i>) allows only text <a href="http://loisirs.ign.fr/selectionProduit.do?ref=5292357">search</a> for its 1:25 000 maps (by town or place or grid reference). Sadly, no visual search on scalable maps is available, as at <a href="http://leisure.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/shopbylocation/384286/485714/350000/GB/all">Ordnance Survey</a>. The only tool that might help is <a href="http://loisirs.ign.fr/documentArticle.do?idDoc=5282529&siteId=5059600"><i>ITINERAIRES DE GRANDES RANDONNEES EN FRANCE</i></a>, a 1:1 000 000 map showing all the long distance trails of France.<br />
<br />
I hope I have not been too biased in my comparison. Anyway it has been a wonderful hike!<br />
<br />
<b>THE GEAR</b><br />
<br />
When I look back to the 8 Kg. gear of my first long distance walk, I can appreciate the progress I have made along the way to ultra light backpacking: on this hike I have carried a rucksack a little bit heavier than 5 Kg. but with camping gear included and the luxury of Stevenson's booklet.<br />
For more details you can look at list below and compare it with that of my <a href="http://longdistancewalking-sergio.blogspot.com/2007/10/gear.html">first long distance walk</a>.<br />
Let me add here just some comments about the lightening process which results from my experience and that of others as well. <br />
<ul><li>Eliminated anything not absolutely indispensable: map case, pedometer, pyjama, shorts, spare glasses, emergency blanket, shirt, dental paste and floss, dried apricots and sesame bars.</li>
<li>Reduced the number of items: 1 t-shirt instead than 2; 2 pants instead of 5; 1 ricecakes packet instead than 2; 2 pairs of socks instead than 6.</li>
<li>Replaced some articles with less heavier ones: Quechua heavy fleece (551 g.) by Montane Prism 2.0 Jacket (420 g. and windproof extra!); Quechua 40 l. rucksack (1,800 g.) by Jam 2 Golite (51 l. 700 g.); Quechua torch (75 g.) by Photon Micro-Light II LED Keychain Flashlight (9 g.).</li>
<li>Replaced two items by one multifunction item: e.g. waterproof jacket and rucksack rain cover by a poncho.</li>
</ul>Now, if somebody took pains to calculate the balance between the two configurations he would find more than only 3 kg. The early greater difference, due to the above lightening process, has been reduced by the items I have been obliged to add in order to camp. Beside, the mentioned poncho (wich actually works as a tent as well) now I carry also: tent harness, pole and pegs; metal mug; solid fuel tablets; lighter; mat (which works as rucksack stiffner as well); sleeping bag; towel; an extra fleece for cold nights camp and, finally, thermometer-compass.<br />
<br />
For the sake of details eager backpackers or of anybody else, I conclude this post with the list of gear I have carried during this last hike.<br />
<br />
<table border="0" cellspacing="0" cols="6" frame="VOID" rules="NONE"><colgroup><col width="283"></col><col width="63"></col><col width="70"></col><col width="87"></col><col width="94"></col><col width="94"></col></colgroup> <tbody>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="34" rowspan="2" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);" valign="MIDDLE" width="283"><i>Item</i></td> <td align="LEFT" rowspan="2" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);" valign="MIDDLE" width="63"><i>Weight per unit</i></td> <td align="LEFT" rowspan="2" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);" valign="MIDDLE" width="70"><i>Number worn</i></td> <td align="LEFT" rowspan="2" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);" valign="MIDDLE" width="87"><i>Number in rucksack</i></td> <td align="LEFT" rowspan="2" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);" valign="MIDDLE" width="94"><i>Total weight worn</i></td> <td align="LEFT" rowspan="2" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);" valign="MIDDLE" width="94"><i>Total weight in rucksack</i></td> </tr>
<tr> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Camera</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">121</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">121</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">0</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Camera battery spare</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">15</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">3</td> <td align="LEFT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">45</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Canteen</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">29</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="LEFT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">29</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Cell phone</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">77</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">77</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">0</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Cell phone battery charger</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">43</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="LEFT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">43</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Chocolate bar</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">106</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="LEFT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">106</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Cleenex</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">27</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">27</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">27</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Coffee (instant)</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">2</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">10</td> <td align="LEFT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">20</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Cutlery</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">39</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="LEFT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">39</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Documents (guides, maps, etc.)</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">424</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">0</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">424</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Fleece light (Montane)</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">231</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">0</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">231</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Fleece light Active (Montane)</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">257</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="LEFT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">257</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Hat</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">107</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">107</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">0</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Jacket (Montane Prism 2.0)</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">421</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="LEFT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">421</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Lighter</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">10</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="LEFT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">10</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Mat (Thermarest Z-Lite)</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">387</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="LEFT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">387</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Medicine</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">120</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="LEFT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">120</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Mug (Tibetan Titanium 450)</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">75</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">0</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">75</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Notebook</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">32</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">32</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">0</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Pants</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">28</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">28</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">28</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Pen</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">11</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">11</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">0</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Poncho-Shelter (Gatewood Cape)</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">323</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">0</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">323</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Rice cakes</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">124</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">0</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">124</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Rucksack (Golite Jam 2)</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">700</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">0</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">700</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Sewing kit</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">8</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">0</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">8</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Shoes (Inov-8 Roclite 318 GTX)</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">636</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">636</td> <td align="LEFT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Sleeping Bag (W. Mountan. HighLite)</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">499</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">0</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">499</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Socks</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">78</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">78</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">78</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Solid Fuel (Esbit)</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">85</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">0</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">85</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">T-shirt</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">134</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">0</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">134</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">0</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Tent Harness</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">20</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">0</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">20</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Tent Pegs</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">10</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">6</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">0</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">60</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Tent Pole</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">55</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">0</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">55</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Thermometer-Compass (Recta Micro)</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">10</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">10</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">0</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Tooth brush</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">15</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">0</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">15</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Torch (Photon Micro-Light II)</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">9</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">9</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">9</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Towel</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">48</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">0</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">48</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Walking trousers</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">374</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">374</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">0</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Wallet</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">143</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">143</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">0</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">Water 1 l.</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1,000</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br />
</td> <td align="CENTER" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">0</td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);">1,000</td> </tr>
<tr> <td align="LEFT" height="17" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><b><i>Total (in grams)</i></b></td> <td align="LEFT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><b><i><br />
</i></b></td> <td align="LEFT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><b><i><br />
</i></b></td> <td align="LEFT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><b><i><br />
</i></b></td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><b><i>1,666</i></b></td> <td align="RIGHT" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0);"><b><i>5,286</i></b></td> </tr>
</tbody> </table></div>Sergio Baldellihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14895701664855290571noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8036933995508136555.post-64589635507664986722010-07-31T17:02:00.071+02:002010-08-18T14:14:32.032+02:00Wandering through Cheshire<div style="text-align: right;"></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlqaESBIf2tJLqeJz9IW8LPfMtTOBevLNTEDB5LvRIZp51EIz8MF0gJCVLkbn-OC3rKnnUmxLOgD_uBZOBGu_HRs7AouNABqBg_0STdi983XxK0EuybJtf86C_K-_61745UzzQdjp5TOY/s1600/P7160016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlqaESBIf2tJLqeJz9IW8LPfMtTOBevLNTEDB5LvRIZp51EIz8MF0gJCVLkbn-OC3rKnnUmxLOgD_uBZOBGu_HRs7AouNABqBg_0STdi983XxK0EuybJtf86C_K-_61745UzzQdjp5TOY/s200/P7160016.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chester - B&W Houses</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">At last I am back again!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">I have been silent for quite a long time. I usually set out for a long distance walk two times a year. Sadly, because various illnesses, I haven't been able to walk since Spring 2009.</div><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>A new (for me) way of walking</b></span><br />
<br />
This last stroll has been quite different from the previous ones (note, by the way, the term "wandering" of the title): I have tried to shift the focus from the <b>goal</b> to the <b>action</b> or, better still, as the father of backpacking says:<br />
<br />
<blockquote><span style="font-size: x-small;">For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move; to feel the needs and hitches of our life more nearly; to come down off this feather-bed of civilisation, and find the globe granite underfoot and strewn with cutting flints. </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">[R.L. Stevenson, <a href="http://en.wikisource.org/wiki/Travels_with_a_Donkey_in_the_C%C3%A9vennes#CHEYLARD_AND_LUC"><i>Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes</i></a>].</span></blockquote><br />
</div>In the previous hikes the end of the trail was my goal and, moreover, I was obliged to stick to the planned legs, being bound to the accommodations booked long time before.<span style="font-size: x-small;"></span><br />
<br />
<br />
In the end, I have found that that approach spoils somehow the pleasure of walking. So I decided that, first of all, I should get rid of the reservations constraint. Therefore I changed my gear in order to be able to camp anytime I couldn't or wouldn't spend the night at some accommodation.<br />
<br />
<blockquote><span style="font-size: x-small;">I was determined, if not to camp out, at least to have the means of camping out in my possession; for there is nothing more harassing to an easy mind than the necessity of reaching shelter by dusk, and the hospitality of a village inn is not always to be reckoned sure by those who trudge on foot. [R.L. Stevenson, <a href="http://en.wikisource.org/wiki/Travels_with_a_Donkey_in_the_C%C3%A9vennes#THE_DONKEY.2C_THE_PACK.2C_AND_THE_PACK-SADDLE/"><i>Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes</i></a>].</span></blockquote><br />
Apart from the night I arrived from Italy, I didn't book any accommodation at all. So, I was able to change my route or to finish the leg as the whim took me.<br />
<br />
<br />
In fact, I camped only once; the other ones I found some kind of accommodation.<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>The Gear</b></span><br />
<br />
Obviously, this change of method and my quest for lightness, have driven me to modify my gear.<br />
<br />
<b>Shelter</b><br />
<br />
Following the multifunctional ultralight approach, I didn't choose a tent (regardless of its lightness) but something that could also work as a waterproof: a cape-tent.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYBnGt9GoqCh85367FnMlYHTRhjmnZ5EFzMuQGsKmZ0hI70gAAnwObMH9rcEhznTolZMroRR-S9Mfq_MgRrTi6sjqnLekBltQnlPqucBTe8Q1IU1H1QFIXmmW8AR2Z9MwaCI9vREci0SE/s1600/P7160058.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYBnGt9GoqCh85367FnMlYHTRhjmnZ5EFzMuQGsKmZ0hI70gAAnwObMH9rcEhznTolZMroRR-S9Mfq_MgRrTi6sjqnLekBltQnlPqucBTe8Q1IU1H1QFIXmmW8AR2Z9MwaCI9vREci0SE/s200/P7160058.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gatewood Cape set up as a tent</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4EBJs00IXm2itXBngDNQ0TQG2kqx-YN0ODrEvzz70bsVvlgsnEVehZy1-obEfBj7RfOJl9griq_i_ZN9ksY2v8EP139e2XgXUCduuPhrgWfdQPW8JGeb1RXKtfwxm0YeoMYZdFbwdAIY/s1600/P7200118.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4EBJs00IXm2itXBngDNQ0TQG2kqx-YN0ODrEvzz70bsVvlgsnEVehZy1-obEfBj7RfOJl9griq_i_ZN9ksY2v8EP139e2XgXUCduuPhrgWfdQPW8JGeb1RXKtfwxm0YeoMYZdFbwdAIY/s200/P7200118.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gatewood Cape set up as a cape</td></tr>
</tbody></table>As the photos show I used the <a href="http://205.134.252.200/tarps.html?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage_smd.tpl&product_id=39&category_id=8">Gatewood Cape</a> by Six Moon Designs which works as a tent and a rainproof cape as well, for less than 400 grams, pole and stakes included.<br />
It resisted the rain but a lot of condensation during the night; I need to learn staking the front line for better ventilation.<br />
On the whole I am happy with this gear and I will continue to use it.<br />
<br />
<b>Sleeping bag</b><br />
<br />
I wanted to find something lighter than a traditional sleeping bag so I used Thermo-Lite 2.0 Bivy Sack by Adventure Medical Kits.<br />
Very light (190 g.) but too much condensation. At 4 p.m. I was nearly wet.<br />
So, for 265 g. more, I will shift to HighLite Sleeping Bag by Western Mountaineering (already ordered) rated to 2° C.<br />
For summer and not mountain hikes, I will balance the weight dropping the second fleece I carried for sleeping.<br />
<br />
<b>Sleeping mat</b><br />
<br />
I used Z-Lite, a closed-cell foam accordion-plying sleeping mat by Thermarest.<br />
It provided also a back stiffener for JAM 2 rucksack by GoLite, which I had stripped of its back foam.<br />
I am very happy with this mat: comfortable and incredibly isolating (even laid directly on damp forest ground).<br />
<br />
<b>Footwear</b><br />
<br />
During the last two hikes (Pennines Way and South Downs Way) I wore mid Lowa Renegade boots. Absolutely waterproof and breathable but a bit too heavy (550 g. each).<br />
So this time I used a lighter footwear (trail runner): Rocklite 318 GTX; very light (318 g. each), comfortable, high cushioning but less waterproof and breathable than Lowa Renegade.<br />
I will nonetheless continue to use them unless hiking very wet tracks like Pennines or Scotland where I will put on Lowa again.<br />
<br />
<b>Miscellaneous</b><br />
<br />
Waking up after a night in the cold and damp, one needs some warm beverage in order to get in good mood.<br />
So, I carried a very light mug (Tibetan Titanium), solid fuel tablets and instant coffee. A rewarding weight: never enjoyed a hot coffee so much!<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Short description of the hike</b></span><br />
<br />
<b>16 July 2010</b><br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgewJ9A5IyDc_OFcRIoA-vbmvOsUcPLZmRJ6xxnqQ1i1uIbK9dQX-H3sNo4Andh4UwXl7d0nZBrUB8ZlQql1NSfB-2pF81WdhN0TOAR3O4toZkpvm79ba-H7nAHGvYSEWlGARNEEAiEnvQ/s1600/P7160022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgewJ9A5IyDc_OFcRIoA-vbmvOsUcPLZmRJ6xxnqQ1i1uIbK9dQX-H3sNo4Andh4UwXl7d0nZBrUB8ZlQql1NSfB-2pF81WdhN0TOAR3O4toZkpvm79ba-H7nAHGvYSEWlGARNEEAiEnvQ/s200/P7160022.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">S.U. Canal - Chester</td></tr>
</tbody></table>From Chester to Bulkeley Hill, firstly along the Shropshire Union Canal then along the Sandstone Trail (23 km).<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><b>17 July 2010</b><br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsw_mhKdHSucmpA4OOd1PLoE0AudfTBhpTUyQhJGZpiv1pt-DQ30umnHYh8cw2klJkLCBX5nCWhmQHbiJlw0fOyWalVz5mHafbCMf_AFts5840ggkZaWfBCNbuY776F8HnK4SHLx2qjUA/s1600/P7170074.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsw_mhKdHSucmpA4OOd1PLoE0AudfTBhpTUyQhJGZpiv1pt-DQ30umnHYh8cw2klJkLCBX5nCWhmQHbiJlw0fOyWalVz5mHafbCMf_AFts5840ggkZaWfBCNbuY776F8HnK4SHLx2qjUA/s200/P7170074.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From the Sandstone Trail</td></tr>
</tbody></table>From Bulkeley Hill to Whitchurch, along the Sandstone Trail (20,5 km).<br />
<br />
<b>18 July 2010</b><br />
<br />
Stuck in hotel (Whitchurch) waiting footwear and garments to dry!<br />
I took a short-cutting footpath from the Sandstone Trail to Whitchrch, that, before getting to the town, ended in man high nettles and other weeds. There I fell head first into a knee deep dark slimy water of a ditch I hadn't seen because the tangle of weeds. I lost my glasses and I got to the town (trespassing a farm) all black smeared; a sort of alarming scarecrow! Luckily I found at once a basic hotel the landlord of which didn't fuss about my look.<br />
<br />
<b>19 July 2010</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg86JlVWydMpo6Ke4iywHjomcdjcshhwxKKXgZO2wJNRmtMy45mtCvrW58BRdE6m8IZ-EOUBpMBNhRT0lE1DQ1mu5Gs1RIC8jTXy9-1KAH3mow6qioaoRkpgqdtXLkUhLbBQhnn0mRE4bs/s1600/P7190103.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg86JlVWydMpo6Ke4iywHjomcdjcshhwxKKXgZO2wJNRmtMy45mtCvrW58BRdE6m8IZ-EOUBpMBNhRT0lE1DQ1mu5Gs1RIC8jTXy9-1KAH3mow6qioaoRkpgqdtXLkUhLbBQhnn0mRE4bs/s200/P7190103.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>From Nantwhich (got there by train) to Winsford along the Weaver Way (24 km).<br />
<br />
<b>20 July 2010</b><br />
<br />
FromWinsford to Northwich via Weaver Way (12 km).<br />
From Northwhich to Delamere by bus.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifGke3BM0FNuF_WZfPSkC5nLAUVAAI0pxjVX5Rp4qe5AT2pte54zT8Frewrl6LCsYLRnxPK84vA9QQKHIHiVZSK3kdXwL7zIGbc2-DqW1xYOBtf3L3cLsZW6eA6n0iaW7WRVJADEQZARk/s1600/P7200116.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifGke3BM0FNuF_WZfPSkC5nLAUVAAI0pxjVX5Rp4qe5AT2pte54zT8Frewrl6LCsYLRnxPK84vA9QQKHIHiVZSK3kdXwL7zIGbc2-DqW1xYOBtf3L3cLsZW6eA6n0iaW7WRVJADEQZARk/s200/P7200116.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Delamere Forest</td></tr>
</tbody></table>From Delamere to Frodsham along the Sandstone Trail (14 km).<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Conclusion</b></span><br />
<br />
Honestly, the excitement of this hike came especially from the new approach (see above).<br />
Delamere Forest is gorgeous, unfortunately I walked it under unrelenting heavy rain.<br />
Canals are very interesting (locks, manoeuvring, etc.) and often quite lovely but, in the long run, they tend to be slightly monotonous.<br />
Weaver Navigation between Northwich and Winsford is lovely but one must walk some miles in the ugly works area of the latter town.<br />
Chester and Nantwich are pretty nice; the other towns I have seen in the county are colourless and, sometimes, even a little bleak. I think it depends of lack of old history or de-industrialization.<br />
Lastly, with the exception of Chester, accommodation and refreshment along the trails are rather scanty.Sergio Baldellihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14895701664855290571noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8036933995508136555.post-67828257213606912252009-04-28T11:28:00.015+02:002009-04-28T15:40:50.144+02:00South Downs Way<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuFJ1-nd5-WxbEUY9oKLXSfJ1POlUZr1v2xwsGmKwBjF_puav8S1SLTzV0UbUW6h-ngXINpKUDss-w0SW2RrPvLEIk-XfN-3gFMfybM7VbkXmuTLvRVXrL5nde0HMQwn2OPmLPfBwsgcg/s1600-h/p4120277.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 298px; height: 223px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuFJ1-nd5-WxbEUY9oKLXSfJ1POlUZr1v2xwsGmKwBjF_puav8S1SLTzV0UbUW6h-ngXINpKUDss-w0SW2RrPvLEIk-XfN-3gFMfybM7VbkXmuTLvRVXrL5nde0HMQwn2OPmLPfBwsgcg/s320/p4120277.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5329727658375726674" border="0" /></a>From the 6th to the 12th of April, I walked the South Downs Way from Winchester to Eastbourne.<br /><br />The main novelty of this last hike is that I didn't do it solo but with my youngest daughter Beatrice.<br /><br />Unfortunately, for lack of suitable prior training, we weren't fit enough. So, at the end of the 5th day we were so tired that we skipped the next leg (from Pyecombe to Lewes).<br /><br />Apart from one whole misty day under heavy rain, we had always fine weather. Fresh but good for walking.<br /><br />We met nice people and we stayed in beautiful inns and hospitable B&Bs.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik5Su2CeVUJVl_IwJgNEg3uw3pPjsqJt11qK0UtpSWZVMtdZb0YzadVYOTZ5gTamewWZFzlcbAE-R4e5CtD87OVIEECyCfzB7rSui_8GYiUO2UjQcCP0O02wOGAGZGJmFDJk1SfY_zNP4/s1600-h/p4110200.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik5Su2CeVUJVl_IwJgNEg3uw3pPjsqJt11qK0UtpSWZVMtdZb0YzadVYOTZ5gTamewWZFzlcbAE-R4e5CtD87OVIEECyCfzB7rSui_8GYiUO2UjQcCP0O02wOGAGZGJmFDJk1SfY_zNP4/s200/p4110200.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5329735984443071058" border="0" /></a><br />As we advanced we were accompanied by the delightful song of skylarks and chaffinches.<br /><br />I really don't know why but, in the end, I found the South Downs Way the less exciting of all the hikes I've done in Britain.<br /><br />I took the opportunity of this last walking to improve the reduction of the gear weight.<br />I have gained 250 g. shifting from Ferrino Cumbre 35 l. rucksack to the Golite Jam2.<br />I found the latter less comfortable. But being frameless it needs something to stiffen it; e.g. a mattress which I didn't carry.<br />I gained some more grammes replacing the waterproof jacket and the rucksack cover by a poncho and a very light windproof.<br /><br />Thus far I have always stayed in B&B or inns. In the future I would like to be more free and not to be bound to legs depending on accommodations booked longtime beforehand.<br />Therefore I am considering to carry a light camping gear: a poncho-tarp, a foam mattress and sleeping bag.<br />But, before embarking in a tough trek abroad (e.g. Highlands) I would like to do some experiments near home in order to stop easily in case something should go wrong.<br />So, next Autumn I would like to walk a section of the Apennines trail (Grande Escursione Appenninica) from the southern border of Tuscany to Florence.<br /><br />As usually, I have taken some photos which are now available through the relevant links in the Trail Pictures section.Sergio Baldellihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14895701664855290571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8036933995508136555.post-80240264233217349822008-09-15T12:21:00.066+02:002008-09-22T22:58:39.769+02:00Pennine WayI've just finished walking a section of the Pennine Way: about 100 km in 5 days. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd5NsEkzNwwgvJRn6LeiruI6yV-53qEnYuBY9iCtxt-74enMJV4gMobPm4VZaV57NK9buJW-89XnxiQ9S_zk96YeyXAL7k7o0DoMJZtvE8VJaXev9VnW_2s9Gaji7CQlMSUK1o1P_I3OY/s1600-h/P9080242.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5247653205081080274" style="margin: 10px 10px 10px 10px; float: left;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd5NsEkzNwwgvJRn6LeiruI6yV-53qEnYuBY9iCtxt-74enMJV4gMobPm4VZaV57NK9buJW-89XnxiQ9S_zk96YeyXAL7k7o0DoMJZtvE8VJaXev9VnW_2s9Gaji7CQlMSUK1o1P_I3OY/s200/P9080242.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />My legs are still stiff and aching; I new it would have been tough or, at least, quite tougher than my previous hikes: Peddars Way and Pembrokeshire Coast Path.<br /><br />It is for that very reason that I decided to do it as soon as possible: being over 62 my strength can but lessen.<br /><br />Compared to the above mentioned hikes, I found the Pennine Way not only much tougher but pretty more difficult as well: route often hard to find, very boggy and even flooded paths.<br />I've got to add that, in order to reduce the number of days out, I stretched the legs to an average of 25/26 km; which on hills trails it revealed too tough for me.<br /><br />Anyway, like the other hikes, I enjoyed this one very much and I'm quite happy to have done it.<br /><br />Again I took a lot of pictures (more than 500); if you are interested, please, take a look at the gallery top-right. They are arrayed by leg.<br /><br />In contrast to the other hikes I did, Pennine Way was also more "adventurous". Let me just recount some of the main relevant events.<br /><br />In the afternoon of the first leg (Hebden Bridge - Cowling), when I was going down Ickornshaw Moor, my knees began to hurt so acutely that I couldn't even ply them and I was obliged to descend the hill walking sideways and quite slowly.<br />I was so exhausted that I was unable to find the track which, as a matter of fact, was not easy in the least. In that area, as rather often along the Pennine Way, the track is actually unmarked and the rare traces of other walkers were deleted by the water flowing everywhere after the last August heavy rains. The ground was so boggy and wet that one had to mind carefully each step.<br />The pain to the knees was due particularly to the lack of prior training: August having been too hot at home. The general exhaustion was the result also of a too long first day on the hills (26 km plus 2 more because lost track detours) and of a beginning of dehydratation (I had sweated a lot wearing waterproof vest and trousers because the heavy rain ).<br /><br />In short, as the day was starting to wear away, I began to fear of passing the night on the moor wrapped up in my safety blanket!<br /><br />Luckily Mike, an Irish walker living in Scotland, came up and was so kind as to help me walk up to the evening goal.<br />I am very grateful to Mike whom I met again several times in the following stages and I'm sorry that he couldn't end his journey because a severe blister.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgva8-Wup6eiWh_No1XME1JSFeNycgGwtD2WzWN9fmnqdOnNS4ZudJ2TkaPXPhKWhyMuFXrWqgEmeyRSQbCDuPJ2h3TNwZeOYr3yuLE_Q67HE9tDcXUaQRYs3mdtTwdn6meAO_67FWRNTA/s1600-h/P9080166.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5247653417509075842" style="margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; float: right; width: 173px; height: 136px;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgva8-Wup6eiWh_No1XME1JSFeNycgGwtD2WzWN9fmnqdOnNS4ZudJ2TkaPXPhKWhyMuFXrWqgEmeyRSQbCDuPJ2h3TNwZeOYr3yuLE_Q67HE9tDcXUaQRYs3mdtTwdn6meAO_67FWRNTA/s200/P9080166.jpg" width="158" border="0" height="119" /></a><br />While my other hikes were quite solitary, walking the Pennine Way was a pretty sociable event: I met several walkers some of them I became friend with. Beside Mike, already mentioned, I want to remember Steve and, particularly, Roger and his son Thomas who helped me to find the track I had lost over Malham Cove. Although I usually walked alone because difference of pace, I often met them again at the B&Bs and inns.<br /><br />Actually, the Pennine Way is partly an "invention". I mean that beside traditional more or less clear trails there are places, especially on the moorlands, where often there is no path at all.<br />There, one has to track other walkers' traces or relay on points of references (when available) or use a compass.<br />Sometimes, while the Pennine Way is barely perceivable, one meets secondary paths definitely more distinct which lure astray.<br />It is just what happened during my first leg, when, climbing towards Clough Head Hill, I loosed the track taking the only visible path on the right which, actually, bears away from the Pennine Way to the parking near the 68 road.<br />It was my first luck to meet soon a jogger which told me how to get to the Pennine Way again.<br /><br />On Stonesdale Moor the Pennine Way faded away again and it was only thanks to the road across the dale - the only point of reference - that I didn't totally get lost.<br />Later on, when the dusk was beginning to fall - making me rather anxious - the thin smoke column of Tan Hill Inn, appearing in the immense and void sea of moorlands, was to me like the shore vision for the seafarer. I think I will never forget that epiphany.<br /><br />Again, during the last leg, on top of Cotherstone Moor, the Pennine Way vanished. Luckily the weather was clear and I was able to point to the reservoir on the bottom of the dale where, after a careful walking through high tussocky grasses, I rejoined the Pennine Way.<br /><br />I won't mention the other minor track missing occurred during the trip.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">ABOUT THE GEAR</span><br /><br />When I gave back the soaking low walking boots I had used on Pembrokeshire I bought, partly with the refund, a pair of Lowa Renegade GTX Mid which I had read many positive reviews about.<br />I was puzzled whether to use them because their heels were too high for me, making my legs pain. I was almost decided to take the New Balance NB985 I used one year before in Norfolk which, although very comfortable from the point of view of the set, are poorly breathable and low.<br />I knew that the ground would be very wet and boggy so I rasped the Lowa heels in order to get a better set.<br />It proved to be a quite sensible choice: after three days of heavy rain and a week of walking on often flooded and very boggy paths, my feet remained always dry! With the New Balance I would have got my feet quite soaked.<br /><br />On the windy and cold tops of the hills I realized that there is no need of a heavy fleece: in my next trip I will replace it with a second light fleece to wear, in case, over the other one. I will be able thus to spare some more weight and space.<br /><br />My waterproof vest leaked around the right shoulder and, like the over-trousers, it is not breathable. This makes a lot of moisture climbing the hills: I am going to look for breathable waterproof garments; if they exits.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">SOME LEARNED</span><span style="font-weight: bold;"> LESSONS</span><br /><br />I must not start without a suitable preliminary training.<br /><br />On hill trails I must limit each leg to a maximum of 20/22 km.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">TIMELINE</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">September 5, 2008. Getting there</span> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUdotzSXZPM-KTeMwQmZB81_6L9XRU0QGLJpWF-8jhZOVYRmyFD4IBUvroFKee89zGN0yffrt-hHa1xjZueLlVdfnGvTsevxpphOjfzCI0l5Vx2ouZ-pnK_UgGifXR2YUK-lu3PDybGok/s1600-h/P9060004.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5247655184094092226" style="margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; float: right;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUdotzSXZPM-KTeMwQmZB81_6L9XRU0QGLJpWF-8jhZOVYRmyFD4IBUvroFKee89zGN0yffrt-hHa1xjZueLlVdfnGvTsevxpphOjfzCI0l5Vx2ouZ-pnK_UgGifXR2YUK-lu3PDybGok/s200/P9060004.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Flown from Rome-Cimpino to Liverpool. Got to Manchester by coach. Light lunch at the Soup Kitchen. Reached Hebden Bridge by train in the afternoon. Accommodation at the splendid 17th century old White Lion Hotel Inn.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">September 6, 2008. From Hebden Bridge to Cowling 28 km (with detours)</span><br />Short visit to Hebden Bridge waiting for breakfast time. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSAbzFAnMhnwzwSwsE4nJon-kbTrotoqWyzCUv0bPp0-sg9OJ54tdMhoBgsJtz1QktYoC4rv_i4sJNnb43upJKFpRbJMHStQoQ2cAZqma0J1u1KONSz24QeHGHxcQX-LODAhOcLptaVdU/s1600-h/P9060094.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5247654273859652898" style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; float: left;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSAbzFAnMhnwzwSwsE4nJon-kbTrotoqWyzCUv0bPp0-sg9OJ54tdMhoBgsJtz1QktYoC4rv_i4sJNnb43upJKFpRbJMHStQoQ2cAZqma0J1u1KONSz24QeHGHxcQX-LODAhOcLptaVdU/s200/P9060094.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Starded the walk under rain.<br />Lost track around Green Hill. Found again thanks to a jogger's help. Round 1 km detour.<br />Exhausted and painful knees (impossible to ply) on the afternoon over Ickorshaw Moor on flooded and boggy undistinguishable track. Got to Cowling thanks to Mike's help (Irish walker from Scotland).<br />Gone to bed without supper (too exhausted) at Susan & Sandy Black B&B: quite charming people.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">September 7, 2008. From Cowling to Malham (by bus)</span><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5247655475625426530" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; float: right; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsBAEAOpf2dpFvgLsnCQOp4z41LBgrb32njoLTirlbW9RrDQqwRzfytQxmTFU1yV1Yv91sD5zjnBARxdnYbSP5tUO7bu0w88n6JNfjgTm9Z6Z1ykKMXW9cuM1ahUxEpKi3NzDToYWrpt4/s200/P9070139.jpg" width="123" border="0" height="138" /><br />Need of rest. Got to Malham (planned stage) by busses (3). Warm soup at the local café. Checked-in at Beck Hall; nice B&B in an old building along the beck. Little walking to visit Janet's Foss and Gordon Scar (5 km). Dinner with a plate of vegetables at the local pub.<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">September 8, 2008. From Malham to Horton-in-Ribblesdale 23 km</span><br />Climbed Malham Cove where lost the track; found again thanks to Roger and Thomas. Climbed <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUGJgDwd_t6gTKE3tSJVmbnJ3d74LokKSsm6sVaNtxqIL85rQEy78tUG0K-qx2GPWI6kDherm27s60_pCW6wtBjMEtii-9JoGFjM0CmV9HqHtlIVHPCtLWVHshmpeQQgoc8S2idqlHQT0/s1600-h/P9080252.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5247656191079534226" style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; float: left;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUGJgDwd_t6gTKE3tSJVmbnJ3d74LokKSsm6sVaNtxqIL85rQEy78tUG0K-qx2GPWI6kDherm27s60_pCW6wtBjMEtii-9JoGFjM0CmV9HqHtlIVHPCtLWVHshmpeQQgoc8S2idqlHQT0/s200/P9080252.jpg" border="0" /></a>Fountains Fell (660 m.) under rain. Little trouble with cattle during snack halt. Climbed Pen-y-Ghent (694 m.) with rather fine weather. Got to Horton-in-Ribblesdale tired but not as in the first day. Crown Hotel very nice old inn where I had a drink with the other walkers already met: Mike, Steve, Roger and Thomas.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">September 9, 2008. From Horton-in-Ribblesdale to Hardraw 24 km</span><br /><br />Rain during half day. Climbed Dodd Fell (600 m.). Walked in thick mist during 3 hours: luckily <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgusT6ItcPtSc0xDggdZm-zn85a1-fARX2nh5BZyPWwhFpqLv5m8aCoSrizOH8xnTFnjlueqcgSoTeaYKSudNy5dx-4xErPgrJGcKSZsxQOyfS8zVEiuBQFPPHezaicRxwN-u888_4KgdI/s1600-h/P9090308.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5247656769188466594" style="margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; float: right;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgusT6ItcPtSc0xDggdZm-zn85a1-fARX2nh5BZyPWwhFpqLv5m8aCoSrizOH8xnTFnjlueqcgSoTeaYKSudNy5dx-4xErPgrJGcKSZsxQOyfS8zVEiuBQFPPHezaicRxwN-u888_4KgdI/s200/P9090308.jpg" border="0" /></a>clear track and clear weather again on the moor before Hawes where the way is trackable only looking carefully for recent traces of other walkers. Cake and Coffee in Hawes, nice town. Dinner with a bowl of chips and a bitter at the Dragon Hotel where I stayed: beautiful old inn whith fire in the bar and in breakfast lounge. Long chat with charming customers.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">September 10, 2008. From Hardraw to Tan Hill 26 km</span><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2lqRbnI6utMrGorTiZbBJ0HS44ueVuBgTwO5Se0Mbk0unHgXsPUjL_uqh83tlwswSUf6-gVo4HEVAEGlovKeX4AdMcCxXkhRL0aRd_awqmhQiIKRahZFQBnY8Tkhdfb4rv2CcmX6av5o/s1600-h/P9100396.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5247657367095032914" style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; float: left;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2lqRbnI6utMrGorTiZbBJ0HS44ueVuBgTwO5Se0Mbk0unHgXsPUjL_uqh83tlwswSUf6-gVo4HEVAEGlovKeX4AdMcCxXkhRL0aRd_awqmhQiIKRahZFQBnY8Tkhdfb4rv2CcmX6av5o/s200/P9100396.jpg" border="0" /></a>Fine weather all day. Climbed Great Shunner Fell (716 m. the highest of my trip). Met a lot of walkers, even a girl on solo. Coffee and cake at Keaton Hotel in Thwaite around 13:00. Very tired. Little anxiety on Stonesdale Moor where the path fades away. Bearing thanks to the road visible on the left. Got to Tan Hill a bit before dusk: quite relieved. Tan Hill Inn very nice old inn with fire and charming landlord; celtic music. Met Roger and Thomas for the last time being their trip end. Roger offerd me a whisky: very nice. I was alone in the bunk house; need to pass by the kitchen in order to get there. Windy and rainy night; little discouraged, almost made up my mind to give up the last leg.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">September 11, 2008. From Tan Hill to Middleton in Teesdale 26 km</span><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2c1AMNFTvzuLct79nDnYENG_tvymGosrpD7uRibPbzAKOocgh7g3SxLLLIxTYRAZpv5kZBP99dZBrrUJsXaRcJ-EzKi9dtvfaNb26c_Dc58KyGLwxSJ3QTlF8s8N5E_VZHFhmW7CTGt4/s1600-h/P9110529.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5247657914005245426" style="margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; float: right;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2c1AMNFTvzuLct79nDnYENG_tvymGosrpD7uRibPbzAKOocgh7g3SxLLLIxTYRAZpv5kZBP99dZBrrUJsXaRcJ-EzKi9dtvfaNb26c_Dc58KyGLwxSJ3QTlF8s8N5E_VZHFhmW7CTGt4/s200/P9110529.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Poor breakfast; no cerals, nor toast, nor butter and jam either; only one mug of lukewarm coffee. But the very dark brew and no forecasted rain cheered me up and set forth.<br />Got the route alternative to the track along the beck: dangerous in bad wheather. Lot of grouses. Lost the track at Through-Heads; entered a farm court; climbed over a locked gate hurting the knees hopping down. Extremely tired all day long. Lost track on Cotherstone Moor; luckily good visibility so no need of compass: walked through the high grasses of the moor, bearing towards the reservoir in the bootom of the dale. Got to Middleton arond 6 p.m. Went to bed after hot shower, without supper: too tired. Brunswick House quite lovely and refined B&B; forniture and food as well. Middleton looks like a fine town too.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">September 12, 2008. Going home</span><br /><br />Smooth trip to Newcastle by bus and train. Went to Marks & Spencer to buy pure wool pullover for Chantal. Got to the airport very early: alas, too tired to visit Newcastle which looks like a really alive and charming city.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div>Sergio Baldellihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14895701664855290571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8036933995508136555.post-85971760954819503372008-05-04T19:14:00.022+02:002008-12-09T07:46:31.211+01:00Pembrokeshire Coast Path<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicCa0JAO6ocMPgAsgDNx6ZTQpazT7oXq-gX3uUSXdmx2RcpJuIkTsSIP1NWMLGB-Uz8FfdiEv7sPSSaD2CkkYk110ktyZCh3IhInxsgzKRntXXsURyiKoEOoMcdeL2Yx6YtmGJqW3PzFY/s1600-h/tmp4d5ff876.tmp..JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 222px; height: 167px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicCa0JAO6ocMPgAsgDNx6ZTQpazT7oXq-gX3uUSXdmx2RcpJuIkTsSIP1NWMLGB-Uz8FfdiEv7sPSSaD2CkkYk110ktyZCh3IhInxsgzKRntXXsURyiKoEOoMcdeL2Yx6YtmGJqW3PzFY/s200/tmp4d5ff876.tmp..JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198062224935436034" border="0" /></a>Well, at last I've been able to realize the "dream" I had been fostering for two years: walking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path.<br />In the very beginning of my long distance projects, I was a bit intimidated by the toughness of the path and its remoteness from Heathrow. So, as my first long distance walking experience, I chose the Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path which revealed a wonderful trip as I related in previous posts.<br />Although quite different, I found the Pembrokeshire Coast Path too, a magnificent hike. But more about that below.<br />In contrast with the previous hike, I won't transcribe here the journal kept during the last trip; I don't consider it of much interest for the reader. So I'm just giving a short summary.<br />I took more than 900 pictures; if interested, please, take a look at the gallery top-right. They are arrayed by leg.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >TIMELINE</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">April 19-20, 2008. Getting to Wales</span><br /><br />Landed to Heathrow (from Rome) in the late evening, just in time to catch the midnight National Express coach bound to Swansea. There - being Sunday - waited from 4 am to 10,30 for the first train to Haverfordwest. Town tour, dinner. Accommodation at College Guest House.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">April 21, 2008. From Marloes to Broad Haven 25 km<br /><br /></span>9,00 Bus from Haverfordwest to Marloes where arrived at 10,05.<br />Lost a little time in finding the public footpath to the coast.<br />Started the Coast Path walking at Ragged Rocks (Marloes Sands) around 11 pm.<br />Half an hour break around 1,30 pm (after Musselwick Sands) for refreshment (water, chocolate, rice cakes, dried apricots and sesame bar).<br />An other short break 3 miles before the goal.<br />Reached Broad Haven around 6 pm. Accommodation at Anchor Guest House (nice).<br />Supper in my room with cheese and apples. Half bitter at the local pub.<br />Beautiful weather all day.<br />Very exhausted and knees hurting during the last miles.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">April 22, 2008. From Broad Haven to Lower Solva 18 km</span><br /><br />Waken up during the night with strong headache (persisting all day long). Drunk juice of 3 lemons bought in the local shop (my favourite remedy for headache due to gluten).<br />First break around 1,30 pm (with light refreshment as above) plus a second shorter one later.<br />Got to Solva in the afternoon.<br />Accommodation at Gamlyn B&B, nice cottage along the River Solva.<br />Supper with apple and rice cakes.<br />Beautiful weather all day.<br />Very tough leg although shorter then the previous one: many steep hills to climb.<br />Come across an adder coiled in the middle of path.<br />Met scanty walkers; mostly short distance.<br />A little trouble with the cows barring the passage after a stile. Not seeming that peaceful, made a dangerous detour passing on the verge of the cliffs.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">April 23, 2008. From Lower Solva to St David's 23 km</span><br /><br />Headache almost gone.<br />Start walking around 9 am.<br />Beautiful weather all day after a bit overcast in the early morning. When sheltered from wind even hot. I got sunburnt on the neck and nose. A sun hat would have been appropriate.<br />Break half way on the verge of the cliffs with usual refreshment contemplating an astonishing view.<br />Got to St David's through never ending 2,5 miles of roads.<br />Accommodation at Y-Gorlan Guest House; very nice and refined.<br />Pain to a heel tendon. Application of Arnica Heel ointment (vanished overnight; I recommand it as the walker companion!). Started to assume Rhus Toxicodendron against possible tendonitis.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpFWA2n8n8xpNqlYYW3kXDx2PrkTHSXtRHOm01CTC3H3bvm4kyo5CTXVADiQLkZ7NsYsf3Zq_RPOlQEOtFBRhhnj90L6M2ihPfsfEVyNsnbfrz9YQkmiGopnb442LwHJBuOq_efJRsHLs/s1600-h/tmp4f59f8b4.tmp..JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpFWA2n8n8xpNqlYYW3kXDx2PrkTHSXtRHOm01CTC3H3bvm4kyo5CTXVADiQLkZ7NsYsf3Zq_RPOlQEOtFBRhhnj90L6M2ihPfsfEVyNsnbfrz9YQkmiGopnb442LwHJBuOq_efJRsHLs/s200/tmp4f59f8b4.tmp..JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198066038866394914" border="0" /></a>Nice town for Wales standards. Interesting cathedral although very renovated.<br />Emotion hearing in the cloister a soprano rehearsing a Haendel (?) aria with piano accompanist.<br />For supper bar food at the local pub a little spoiled by the huge TV broadcasting the match Manchester-Barcelona or whatever.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">April 24, 2008. From Whitesands beach to Abercastle 25 km</span><br /><br />Got to Whitesands parking by bus. Start walking 9,45 am.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPeIhQYeMOKnyo8Cqz7kNbJVv2_39fFOjUkzZkZE5uRz8gYl0Tys42mYai2gor2Vas-U37TUyUBRN3gbNGKLN6DA26DhWXQF-DtTKY2_OlSUkMzwYMMRtcRc0jW2hJTVNGpmnVzC_Tixk/s1600-h/tmp11303266.tmp..JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPeIhQYeMOKnyo8Cqz7kNbJVv2_39fFOjUkzZkZE5uRz8gYl0Tys42mYai2gor2Vas-U37TUyUBRN3gbNGKLN6DA26DhWXQF-DtTKY2_OlSUkMzwYMMRtcRc0jW2hJTVNGpmnVzC_Tixk/s200/tmp11303266.tmp..JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198066743241031474" border="0" /></a><br />Still exceptionally fine weather. Tough path too, with many steep climbings.<br />Break about 1 pm with refreshment as usual.<br />Coffee break around 3 pm in Porthgain.<br />Garn Isaf B&B room unavailable because delayed works; instead I had the self catering cottage all for myself!<br />No pubs near: light supper with caffelatte and rice cakes.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">April 25, 2008. From Abercastle to Goodwick (Fishguard) 26 km</span><br /><br />Bad day: heavy rain all time. Boots and trousers soaked. Many steep hills to climb and often on difficult path.<br />Short break around 1 pm roughly sheltered in an unfinished sort of building.<br />Troubles with cows barring the passage: detour by the cliff edge.<br />Accommodation and dinner at The Ferry Boat Inn. Nice and good quality.<br />Dried boots and other wet garments over the heating.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">April 26, 2008. From Fishguard (Lower Town) to Newport 22 km.</span><br /><br />Got to Fishguard from Goodwick by bus.<br />Bought the only waterproofer available in Fishguard (for my shoes).<br />Started the walking from Lower Town reached by bus.<br />Halt about 2 pm in Pwllgwaelod (coffee and carrot cake in the local pub). Very tired: probably accumulated fatigue.<br />Lovely weather all day.<br />Accommodation at Golden Lion Inn. Nice place; unfortunately no shower, only bathtub. Supper at same inn bar. Chat with nice customers. Very animated (Saturday night).<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlD3A0RoXkjaMXZFZrskS8wElye4Pl3WPLpZCx9iy22blbRhl8MmkJ9i91MiH3nZmqVm-CW214jXle9pPM9MpA4rLOLLBxxZagSin5dmzQz2vl1eMHjin6O52n5yXB8d4kDc8ZGP_tjac/s1600-h/tmp11303266.tmp..JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlD3A0RoXkjaMXZFZrskS8wElye4Pl3WPLpZCx9iy22blbRhl8MmkJ9i91MiH3nZmqVm-CW214jXle9pPM9MpA4rLOLLBxxZagSin5dmzQz2vl1eMHjin6O52n5yXB8d4kDc8ZGP_tjac/s200/tmp11303266.tmp..JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198069251501932370" border="0" /></a><br />Newport is the nicest town seen in Wales (thus far). Stone houses, Gothic church, castle remnants, burial chamber.<br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br /><br />April 27, 2008. From Newport to Moylgrove 16 km.</span><br /><br />Accommodation at Swn-y-Nant B&B in Moylgrove. Nice and good quality. Supper with cheese and fruit.<br />The waterproofing of shoes useless: socks damp after a few steps in the dew wet grass.<br />Luckily fine weather all day.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">April 28, 2008. From Moylgrove to St Dogmaels 16 km</span><br /><br />God weather.<br />Coffee break with welsh cakes at Webley Hotel.<br />Reached Cardigan by bus.<br />Accommodation at Highbury House. Breakfast not particularly good although nice place and landlady.<br />Supper in a pub near the bridge on the river Teifi.<br />Cardigan is a pretty animated town.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">April 29, getting back home</span><br /><br />9,00 am bus from Cardigan to Carmarthen, then National Express to Swansea and another NE coach service to Heathrow where arrived at 17 pm. 8 pm flight to Rome. Landed 12 pm.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">IMPRESSION OF THE TRIP<br /></span> </span><br />Very beautiful trail. I was astonished to find a so long stretch of coast<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUTzv50nokKOVAmO0SBrUjQbuyUdKPa0pEhKud4IAcFsX-uQlrtrVyXkEcDT011OsCOklL8gZP3SllamaytTHIAJTKrVlvy7jPIH81mGtT2q_ZEuYv9awmdVdj_JTJBqU75Rbn6krNwlQ/s1600-h/PembrokeshireCoastPathLeg3FromSolvaToStDavidS.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUTzv50nokKOVAmO0SBrUjQbuyUdKPa0pEhKud4IAcFsX-uQlrtrVyXkEcDT011OsCOklL8gZP3SllamaytTHIAJTKrVlvy7jPIH81mGtT2q_ZEuYv9awmdVdj_JTJBqU75Rbn6krNwlQ/s200/PembrokeshireCoastPathLeg3FromSolvaToStDavidS.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198069741128204130" border="0" /></a> quite unspoilt. Impossible to find an equivalent in Italy.<br />I'm glad to have chosen this time of year because not too hot for walking and especially because the full blossom. Magnificent carpets of gorse, hawthorns, violets and primroses.<br />Caught sight of a seal (from very far). Many birds and - particularly dear to me - skylarks, whose song was my enchanting companion during the whole hike.<br />Some troubles with the cows (see above). Seen many horses, wild welsh ponies and, quite unexpected, an adder.<br />Exceptional fine weather (only one rainy day).<br />A tough hike on the whole. But, notwithstanding the National Trail Guide, I could have walked the Newport - St Dogmaels leg in one day instead of splitting it in two.<br />As I couldn't afford to stay away more than 10 days I wasn't able to walk the entire 300 km of the trail. So I chose to start from Marloes, skipping the oil refineries area between Pembroke and Milford Haven and then proceeding northwards.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">PEMBROKESHIRE COAST PATH AND PEDDARS WAY - NORFOLK COAST PATH COMPARED<br /></span> </span><br />Well, it's hard to compare such different trails.<br />To begin with I must say that the Norfolk hike had the unique spell of the first time.<br />It was my first long distance walking experience and everything was magic to me.<br /><br />Pembrokeshire Coast Path leads one through a long lofty stretch of colourful and almost savage scenery of high cliffs interrupted by secluded coves where crystal brooks flow into the wide Ocean.<br />You are often up and down on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, reaching 175 meters over the sea level. What difference with the Norfolk Coast Path which progresses through a flat sea marsh landscape. Or with the almost straight line of the Peddars Way where the highest point is only 75 meters o.s.l.<br /><br />The Norfolk trail is definitely less spectacular but, at least to me, it has its own spell: wide horizons, huge oaks and limes and dear ash trees, the magic intermingling of earth and water.<br /><br />While the Pembrokeshire trail offers to the walker the grand feeling of an unspoilt, primeval and solitary landscape, in Norfolk - although in some stretches one might feel secluded - you are always in contact with the history of the Country: the footpath tracing a Roman road, old English villages and towns with beautiful flintstone Gothic churches, remnants of once splendid priories and ancient pubs where, enjoying a delicious local ale after your long stroll, you almost expect to see Tom Jones coming in.<br />Yes, in my impression, what lacks in Wales (at least in what I've seen of it) are beautiful old villages and tidiness of houses and countryside. Outside the path I've noticed a little shabbiness which unpleasantly reminded me of Italy.<br /><br />If I had to resume my impressions I would say:<br /><br />Pembrokeshire "colourful unspoilt savage coastal landscape".<br />Norfolk "charming Old England villages and countryside".<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">GEAR</span></span><br /><br />I won't go into details of my equipment. I've already covered the item in a previous post related to the Norfolk trails. I just mention the differences from the latter.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Weight</span><br /><br />I've been able to reduce the weight of about 1,5 kg. Lighter backpack: (- 800 g.) less food, dropped hat sun and shorts.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Rucksack</span><br /><br />Ferrino Cumbre a 35 l. mountain rucksack revealed better balanced and comfortable than the Decathlon Forclaz 40 air I carried in Norfolk.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Footwear</span><br /><br />I wore very light walking shoes: Adidas Response Walk GTX. More comfortable than the New Balance NB985 because lighter (- 200 g.) and more breathable being in Goretex.<br />Unfortunately they revealed not in the least waterproof. They were soaked after only one hour rain. I can't say whether the New Balance would have been better because it never rained during the Norfolk hike.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Lesson learned</span><br /><br />Sun hat indispensable.<br /><br />Shorts would be much appreciated.<br /><br />Water repellent mountain trouser Millet not in the least waterproof so next time waterproof overtrousers and light walking trousers convertible into shorts.<br /><br />Arnica Heel ointment indispensable.<br /><br />Light, breathable and waterproof footwear still to be found.<br /><br />The rest is OK, no other changes to the Norfolk gear.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">CONCLUSION</span></span><br /><br />The long distance walking didn't fail to reward me once again of a glorious experience definitely worthy the effort it demanded.<br /><br />Now, in order to console me of the longing for the past adventure, I'm going to consider which trail to choose for the next long distance walk (perhaps next September).Sergio Baldellihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14895701664855290571noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8036933995508136555.post-3136006096636190122008-04-10T12:24:00.006+02:002008-09-19T11:41:31.208+02:00Again on why not long distance walking in ItalyWell, I should have written this post in January but I've been a bit lazy.<br />For Christmas, my brother Luca offered me, as a gift, a book remarkably apropos the present topic.<br />Namely it is "<a href="http://www.kere.it/isola/libri/dibuonpasso.asp">Di buon passo</a>" by Andrea Bocconi; a kind of journal, telling the author's adventures backpacking through Tuscany and Umbria, hitting the springs of the two major Central Italy rivers: Arno and Tevere.<br />I roughly reckoned he might have walked about 400 km during his 12 days journey.<br /><br />I can hardly compare his mode of walking with mine: he carried a rather heavy backpack and he often camped while I'm aiming lightness and halting only in b&b or inns.<br /><br />But I'm not going to review the book which - by the way - is rather nice. What interest me there is that Andrea implicitly confirms some of the aspects which I mentioned in an earlier <a href="http://longdistancewalking-sergio.blogspot.com/2007/09/why-england.html">post</a> where I explained why I won't undertake any journey on foot in Italy.<br />In particular he often was not able to access the path because illegally blocked off by bordering real estate owners or obstructed by thorns uncut long since for lack of maintenance.<br />In conclusion, it seems that the journey frequently proceeded on the roads, beside motor vehicles.<br /><br />That's a pity but who can help? I don't think the situation is going to improve considering the unrelenting spreading of illegality (and concrete) in this country.<br /><br />I'm consoling myself by the perspective that within two week short I'm starting the Pembrokeshire Coast Path walk.<br /><br />But more about that in the upcoming posts where my gentle readers will be acquainted with sundry matters like gear improvement, athlete's foot and the journey story.Sergio Baldellihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14895701664855290571noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8036933995508136555.post-14018845072079400982008-01-23T11:21:00.000+01:002008-12-09T07:46:31.320+01:00Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path - Going back home - September 13, 2007<span style="font-weight: bold;">Stansted airport 3 p.m.</span><span><br /><br />In fact the Cromer B&B was good, clean and the bathroom - although not en suite - was actually only for me being the only guest at the floor. Quality breakfast (even cotton napkin) and the landlady very nice.</span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6xR5jX0DztYIVMloqWyn1qoYZekq7K0ZAKROTEdTaAsGnAIWcDSf2B6Dm0C1p-SHqaT5FJlINx2q_Pj4qXwrjeykc78vwY5aCxBKdUR8VFnNnxVU1BbDWmhUPPAq4eNHDIiAVRTB9ZKM/s1600-h/PeddarsCoast+874.jpg"><img style="margin: 10pt 10pt 0px 0px; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6xR5jX0DztYIVMloqWyn1qoYZekq7K0ZAKROTEdTaAsGnAIWcDSf2B6Dm0C1p-SHqaT5FJlINx2q_Pj4qXwrjeykc78vwY5aCxBKdUR8VFnNnxVU1BbDWmhUPPAq4eNHDIiAVRTB9ZKM/s200/PeddarsCoast+874.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5158624916128764514" border="0" /></a><br /><span>As I could leave the B&B earlier than scheduled, instead of the XF line (9,15 a.m.) I caught the</span><span> 44 which took me to Norwich at 10,00. So I could visit the cathedral: magnificent; English Gothic: perpendicular? (have to look at the Pevsner).</span><br /><span>I took some photos but "en cachette" (thanks to the extra compact camera).<br />Then I went into a beautiful bookshop in order to look for something on Norfolk: nothing worthwhile. There was a 2 x 3 discount for the classics so I bought "Tess", "The Mill on the Floss" and "Heart of Darkness". In fact they gave for free the cheaper book of the three: if I had known I'd have bought three books with similar price.<br />Eventually, lingering in Norwich high street it got late; I hurried (in the mean time it was getting warm) for the coach station where I got only 10 minutes before the departure. Tickets are not sold on board; luckily no queue at the counter. If I've rightly understood all tickets are sold through the system and the drivers gets a list where for every stop there is the number and name of the passengers getting on and off.<br />I got to the airport 20 minutes late; with the waiting times of Stansted the following coach from Norwich would have been too short.<br />I'm writing sitting at Ponti's, a self service. Got a fruit salad, an apple cake with custard, water and a coffee (£10)<br />Ah! I was going to forget: from the coach I saw the crossing between the Peddars Way and </span><span>the highway which I crossed the very first day. I was moved!<br /><br />Here ended my journal. In the next posts I'm going to talk about planning the next trip: Penbrokeshire Coast Path probably in April or May.<br /></span>Sergio Baldellihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14895701664855290571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8036933995508136555.post-19259617406643614192008-01-22T13:01:00.000+01:002008-12-09T07:46:31.926+01:00Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path - The last stage (Day 7th - September 12, 2007)<span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">From Wiveton to Kromer (22 km c.a)</span></span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Weybourne cliffs 12 a.m.</span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg906A5T367SZoCLSBHBshgcYofO_Z4s0lNIh7ifk7TnwhydFlVpq-xW2IOD55VeB-W_v446ghkzV2JLJzKZxHvl1ei3B6PW1Z1yz0M8rvzQW8KMK2kJ5ZtTARq8ow1VNle-svOofovERQ/s1600-h/PeddarsCoast+812.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 148px; height: 110px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg906A5T367SZoCLSBHBshgcYofO_Z4s0lNIh7ifk7TnwhydFlVpq-xW2IOD55VeB-W_v446ghkzV2JLJzKZxHvl1ei3B6PW1Z1yz0M8rvzQW8KMK2kJ5ZtTARq8ow1VNle-svOofovERQ/s200/PeddarsCoast+812.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5158275687487258482" border="0" /></a><br />Halt on the cliffs in front of Weybourne (National Grid Reference TG 115 437).<br />Fantastic weather: shorts and T-shirt only.<br />Yesterday getting back to the B&B from the pub was a little bit frightful: very dark night, narrow road; couldn't see not even the the road borders (in order to get off in case of cars coming). I sillily forgot my torch!<br />Very good breakfast at Rosemede B&B.<br />It's ages since I haven't seen such a bright night sky with so many crisp stars: the Milky Way pretty clear and the Ursa Minor complete!<br />Still 4 km to Sheringham. In a few minutes I'm going to restart. I'll have a coffee there.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPs0Cx2E1jOQ6Lx2aJ3UDPtnp4Zk8FVnjxPRgaPnbQOycOGLRLdBTcT8ox6Ndnhjl5hFAEx4JjKgYJIAOpRb8m-O3hXr81r5ShKBZG_rnDfVWGskF3ayoE9anKgkdDPVn1Ix5tX_kX8GI/s1600-h/PeddarsCoast+869.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPs0Cx2E1jOQ6Lx2aJ3UDPtnp4Zk8FVnjxPRgaPnbQOycOGLRLdBTcT8ox6Ndnhjl5hFAEx4JjKgYJIAOpRb8m-O3hXr81r5ShKBZG_rnDfVWGskF3ayoE9anKgkdDPVn1Ix5tX_kX8GI/s200/PeddarsCoast+869.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5158288512259604370" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">The goal at last: Cromer</span><br /><br />I got to Cromer at quarter past 4 p.m. but not by the official trail: in Sheringham I lost the signposts and I found myself on the beach under the cliffs, without any way to go up. When I found a passage it was too farther on; if I had taken it I would have made a big detour: the trail bends inland after Sheringham.<br />Asked about the tide (high at 8 p.m.) I continued along the beach. The boots revealed providential: many pools 2 or 3 cm deep. But I'm still convinced that these are extreme cases (well there are also boggy tracks) and so a lighter footwear would be better. The choice has to be made also in function of the average kind of the trail.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUI-9cQ-UW2VOeGmwzj4mLdzgLSw8I-YyYWLE-ClTkKr-FE3zHteAasNKXPrJ3dN_WYJGFJpW9kHqqNlG_S2zYQ0f0xw5xyHJI-ONdSoNHj_uUq5HnJggIn8PafWe0YAp8vRNdSkPnKrY/s1600-h/PeddarsCoast+851.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 136px; height: 102px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUI-9cQ-UW2VOeGmwzj4mLdzgLSw8I-YyYWLE-ClTkKr-FE3zHteAasNKXPrJ3dN_WYJGFJpW9kHqqNlG_S2zYQ0f0xw5xyHJI-ONdSoNHj_uUq5HnJggIn8PafWe0YAp8vRNdSkPnKrY/s200/PeddarsCoast+851.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5158284535119888258" border="0" /></a><br />In Sheringham I had a coffee and a slice of carrot cake: I really needed it. Sadly I couldn't rest: the coffee shop was in the shadow: as soon as one stops and is not in the sun it is quite cold, especially when there is a little wind.<br /><br />Sheringham looks like the typical seaside town for retired people. I didn't fall in love with it.<br />Cromer is even worse: the typical seaside resort: bingos and fish and chips. Besides it is a little dismal, shabby houses...and even people.<br />England is surprising: in many places everything is harmonic while others are squalid.<br />Besides the weather is magnificent at the moment; what would be with a gray and rainy one.<br />Nobody at the B&B. I went to the bus station (which is actually a mere bus stop) and a person waiting for a bus told me that tickets are sold by the driver.The stop is within 50 m. from the B&B: I'll be able then to catch 9,15 for Norwich in order to take a look at the cathedral and then catch the coach arriving to the airport at 2,40 p.m. instead than the 4,40 one: too just.<br />I'm on the seaside; a little sun but when remaining still it's a little fresh.<br />Now I'll go back to the B&B in order to look whether there is somebody in.<br />The landlady was back. Nice. Coloured. My room is in the attic. For £2 supplement I asked for an en suite room but none available. It's o.k. as well: there is a basin in the room.<br />I took a shower at once. Nothing stirring at floor.<br />It's rather a business B&B; not a family one like in Wiveton yesterday. But quite o.k.: clean and functional. Only the TV is out of order. Maybe I made wrong manouvre. Breakfast is 8,30 but on my request the landlady is kindly willing to anticipate it at 8,00. I'd like to catch the 9,15 bus to Norwich. Luckily the stop is only 50 m.<br />Washed my shirt: I'll be able to travel back clean. Today I've perspired a lot and I've been wearing the shirt for a good moment (around Sheringham).<br />After the lunch on the cliffs I lengthened the rucksack shoulder straps (1 mark more than "N"): seems better.<br />Went out at 8,00 for supper. Not even one pub serving still some food! The only restaurant had already closed the orders as an other shabby pub I came across later. Not that I was that hungry but I didn't want to have a beer without something solid in. Eventually, when I was going to renounce and get back to my room, I had the idea to look for a sandwich in a petrol station. Got to sandwiches with tuna and fresh onions. No sure of the local custom, I didn't dare to bring my food into a pub so I ate it seated on a bench in front of the sea. Then I went to the pub that seemed the most genuine and got 1/2 pint of ale.<br />The pub too confirms the impression of squalor of this town felt as my first impression.<br />The pub is decaying and many guest laugh with the typical drunk laugh.<br />I'm getting asleep; I finish my beer and go to bed.Sergio Baldellihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14895701664855290571noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8036933995508136555.post-21367007120874414542008-01-22T08:33:00.000+01:002008-12-09T07:46:32.430+01:00Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path - Day 6th - September 11, 2007<span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >From Warham to Wiveton (20 km c.a)</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Blackney 1,30 p.m.</span><br /><br />Today I've already covered 11,5 km: more than half the daily stretch. Today is the shortest stage: about 20 km.<br /><br />Yesterday was a tough day; not only I covered 27 km but I walked the last 4 in quick pace because it was getting late and I was afraid to loose my room. I arrived to the inn after 6,30 p.m.<br />Today, the breakfast was worthy the pub class. Even cotton napkins.<br />I set out late: half past ten. I've been chatting during breakfast with the other guests: two nice Scots, one from Edinburgh and the other from near Glasgow.<br />Apropos the quality of the inn, there was even a bathrobe.<br />Today, beside the blister, even the knees hurt. Probably walking fast with a heavy load.<br />Still fine weather: clouds and sun; the wind is less strong than yesterday. I took off the waterproof jacket. I'd like to wear the shorts but sometimes the wind blows a little freshly.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8vPvmfKnQvv5-oO-eo0nieOqog_EfmJV8PxnFldE_ss_nQ04N0q0Hl7xUrQzjRg79TUvIAmTsX43pjQRTHdFfQ-LFCkxxAcTBRE1N_32TY2WeFi1_5q-vl-ZLBVilj8QLnMJB_hF6XhI/s1600-h/PeddarsCoast+685.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 106px; height: 142px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8vPvmfKnQvv5-oO-eo0nieOqog_EfmJV8PxnFldE_ss_nQ04N0q0Hl7xUrQzjRg79TUvIAmTsX43pjQRTHdFfQ-LFCkxxAcTBRE1N_32TY2WeFi1_5q-vl-ZLBVilj8QLnMJB_hF6XhI/s200/PeddarsCoast+685.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5158233437893967666" border="0" /></a><br />Along the coast I'm meeting a lot of walkers; from their gear, they seem circular walkers. The only long distance walker I've met thus far is the yesterday one and, perhaps, another one on the 3rd day along the Peddars Way.<br />The café where I'm writing at the moment is very nice. Board floor, light yellow walls and withe moulding. They serve food as well. I had a slice of nut cake and a coffee.<br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Cley next the Seas 8,00 p.m.</span><br /><br />I'm in another splendid pub: Three Swallows. The local pub near my B&B in Wiveton was full so I had to walk to Cley (one more mile) but it is far better like this because actually it was a pub aspiring to be a restaurant (candles, etc.).<br />This is a genuine old pub: plank floor, tables side by side, etc.<br />Ordered "Venison Casserole" and one pint of bitter "Adams".<br />Sadly the smoked mackerel was finished.<br />I'm a little concerned by the return to the B&B in the night: no pavement and all my garments are black. Let's hope the napkin is light coloured: I'll use it as sign for the cars.<br />The waitress has just brought the casserole: a kind of stew with potatoes, carrots, broccoli and peas. I'm waiting a bit: it's very hot.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8GJcJiNd9lJIjQcivJBxViQ8BoCZyZdnYlxI5GtYQfnEEDnBGl-L9ziy3aEznbiEr6oAj_qpNyYumRkV-lM83e6XgomWsgTh9HL29-J3SvE4LKfjV_lt03IY97MA5NU9Xzg8BUfMdD5c/s1600-h/PeddarsCoast+691.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 128px; height: 95px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8GJcJiNd9lJIjQcivJBxViQ8BoCZyZdnYlxI5GtYQfnEEDnBGl-L9ziy3aEznbiEr6oAj_qpNyYumRkV-lM83e6XgomWsgTh9HL29-J3SvE4LKfjV_lt03IY97MA5NU9Xzg8BUfMdD5c/s200/PeddarsCoast+691.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5158238948337008450" border="0" /></a><br />Blakney - where I stopped this afternoon and had a coffee - is a very<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZYLyZxj6cLYppA1DyHhVGmGJgQdwTp0K8OwtOvcDYPoE9o4Iqz2kkuoP8jNe4oXjJXa8lgTjfwUsELOXnUGW79FZdZ_HECJPJqgVcvqTWOS1BLjasdXxv57kWXto87lJo_SIyICZmc64/s1600-h/PeddarsCoast+698.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 92px; height: 123px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZYLyZxj6cLYppA1DyHhVGmGJgQdwTp0K8OwtOvcDYPoE9o4Iqz2kkuoP8jNe4oXjJXa8lgTjfwUsELOXnUGW79FZdZ_HECJPJqgVcvqTWOS1BLjasdXxv57kWXto87lJo_SIyICZmc64/s200/PeddarsCoast+698.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5158239897524780898" border="0" /></a> beautiful town.<br />I climbed up to the hill where there is a fine medieval church.<br /><br />The venison casserole was good only too much laurel and the vegetables - as a rule - only boiled. The potatoes, at least, take some gravy.<br />Here dogs seem to be always allowed in the pubs. Even the guests just beside me have got one which - as matter of fact - I had to disturb in order to sit down: the tables are very close and I wanted to stay with my back to the wall in order to look at the pub life; besides, the other way I would have been like secluded.<br />Before leaving the B&B I met the landlord: nice and handsome man, rather my age but with quite long hair.<br />I washed shirt and T-shirt, pressed into a towel and suspended outside the window (ah! those Italians!).Sergio Baldellihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14895701664855290571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8036933995508136555.post-58410639053181031312008-01-21T10:51:00.000+01:002008-12-09T07:46:32.980+01:00Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path - Day 5th - September 10, 2007<span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-size:130%;">From Brancaster to Warham (27 km c.a.)</span></span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Wells-next-the-Sea 4,00 p.m.</span><br /><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNEoWoBVdnJFF-WCvGNdU5SYTDcp6DR76eHhSJOc1JYq_FfKNaHhc-DiAbWY6d6XjfRIRdG8CrF7OVAi8u6iGRmq-Pw9ZoU69cTgf_99ZAqfZDt9lRWgWa1G0xnA9oQ6zDdBDXIn4PaXI/s1600-h/PeddarsCoast+545.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 112px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNEoWoBVdnJFF-WCvGNdU5SYTDcp6DR76eHhSJOc1JYq_FfKNaHhc-DiAbWY6d6XjfRIRdG8CrF7OVAi8u6iGRmq-Pw9ZoU69cTgf_99ZAqfZDt9lRWgWa1G0xnA9oQ6zDdBDXIn4PaXI/s200/PeddarsCoast+545.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5157881873345953570" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:100%;">I couldn't go any further: exhausted. I've walked more than 20 km. Still 6 km to the B&B. Let's hope the little train from here (the beginning of The Bank: National Grid Reference TF 915 455) to the city centre is working.<br /></span><span style="font-size:100%;">At the beginning (NGR: TF 858 459) of the big dune after Burnham Overy Staithe I lost the track.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkH2VphnvMdP5bDx5XryJJa0U0JUGx0uLleZm6dK6kl-HVk07xFCvImB49ej1P-UhthrdgZ7gcLT45IFa3jrlwByZen0HCVJKZXomVOIeekKnt9oESC82nvjaUlf_7tVbHv4xj_LRe0tA/s1600-h/PeddarsCoast+491.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 129px; height: 97px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkH2VphnvMdP5bDx5XryJJa0U0JUGx0uLleZm6dK6kl-HVk07xFCvImB49ej1P-UhthrdgZ7gcLT45IFa3jrlwByZen0HCVJKZXomVOIeekKnt9oESC82nvjaUlf_7tVbHv4xj_LRe0tA/s200/PeddarsCoast+491.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5157876895478857458" border="0" /></a><br /></span><span style="font-size:100%;">No sign post where to turn right. I wandered a little while and then I entered the wood that, spotted on the map, I used as a reference. From the wood I could find the track again.<br />From Holkham Gap, instead of sticking to the National Trail, following the suggestion of a nice Welsh Walker, I went to Wells along the beach turning around the West Sands and rejoining the</span><span style="font-size:100%;"> official track just here at the parking.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXSo3_aywkVDXVPBlZu9e5SNZcX8o5XaXkSzPCbFbqxG77IM5VsGSYzyqHPK34hb29yANgS9z8r9zafBH2V3xzyr3ytZT4mJa5SQwJqxdsNzucAultSncCCmoO1pr3llUs8E_YJzmgX1s/s1600-h/PeddarsCoast+523.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 132px; height: 98px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXSo3_aywkVDXVPBlZu9e5SNZcX8o5XaXkSzPCbFbqxG77IM5VsGSYzyqHPK34hb29yANgS9z8r9zafBH2V3xzyr3ytZT4mJa5SQwJqxdsNzucAultSncCCmoO1pr3llUs8E_YJzmgX1s/s200/PeddarsCoast+523.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5157877784537087746" border="0" /></a><br /></span><span style="font-size:100%;"><br />Since I got to the coast, differently than along the Peddars Way - where I encountered very few people, here I'm meeting plenty of them with whom I often stop to chat. All pretty well-disposed towards walkers.<br />The most amazing meeting was this morning while I was looking for the track at Burnham Deepdale. Suddenly I saw a walker around 70, apparently not that firm in his legs. Wearing ordinary shoes and old garments and carrying an old and queer rucksack slanting on one side.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqieSpqYzuXhY-zSs3Orxu4nskf2E4bTkocmlHFVffR5cVpDhVaaTIGTXHCXAaFSxaHIEivO28Zwq-CbZQNBO3GAI8JvmdA75jBGih56TFsTIlDbsjf5_YKfcOXkG0y6VY3LtBlespmqw/s1600-h/PeddarsCoast+409.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 106px; height: 142px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqieSpqYzuXhY-zSs3Orxu4nskf2E4bTkocmlHFVffR5cVpDhVaaTIGTXHCXAaFSxaHIEivO28Zwq-CbZQNBO3GAI8JvmdA75jBGih56TFsTIlDbsjf5_YKfcOXkG0y6VY3LtBlespmqw/s200/PeddarsCoast+409.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5157879236236033810" border="0" /></a><br /></span><span style="font-size:100%;">Holding one banana and a map in one hand and an old hand made staff with a strap in the other one.<br /></span><span style="font-size:100%;">He too was walking the Peddars Way and the Coast Path. On his rucksack there were stitched a lot of National Trail Badges. He told me he couldn't remember how many he had walked of.</span><span style="font-size:100%;"> Probably a score. He was from Scarborough. We walked a little while together then I lost him when I stopped to put </span><span style="font-size:100%;">on </span><span style="font-size:100%;">something more warm because the </span><span style="font-size:100%;">sudden </span><span style="font-size:100%;">North gale.<br />By the way my Millet Cap revealed providential. The weather is wonderful today as well but a cold and strong gale blows from the North. I've been wearing almost all day trousers, shirt, waterproof jacket and cap.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Warham 8,00 p.m.</span><br /><br />I'm sitting at the bar of the Three Horseshoes Inn (National Grid Reference TF 943 416). Fantastic! Everything hundreds of years old. Old wood everywhere. As a matter of fact it is rightly awarded by the National Inventory of Historic Pubs. One believes to be in Fielding times. The bar is even nicer than the restaurant lounge: convivial and charming families; even the dog seems from the 18th century.<br />The food is traditional English. No search of originality at any cost as it is the norm today.<br />Such a place is unbelievable in Italy.<br />It one of the aspects of Britain I love the </span><span style="font-size:100%;">most</span><span style="font-size:100%;">: the sticking to the tradition (not in conservative way); I mean not throwing away the good things for new ones at any cost.<br />It is really the most beautiful and genuine place I've found thus far in Britain and, probably, anywhere else.<br />The family near me has got a nice hairy light honey coloured dog.<br />I got a pint of local Norfolk ale and ordered Ham and lentils soup and Local crab salad.<br />In the restaurant lounge there is a cast iron oven.<br />My room to is pretty beautiful too: lot of wood; genuine and old. Even the details: knobs, mouldings, and so on.<br />I need to wait because the soup is burning. By the way I've been served with a brioche shaped </span><span style="font-size:100%;">bread</span><span style="font-size:100%;">: delicious!<br />The today trip seemed endless; it should have been 24/25 km but, because I lost the track, I've actually covered more than 27 km.<br /><br /></span>Sergio Baldellihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14895701664855290571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8036933995508136555.post-67308528999155277422008-01-16T10:50:00.000+01:002008-12-09T07:46:33.495+01:00Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path - Day 4th - September 9, 2007<span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">From Sedgeford to Brancaster (22 km c.a.)</span></span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Gore Point 1,50 p.m.</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdF8FB7on_zsEsJtffnU41igAJESBM0uHqE8Ewn99BeuGY2Yoq2duHPjtXLmvY0sbPFOm59sUmw07LyMvnESzPvI-f9roNp13aYKWj4MMZFIL7DFUM4W8wNfkuiYVW6DxrH4SVG6BdWlQ/s1600-h/PeddarsCoast+326.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 138px; height: 103px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdF8FB7on_zsEsJtffnU41igAJESBM0uHqE8Ewn99BeuGY2Yoq2duHPjtXLmvY0sbPFOm59sUmw07LyMvnESzPvI-f9roNp13aYKWj4MMZFIL7DFUM4W8wNfkuiYVW6DxrH4SVG6BdWlQ/s200/PeddarsCoast+326.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5156030188390596306" border="0" /></a>It's now one hour since I stopped on the beach opposite Gore Point (National Grid Reference TF 706 448). I installed myself on top of the dune just on the spot where there is a descent to the beach. After my meager lunch I went down to the waterline and walked some time with the water up to the knees. The sea was warm and I could have swum. But nobody was bathing; maybe it's dangerous; undertow?<br />The weather is splendid; the landscape vast and unspoiled; I was so impressed and moved that my eyes watered.<br />Mrs. Frost breakfast (Sedgeford) was delicious; the best thus far. Home made jams; fine and complete china breakfast set; and - a touch of refined kindness - a bowl of strawberries and raspberries freshly plucked from Mrs. Frost garden.<br />As I had imagined, the track I noticed in the map is public (confirmed by Mr. Frost). So, instead of coming back to Fring Cross, I took the road for Ringstead and then the first on the right which, by the way, is a bridleway. So I could rejoin the Peddars Way higher than Sedgeford.<br />Fresh weather but wonderfully clear. Taken off the shirt. The trail went up and down<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8GiKD6OYRmm8ts-dPJ9RqTJ_CGGiLMZeb3o2_rQC7hjfhDSJ-lqZf63C56RTgCOM7W01QvKZ5XgEVPcgsdP4PPdImuE29gA4tJVXV28T3yKQAkmBldV8TeivEmFyOtftiJfcmu_scZaw/s1600-h/PeddarsCoast+252.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 143px; height: 107px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8GiKD6OYRmm8ts-dPJ9RqTJ_CGGiLMZeb3o2_rQC7hjfhDSJ-lqZf63C56RTgCOM7W01QvKZ5XgEVPcgsdP4PPdImuE29gA4tJVXV28T3yKQAkmBldV8TeivEmFyOtftiJfcmu_scZaw/s200/PeddarsCoast+252.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5156028753871519410" border="0" /></a> up to Ringstead. Before entering the village I met a gentleman walking with his dog: a very cheerful and agreeable creature. A female of Labrador which lapped me friendly.<br />Ringstead is a pretty nice village. I bought some apples and visited the medieval church.<br /><br />Less than a mile after Ringstead I caught - at last - the first sight of the North Sea; vision that a<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5ZgRU76AG40xDEEftuKi2XE1cY_-me52FBL3QVATk7P3C9nFcMGKtiiggz9MhWJf-kerkAas9D8gPEIo1AiYmgGmY7zoAQ0wqAW5CWAbSEgaUhu8LZhX7fdGLOTwOrlfbny3SpDfIEs8/s1600-h/PeddarsCoast+262.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 149px; height: 114px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5ZgRU76AG40xDEEftuKi2XE1cY_-me52FBL3QVATk7P3C9nFcMGKtiiggz9MhWJf-kerkAas9D8gPEIo1AiYmgGmY7zoAQ0wqAW5CWAbSEgaUhu8LZhX7fdGLOTwOrlfbny3SpDfIEs8/s200/PeddarsCoast+262.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5156029638634782402" border="0" /></a>ccompanied me up to Holme beach.<br />The sea, the fine weather and the less hurting blister (thanks to the plaster kindly provided by Mrs. Frost) have contributed to boost my morale.<br />But now it's about time I set out if I don't want to pass the night on the beach.<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">4,40 p.m.</span><br /><br />Halt in the inland section of the trail (National Grid Reference 745 420): I was exhausted and my back hurts a lot. It's vital to have less load!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJaPc80Rrf9yE4t5eS0XTJqy_NhF-zXCpuskW4cBYkc8cO5rozmBZS-gEHY-07GAAu9fGFv1Sz55uPCwuQz9RvO0mLj39o_gBTA1AfJNaGd6atOIr0lAsKRQgDv-BmjmOZ7QJT7ntQodA/s1600-h/PeddarsCoast+374.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 123px; height: 92px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJaPc80Rrf9yE4t5eS0XTJqy_NhF-zXCpuskW4cBYkc8cO5rozmBZS-gEHY-07GAAu9fGFv1Sz55uPCwuQz9RvO0mLj39o_gBTA1AfJNaGd6atOIr0lAsKRQgDv-BmjmOZ7QJT7ntQodA/s200/PeddarsCoast+374.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5156787571513507554" border="0" /></a><br />After Thornham, on the road to Crosely, I was afraid to have missed the track on the left and got lost: I'm not yet used to the 50,000 maps.<br />From here to Brancaster (the stage goal) there are exactly 4 km (National Trail signpost).<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">7,00 p.m.</span><br /><br />Got to Brancaster at 5,45 p.m. Waited 6,00 for the Inn's opening.<br />I'm not quite happy with the Ship Inn; no value for money (£55): lot of shabby details. Its advantages are en suite shower and wc and laying right on the trail.<br />Made a little washing: 4 sock pairs and one pants. Wrung well and then rolled up in a towel for a quarter of an hour. If it works (dried tomorrow) it shows that it's possible to further reduce the load: instead of 6 socks and 5 pants only 3 of each (one up, one to wash in the evening and one spear for emergency).<br />Anyway even the rucksack should be probably be replaced. Too heavy and need to take my measures before choosing a new one.<br />Could try reselling the present one by eBay.<br />While waiting the inn's opening received an SMS from Chantal which I answered to.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">8,20 p.m.</span><br /><br />Went down in the dining room. I had just the time to make the last order. Another unpleasant detail: the outside board says until 9,30 on Sundays. Perhaps it refers only to the bar.<br />Ordered choosing from the board: haddock (don't remember how) and boiled potatoes.<br />Got one pint of Abbot ale. The best tasted thus far.<br />After the seaside halt the trip has been pretty hard.<br />It seems impossible but I got sun burnt on the forearms, neck and legs. I'm feeling like feverish but, as I have never felt cold, it must due to the sun.<br />I've checked carefully, tomorrow - even cutting after Wells - it's the longest stretch of the whole hike.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">9,30 p.m.</span><br /><br />The haddock was deep fried; luckily I could remove the batter, dripping nauseating oil as frequently happens in Britain. If I had known I'd have had the plaice fingers, at least cheaper.<br />It could be a good idea not to dine: an English breakfast values for two meals.<br />A small snack would be enough: just to not drinking the beer with empty stomach.<br />The Inn closes at 10,00 even the access to the rooms so I must go to find a telephone for calling my mother.Sergio Baldellihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14895701664855290571noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8036933995508136555.post-45020700346279733862008-01-15T14:59:00.000+01:002008-12-09T07:46:33.587+01:00Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path - Day 3rd - September 8, 2007<span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">From Castle Acre to Sedgeford (23 km c.a.)</span></span><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:100%;" ><br />6,30 a.m.<br /><br /></span>I can't sleep any longer. Anyway I've slept quite well and gone to bed rather early.<br />I asked to have breakfast at 7,45 so, while I'm waiting, I take the opportunity for writing my journal.<br />Happily, this morning no headache at all!<br />The weather is cloudy but, if it's like yesterday, it should clear up and warm up as well. Anyway for walking better cold than hot so long as it doesn't rain.<br />The shirt and t-shirt I washed yesterday dried up fine notwithstanding the lack of fresh air (extremely tiny window).<br />I'm opening a new section in my notebook: Lessons learned and how to improve the next hike.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">10,45 a.m<br /><br /></span>First stop of the day (National Grid Reference TF 783 223).<br />I've covered c.a. 8 km (nearly 1/3rd of the daily stage).<br />I'm a little worried about the blister; it broke out and it's hurting a lot. Let's hope it won't get infected.<br />The grass was so wet that the moist entered the shoes which now are quite damp as well as the socks.<br />Can't understand, during the Cotswold walking last July, they seemed waterproof. One more reason to change them for a lighter footwear (maybe with overshoes).<br />The rucksack seems more comfortable today. It's a question of adjustment in relation to the barycenter. I moved it up a bit and it works better.<br />Here the trail is a small grass path bordered by hedges and big trees. On the right there are cultivated fields and on the left meadows with horses.<br />The weather is cloudy again. Anyway the shorts are perfect for this weather even if on early morning it's a little fresh.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">1,00 p.m.</span><br /><br />Lunch halt <span style="font-size:100%;">(National Grid Reference TF 762 274).<br /><br />I've just crossed the higher point of the Peddars Way: 92 m. marked by an Ordnance Survey<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMTovPY35kNDFWQ9Dtf47UR4uQY03A1HU6KYgvfCX5EbmVujWJBcK7pQ4D6GA0d3AZK5sx4O88pXbYCkqmMYb5Ytsw1qikSvXykSufVlOgTmP1T2MnkzPaHmw8rz4Mfw0Ak-K98MaAGJ4/s1600-h/PeddarsCoast+137.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 86px; height: 115px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMTovPY35kNDFWQ9Dtf47UR4uQY03A1HU6KYgvfCX5EbmVujWJBcK7pQ4D6GA0d3AZK5sx4O88pXbYCkqmMYb5Ytsw1qikSvXykSufVlOgTmP1T2MnkzPaHmw8rz4Mfw0Ak-K98MaAGJ4/s200/PeddarsCoast+137.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155717652210400930" border="0" /></a> triangulation point.The wind begins to blow: I had to put on the shirt again.<br />The emergency blanket is very useful for isolating the dampness when sitting or lay down.<br />The maps shows 11 km to the goal: so I'm further than half way.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">4,00 p.m.</span><br /><br />Last stop of the stage (National Grid Reference TF 740 330).<br />No more than 5 km to Sedgeford.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Sedgeford, 7,15 p.m.</span><br /><br />I'm resting a little lying on the bed of my chamber while waiting for dinner time (reserved at the local pub for 8,30 p.m.).<br />B&B is very nice and fine charming people are its tenants: Mr. and Mrs. Frost (but not cold at all). Typical English house with a lot of objects.<br />The pain caused by the blister makes one to walk unnaturally and this - in its turn - causes pain to the ankle. I need to take some more Rhus.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Sedgeford, 8,30 p.m.</span></span><br /><br />I'm in the local pub: very nice and typical. Unfortunately, as my place was already reserved by Mrs. Frost, I couldn't take place at the bar which I prefer, being less formal, more genuine and cheaper (not so sure of this: can't see a real separation between the two areas).<br />The village is very small and scattered; no real center.<br />Unfortunately the cell phone hasn't got any connection and the only public telephone is out of order. I wouldn't like Chantal worried about my silence.<br />This evening I've overdone it: got a whole pint instead than half one. Got a Norfolk ale: stronger the the ordinary bitter.<br />I ordered steak and ale pie: something really typical.<br />The weather has changed: very damp now; but I don't think because the rain.<br />I realizing that the beer is stronger than the ordinary bitter!<br />The waitress didn't look like native. Probably from Eastern Europe. Tall and slender. Quite nice.Sergio Baldellihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14895701664855290571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8036933995508136555.post-1834236565578358672008-01-14T10:45:00.000+01:002008-12-09T07:46:34.698+01:00Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path - Day 2nd - September 7, 2007<span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">From Watton to Castle Acre (25 km c.a)</span><br /></span><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">10,40 a.m.</span><br /><br />First break: just a little bit before Houghton Carr (National Grid Reference: TF 861 050).<br /><br />Woke up with headache and not yet over. Moreover, went to sleep very late because watched, till late, the TV documentary on Pavarotti.<br />Breakfasted without appetite because headache; didn't have beans nor sausages.<br />Earlier in the morning the sky was forecast and the air fresh; now the weather is fine.<br />This first pause (where I'm writing at the moment) comes after 2 hours walk (set out from Watton at 8,37 a.m.).<br />I've entered a freshly cut field through a broken hedge to find a quiet spot: thus far the trail has run on the very road. Only between Watton and Little Kressingham the trail was partially behind the hedge on the brim of fields and meadows. The traffic was intense and the noise disturbing.<br />From Kressingam to here one has to walk directly on a narrow road minding the motor vehicles (happily I counted no more than five).<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAUhvpO9erN9GsEGOY9w5-C4Ve7vYKMOpOJpPTK9BgC9gFeMOoyYaTHU4ouWsVBxfQYcXsPWOXo_ddY1uhg6bpC8WJWGqGpd18ZMZTUs1a2tuJwvZnSOpgfqjiITLaLCjeqfLVM4B0Mnc/s1600-h/PeddarsCoast+063.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 128px; height: 96px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAUhvpO9erN9GsEGOY9w5-C4Ve7vYKMOpOJpPTK9BgC9gFeMOoyYaTHU4ouWsVBxfQYcXsPWOXo_ddY1uhg6bpC8WJWGqGpd18ZMZTUs1a2tuJwvZnSOpgfqjiITLaLCjeqfLVM4B0Mnc/s200/PeddarsCoast+063.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155367749814730322" border="0" /></a><br />Compared to yesterday the landscape has changed; no more woods but cultivated fields (mostly cereals and hay). But there are still squirrels (crossing the road) and pheasants.<br />Just now, one is repeating its cry at the bottom of the field before me.<br />I've started to take Rhus because I'm feeling some pain like inflammation.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">1,30 p.m.</span><br /><br />Snack stop: (National Grid Reference: TF 849 085).<br /><br />Here the trail is bordered on both sides by hedges and scattered big trees.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-1Fa1KsyAHti3DSJJT0TVKwPt6WVv9_TKfnubkjpmMKqgFui-weROmkAIQKPsmXzoHW2tQAJ-Om9F1P20rg6DYOEtka0J7l6gvyMOwJAWDAgy95aV6nFx1BSylSYgnyM355XI3e2sUvA/s1600-h/PeddarsCoast+080.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 116px; height: 86px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-1Fa1KsyAHti3DSJJT0TVKwPt6WVv9_TKfnubkjpmMKqgFui-weROmkAIQKPsmXzoHW2tQAJ-Om9F1P20rg6DYOEtka0J7l6gvyMOwJAWDAgy95aV6nFx1BSylSYgnyM355XI3e2sUvA/s200/PeddarsCoast+080.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155604587196333666" border="0" /></a><br />Before North Pickenham it was so warm that I was obliged to take off the shirt and put on the sun hat.<br />The headache had decreased but now is getting fairly strong again (the food?).<br />Since this morning I've walked 14,5 km. Now I can slack down: only 9 km left to the stage (Castle Acre).<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">3,30 p.m.</span><br /><br />I've been obliged to stop again for a little rest. I was exhausted. Still 5 km to Castle Acre (National Grid Reference: TF 825 125).<br />It's really hot. Water finished. Headache almost ceased but don't know whether I will eat at the pub this evening. If I find a grocer I'll get some cucumber, cheese and pear and after eating I'll go to have a beer at the pub.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Castle Acre, evening</span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFsN3F_1Z_AiNKVvIQPxf8jbwL84LrMg1xJAeAuXcW0bQjLB_8wz6X3w-HaHt9FGdvKgVuVH6xqi0P5erukK9HNZoXdeDP1WUpVIOl2DdmrK2VdDMkM1i7l9h0NpXz_z0-qVbrscK59OY/s1600-h/PeddarsCoast+102.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 116px; height: 87px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFsN3F_1Z_AiNKVvIQPxf8jbwL84LrMg1xJAeAuXcW0bQjLB_8wz6X3w-HaHt9FGdvKgVuVH6xqi0P5erukK9HNZoXdeDP1WUpVIOl2DdmrK2VdDMkM1i7l9h0NpXz_z0-qVbrscK59OY/s200/PeddarsCoast+102.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155605381765283442" border="0" /></a><br />Nowhere for buying food so I'm going to dine in one of the two local pubs.<br />The village is nice. There is a remarkable old gate (in flintstone), a medieval church with its churchyard just facing<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs2XbyNOwnTPL4ivB3UcIsfBKn3a7smQHP8lgeqKkoeFS59pqGobB5Ma8h7Jn_6xbR_EzILsrbcxOzBVqGFpnK9cdZlu4ADOLfTczzJqMcjnAK3XmsbFgSe2YCbg63moMqxYPWvP63nak/s1600-h/PeddarsCoast+108.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 114px; height: 85px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs2XbyNOwnTPL4ivB3UcIsfBKn3a7smQHP8lgeqKkoeFS59pqGobB5Ma8h7Jn_6xbR_EzILsrbcxOzBVqGFpnK9cdZlu4ADOLfTczzJqMcjnAK3XmsbFgSe2YCbg63moMqxYPWvP63nak/s200/PeddarsCoast+108.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155606081844952706" border="0" /></a> the B&B. There are also remnants of a castle and a priory.<br />Before entering the village (by the Peddars Way) one crosses a stream through a wooden foot-bridge. The stream seems quite clean; a child was bathing in.<br /><br /><br />The B&B (Willow Cottage) - nice and clean - is located in a traditional old flintstone house.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJGEhduQuyC-qGIw2utqh_0XxyL2YyJYhfOzDZs9PvnYbpWDuTVwreSJzBV11iPoGqqsFefpN_6ahLoR7DzgqaiAD21aI_bmp5tB7eLkW4YfUX4mt9L8hcEAZ4E8zR8AeRoD0cc8D6VfA/s1600-h/PeddarsCoast+104.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 108px; height: 82px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJGEhduQuyC-qGIw2utqh_0XxyL2YyJYhfOzDZs9PvnYbpWDuTVwreSJzBV11iPoGqqsFefpN_6ahLoR7DzgqaiAD21aI_bmp5tB7eLkW4YfUX4mt9L8hcEAZ4E8zR8AeRoD0cc8D6VfA/s200/PeddarsCoast+104.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155607262960959122" border="0" /></a><br />I was afraid to not being able to arrive at Castle Acre. I got a blister to a left foot toe. Let's hope for tomorrow: 26 km stretch!<br />According to the pedometer today I've walked 25 km.<br />Tomorrow there is a pretty solitary stretch. There is also the appeal of catching - perhaps - a glimpse of the sea (The Wash).Sergio Baldellihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14895701664855290571noreply@blogger.com0